XTS 5000 upgrade.

[photoguy2]

So, I've got a M1 that I would like to upgrade to a M3. I have a couple of questions. I understand that the rules prohibit any direct discussion of certain software.

First, What I need is: Housing kit, keypad flex, rubber keypad, and display?

Second. Do I do the hardware first, and then have my friend use his "magic" that makes it a M3 codeplug wise, or the other way around? Or does it matter?

Third: I know with the older displays (C01, C02, and C03), the band matters. I heard somewhere that C04 screens work all on bands. Is that correct?

Fourth: While i'm in there, is it advised to lube the o-ring? Or just clean it, and put it back. I want to do this right, I'm trying to learn as much as get a M3.

Fifth: Is there anything I should be extra careful about? I know the flexes are very brittle, and I have the case tool. I will use a anti-static mat. I know to make sure the O-ring seats right.

Thanks. I've worked on lots of Jedi, and a 3K, I just don't want to mess up a $400 (M1) radio.

Matt

P.S. Please do not turn this into a debate about whether my friend should have certain software, the best color of housing to have (I am working on a pink HT1000 housing though ;-) ), and especially, three pages of whether you need a case tool and name calling, like my last XTS thread degenerated into.

 

[SCPD]

So, do I have this right....the rules prohibit discussion of Depot, but you're gonna go ahead and discuss Depot?

As for the hardware procedure, have you obtained the service manual? That's where I'd start....manufacturer's recommendations....then you don't have to worry about other users and their pesky opinions on o-ring lube.

Also.... lol @ "friend" - do you think people are that stupid?

 

[KG4INW]

You'll also need the rubber display locator pad, part # 7585189D01.

 

[photoguy2]

So, do I have this right....the rules prohibit discussion of Depot, but you're gonna go ahead and discuss Depot?

As for the hardware procedure, have you obtained the service manual? That's where I'd start....manufacturer's recommendations....then you don't have to worry about other users and their pesky opinions on o-ring lube.

Sorry, maybe I'm not being clear. I'm just asking about the hardware, absolutely no software. I'm just making it understood that I know there is another step, so I don't get the "Hey, you know you have to use depot to do this right?". As well, I'm just asking if there is any sort of driver affiliation that has to happen, I'm not asking for software, nor how to use it (I honestly don't care, see below). I'm not going to even do that part myself, a friend will, I'm just asking about the general process. If a mod thinks even that is too specific, they will say something.

I have the service manual, but nowhere does it talk about lubing it. Just replacing if it is damaged. I know how to read a manual, I'm asking for people's opinions. Like I said, I'm trying to learn from people who know much, much more about the xts series then me.

As for my friend, yes, people are that stupid, because I'm telling the truth. He does flashcode changes, and firmware upgrades. He is familiar with how to use the unmentionable software, I am not. I'm willing to pay him a bit, for a guarantee that I will get a radio with the correct flash and is not bricked. And, I honestly would prefer not having illegal software on my personal computers as well. For me, the $35 is said he would do it for, is not worth the possibility of a letter from Moto's legal department.

You'll also need the rubber display locator pad, part # 7585189D01.

Thanks! I forgot about that. $4, you would think that /\/\ would charge at least $25 for it ;-)

Matt

 

[N4DES]

Second. Do I do the hardware first, and then have my friend use his "magic" that makes it a M3 codeplug wise, or the other way around? Or does it matter?

It doesn't matter....you can pre-program into an M3 and change the hardware at your leisure.

 

[photoguy2]

It doesn't matter....you can pre-program into an M3 and change the hardware at your leisure.

Thanks, I know all this stuff is digital, not analog anymore. I just wanted to make sure there were no driver issues or anything like that.