XTS3000 Screen replacement.

[FFPM571]

So show me where in the XTS3000/5000 detailed service manual does it say that its OK to use a screwdriver? Is it possible yes. I see it all the time. I also have replaced a lot of "Screwdriver" fixed radio cases. Also the only time a main seal is to be lubricated is when installing a NEW seal that is pre-lubricated from the factory for use on Ruggedized radios. Since the OP is not going for a "R" rating on his radio is really a mute point. As a matter of fact I do have the correct tools. vacuum pump and equipment to work on "R' Radios. I am a professional and work for a shop that does not do inferior quality work. If you want to give out the wrong info go right ahead, It only makes you look like the hack when corrected by other professionals multiple times.

 

[hitechRadio]

Lol. Calm down Mr. professional all I suggested was that he does not absolutely need the tool. And while he has it apart to lube the seal.. Lol. Y would you say not to lube the seal? Is there a reason? I am curious since your the professional.

Did I ever say the Manual said it was OK to use a screw driver , LOL grasping at straws now , huh.

What professionals corrected me? You and Trip? Even Trip said "Technically, you can probably pry it open with a screwdriver, but MOST people end up damaging the case and the O-ring."
Key is MOST people not all. Even you, yourself said it is possible.
Is it recommended by Moto use a screw driver? of course not.

I have opened many XTS radio's without the tool and have NEVER damaged the case or seal. If the tool's had not been misplaced by other techs I would of used it. Oh by the way the tool is actually $7 dollars, the rest of the cost are the legs they put on them to run and hide when you need them.

The OP no longer has the radio and said he was going to possibly get the tool.

This thread should of been dead by now, but you had to come back in, and make your typical RR style comment about me "A guy with the name Hitec giving out incorrect info. Thats Radioreference for ya.."

Since your a professional, you should know how dirty the seal can be, right. So again, your saying not to clean and lube the seal and gasket surfaces (because he is not going for an R rating), LOL.

My ? still stands, Y should he not lube the seal? As you suggest, since I guess I am giving incorrect info on that also.

Do you not see the irony in your logic, get the tool but don't lube the seal because he's not going for an R rating.
So let me break down your Logic, Don't Half A the case , get the tool,,,,, but Half A the gasket.
Need I remind you the gasket is a very important part of the radio, R rating or not.

 

[com501]

Actually, prudence dictates that if I take apart a radio and the seal is damaged or very dirty, it gets replaced. That's why I have bins of them. For FM radios, it is automatic.

About 50% of the radios that cross my bench have tool marks on the case from improper attempts at disassembly. These always get the 'stupid' tax. Buy the right tools. Do you change your spark plugs with a crescent wrench?

 

[FFPM571]

See Com501 gets it.. R radios get a new seal regardless. Others get a good once over if they are damaged or suspect they go.

 

[hitechRadio]

The OP did not mention he was a repair shop. Obviously repairs are done differently or should be done differently than I suggested if your a repair center.
Ffpm,,,,you didn't answer my question.

 

[hitechRadio]

The funny thing is Motorola in there own detailed 3000 service manual show a picture of a screw driver opening the case. But the instruction on the 3000 says to use tool. They got there act together in the 5000 manual. Lol they must of carried over the instructions on opening the case from the HT manuals. Those actually say use recommended tool or screw driver.

 

[jhal94]

Thread: Derailed

This should be closed, OP got his answer.

 

[hitechRadio]

I agree.

 

[photoguy2]

Thread: Derailed

This should be closed, OP got his answer.

Let me clear everything up. I am not a shop. I maintain some fleets, yes, but I don't do repairs other then those fleets or local hams. The xts will be for my personal use. I will be buying the tool, I would rather spend $20, and know I'm doing it right, then to deal with a broken case. I use two screwdrivers with HT1000s because A. It works, and B. A year or so back I bought a lot of 20 HT1000 housings for $60, so if I break one it's not the end of the world.

Guys, please take your fighting to the PMs, I appreciate both sides (I'm part Dutch, and part Mexican, so I hate buying stuff I don't need ;-)), but we don't need to call each other names.

Assuming people can stay civil, I would prefer to keep the thread open. I'm still hunting for a 3k, and I still may want advice about fixing the screen.

Matt

 

[jhal94]

Let me clear everything up. I am not a shop. I maintain some fleets, yes, but I don't do repairs other then those fleets or local hams. The xts will be for my personal use. I will be buying the tool, I would rather spend $20, and know I'm doing it right, then to deal with a broken case. I use two screwdrivers with HT1000s because A. It works, and B. A year or so back I bought a lot of 20 HT1000 housings for $60, so if I break one it's not the end of the world.

Guys, please take your fighting to the PMs, I appreciate both sides (I'm part Dutch, and part Mexican, so I hate buying stuff I don't need ;-)), but we don't need to call each other names.

Assuming people can stay civil, I would prefer to keep the thread open. I'm still hunting for a 3k, and I still may want advice about fixing the screen.

Matt

If you're at all interested in a VHF XTS3000 I highly recommend MCS_Sales over on EBAY. She lists them as for parts or not working but I have gotten 3 UHF ones and all of them have worked perfectly (they also came with AES-256 Boards) it is a gamble but you will ultimatly pay less for the non-guarantee (if you feel so inclined). Here is one of the ads: Motorola XTS 3000 Model No H09KDF9PW7BN Handie Talkie FM Radio Lot 392 | eBay

I might just bid on it.

 

[FFPM571]

Actually its not a screw driver..".With the back of the radio facing
upward, insert the 6680334E07
special tool at the bottom of the
radio between the housing
assembly (2) and the two tabs on
the casting assembly (54). Gently
pry upward to free the housing
assembly from the casting. Making
sure that the antenna bushing has
cleared the hole in the control top,
carefully lift the casting assembly
clear of the housing assembly."


Motorola 6680334E07 Jedi Radio Opening Tool. Motorola 6680334E07 | RadioParts.com

 

[hitechRadio]

Looks pretty dang close to a screw driver to me. Just plastic. 33 dollar plastic screw driver.

The correct tool if going to buy it is 6685833D01 for its 3000/5000. Trip had mentioned the parts in post #5. This part looks nothing like a screw driver.

 

[hitechRadio]

Matt what band xts3k are you looking for?
A 2500 or 5000 is a good choice too. If you can find one reasonable with features flashed you want. The digital audio is much better compared to the 3000. But not enough to keep me from getting a 3k for the right price.

 

[com501]

Wow, I hate to say this, but I have been using Mdl I 3k's for target practice.... I guess its all in your outlook.

 

[photoguy2]

Wow, I hate to say this, but I have been using Mdl I 3k's for target practice.... I guess its all in your outlook.

I would have paid shipping..............


Anyway, look what the usps just handed me ;-). Yes, I flag my antennas with pink duct tape.

As for the guy who said right price, it was $160. The screen is bad, but it is flashed for IMBE. To be honest, I will use Digital less then 1% of the time, I was mainly going for mdc1200 decode, and the rugged R.

If you're at all interested in a VHF XTS3000 I highly recommend MCS_Sales over on EBAY. She lists them as for parts or not working but I have gotten 3 UHF ones and all of them have worked perfectly (they also came with AES-256 Boards) it is a gamble but you will ultimatly pay less for the non-guarantee (if you feel so inclined).

Thanks, it might just do that for a VHF one. I had seen these, but I figured they were broken.

Also if the display is just missing pixels, I've had some luck with a heat gun. Remove the lcd and apply heat to the problem areas.

Can you tell me a bit more? I was aware of this for the MT/MTS 2000s, and JTs, but not the XTS. What heat setting? How long? Which side of the screen? How close?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jhal94]

Can you tell me a bit more? I was aware of this for the MT/MTS 2000s, and JTs, but not the XTS. What heat setting? How long? Which side of the screen? How close?

The heat setting used should be from low to high, I usually do it starting from the left to the right in a checker pattern horizontal then vertical passes about 3-4 inches away. Then I test it after it has cooled down, if it is still bad I repeat on a high setting. Be careful not to do it too much though, you'll want to do it on the back side, and remove the rubber gasket.

I have had an experience where one will regress back to the way it was after a few hours but I just kept playing with it and it stopped.

Nice radio by the way, hope it works for you well.

 

[photoguy2]

The heat setting used should be from low to high, I usually do it starting from the left to the right in a checker pattern horizontal then vertical passes about 3-4 inches away. Then I test it after it has cooled down, if it is still bad I repeat on a high setting. Be careful not to do it too much though, you'll want to do it on the back side, and remove the rubber gasket.

I have had an experience where one will regress back to the way it was after a few hours but I just kept playing with it and it stopped.

Nice radio by the way, hope it works for you well.

Great, thanks. Once the case tool gets here I will give it a try.

Is there a way to test it without re-assembling the whole radio? The power/volume knob is part of the case/flex isn't it?

 

[jhal94]

Great, thanks. Once the case tool gets here I will give it a try.

Is there a way to test it without re-assembling the whole radio? The power/volume knob is part of the case/flex isn't it?

I usually just snap on the screen to the connector and connect the housing to the unit. I don't normally re-assemble the whole thing in case the screen isn't done. Just make sure the screen contacts are not on the inside of the little metal ribs on the clip. As I have stated earlier in the thread.

 

[photoguy2]

Which side of the screen should I be heating? Actual screen, or circuit board? Also, heating made some parts better, but some worse. Ideas?

A I trying to heat the screen, or one of the flexes?

If someone knows, I can't eat, I have xts and associated repairs tools covering my kitchen table ;-)

Matt


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[jhal94]

You heat the circuit board side, and no try to avoid the solder and the flex. As far as some parts being worse, you'll just have to play with it a little. It may regress or completely screw up (mine turned into black boxes on the entire screen...I just repeated the process and it went back to normal.) Just don't heat it too much or the solder may liquefy which would be bad. Also try to wait till it is cool before moving it.