So I just ordered 40 feet of LMR ultra flex from the Antenna farm will PL259's. I am a avid user of quality silicone dielectric compound in all my sat connections. Should I still fill the connector to the antenna with it? I will be putting out 200 watt max on usb. Heat shrink adhesive on the outside, still use dielectric on the inside? Siro gp 5/8 antenna 30 feet up.
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Connector question, well really a sealing question
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I've tested dielectric grease stuff called "Stuff" in F type connectors for the satellite industry and over time it dries out and looses some of its protective properties. You can easily weatherproof any coax connector that will last for many years with just a good quality electrical tape like Scotch 33+. Use three to four layers that go a few inches past the connector on either side and that's fine for most people.
For a commercial install I would use the Andrew Heliax method which puts a single layer of Scotch 33+ over the connection, then a layer of butyl rubber sticky sheet goo, then a couple of layers of a thick electrical tape. I've taken apart this type of connection after 30+ years and they always look brand new.
For a commercial install I would use the Andrew Heliax method which puts a single layer of Scotch 33+ over the connection, then a layer of butyl rubber sticky sheet goo, then a couple of layers of a thick electrical tape. I've taken apart this type of connection after 30+ years and they always look brand new.
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I know I am a rhino. In a situation similar to yours years ago I would use a product called coax-seal. I personally still acknowledge the effectiveness of this product but in your situation I understand the advanced options.
Just something to think about. People complained about the gooiness and the finality, but if you wrap your connection in electrical tape first, or the tape of your choice and then apply and mold the product you can easily remove it at will. food for thought.
Just something to think about. People complained about the gooiness and the finality, but if you wrap your connection in electrical tape first, or the tape of your choice and then apply and mold the product you can easily remove it at will. food for thought.
well the outside of the coax will have adhesive shrink wrap. Do I need to wrap that also. should I put automotive grade dielectric in the connector? I work with 5 volt milliamp connections all day long . I am worried about 200 watts.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
If you ordered the coaxial cable with the heat shrink, that just goes over the crimp part, it does not waterproof the connector.
You absolutely need to wrap the connection outside if you want it to last.
Don't put anything in the connector, it's not necessary.
200 watts isn't going to be an issue. Just seal it up as prcguy said above and you'll be fine. Skip the goop inside.
The dielectric grease won't magically allow the connectors to handle more power, it just displaces moisture for awhile. I would not bother with that stuff and I mentioned testing it, which was for the largest direct to home satellite company in the US and I rejected its use within the company. A connector on a Sirio antenna and on your LMR400 type cable should handle a couple thousand watts at 27MHz with no problem.
If you wrap the connection in several layers of Scotch 33+ the connections will probably live longer than you will. If you wrap per Andrew Heliax specs the connections will be good well after the antenna has corroded to dust. Using just one layer of adhesive shrink wrap will leak at some point and several layers of Scotch 33+ is better. I've been doing this for over 50yrs and have seen what works and what doesn't and also what is allowed and not allowed in commercial installations.
If you wrap the connection in several layers of Scotch 33+ the connections will probably live longer than you will. If you wrap per Andrew Heliax specs the connections will be good well after the antenna has corroded to dust. Using just one layer of adhesive shrink wrap will leak at some point and several layers of Scotch 33+ is better. I've been doing this for over 50yrs and have seen what works and what doesn't and also what is allowed and not allowed in commercial installations.
Got it thank you.
I might add, if you go the tape route don't end the job by pulling on the tape and tearing it. Instead stretch it over the last point where it will end then cut it with scissors or a sharp knife then gently stretch the tape end and stick it down. If you pull and tear the tape off it will not stick well and may come loose at the end over time.
slowmover
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Mine is all big truck mobile:
I’ve tried the fill-connectors method (DOW 33 or STUF) on the mobile antennas I run on big trucks and was not impressed after 100k miles just due to the mess involved in moving the entire radio system from one truck to another.
I’ve gone to the multi-layer “taped” approach and, per the quote, have wound up both slicing the end and installing a zip tie over that end.
Removal of the whole with a razor-blade knife hooked underneath and carefully wielded with a long single slice now makes this method my favorite. (After snipping zip tie with dykes cutter)
Gerber EAB
About 300k miles of 60-70/mph winds, bugs, gravel, rain, ice, salt and pressure-washes seems to have proved out the taped approach. (Scissors trim any ragged ends under zip ties). Each install has been about a year or 100k miles.
After a year it no longer looks very good on the outside, but the interior is pristine.
— I’ve used both self-fusing silicone tape under Scotch 88 or I’ve used 3M Temflex under Scotch 33. Both have worked. (The latter is more difficult to use working overhead).
I’m at three (3) of these per side, so six (6) total to install antennas.
I’ve also less successfully used many layers of 33/88 electrical tape but the heat performance (alone) makes it an undesirable method. It won’t stay in place by itself.
I started many years back using Coax Seal, but it’s hell to clean-up afterwards.
https://static.dxengineering.com/pdf/weatherproofingcoax-techtip.pdf
They sell this as a kit, also.
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