Grounding

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jazzboypro

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Believe me, I'm in the same boat. Radio room? 2nd floor, back of the house. Where's the ground rod? Frickin' front of the house.

My operating position is in the basement front of the house. I'm in the middle of the house length wise. The antenna is at one end of the house and the ground rod is at the other end of the house some 45 feet away. The coax will enter the house in the basement also in the middle length wise but in the back of the house. That puts the coax entry point and my operating position around 24 feet away from the ground round. If i was following the guidelines, the antenna would be an inch away from the powerline and the radios would be inches away from the utility panel.
 

mmckenna

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There's someone name KF5LJW over on the QRZ forums who insists on not installing more ground rods and only using the one original ground rod at the house, thus the phrase "single-point grounding system".

Just because someone is an amateur radio operator doesn't make them knowledgable. Remember, 70% passing grade on a 35 question multiple choice test. It's not hard.

It's easy to pull up the Motorola R56 standards. That is what is commonly used as a guide for commercial installations. If it was a faulty design, we'd know.
 

jazzboypro

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Just because someone is an amateur radio operator doesn't make them knowledgable. Remember, 70% passing grade on a 35 question multiple choice test. It's not hard.

It's easy to pull up the Motorola R56 standards. That is what is commonly used as a guide for commercial installations. If it was a faulty design, we'd know.

I agree with you. I would gladly abide by that code but it is just not possible and i suspect that it is the case for the majority of operators.
 

mmckenna

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I wander how many amateur radio operators can actually do it that way.

Many don't. They often are lucky and don't have issues. They think that luck means they did things right, and will quickly tell others to not ground their equipment. Confusing luck with skill/knowledge usually doesn't pan out.

Like I've said achieving ideal ground system is next to impossible unless the house has been design and built with that in mind.

Not impossible. It is just going to take some work. That work will usually pay off by a better performing station. Proper grounding isn't just about lightning protection. Done right, it can also reduce noise.

The question is is a less than ideal ground better than no ground at all or would it be more dangerous than no ground at all.

In my opinion, that's sort of like playing Russian Roulette. Is it better to play with .357 or .44? If your luck runs out, it's going to hurt.


My operating position is in the basement front of the house. I'm in the middle of the house length wise. The antenna is at one end of the house and the ground rod is at the other end of the house some 45 feet away. The coax will enter the house in the basement also in the middle length wise but in the back of the house. That puts the coax entry point and my operating position around 24 feet away from the ground round. If i was following the guidelines, the antenna would be an inch away from the powerline and the radios would be inches away from the utility panel.

There's nothing impossible about this, and don't move your antenna over to where the utility entrance is.

You run in at least one ground rod directly below the antenna. Ground the antenna and support to that.
That ground rod needs to be bonded to the house electrical ground. 45 feet of 6 Gauge wire isn't cheap, but it's not horribly expensive, either. Bond the two rods together.
Install a Polyphaser where the coax enters the home. Ground that.
 

jazzboypro

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There's nothing impossible about this, and don't move your antenna over to where the utility entrance is.

You run in at least one ground rod directly below the antenna. Ground the antenna and support to that.
That ground rod needs to be bonded to the house electrical ground. 45 feet of 6 Gauge wire isn't cheap, but it's not horribly expensive, either. Bond the two rods together.
Install a Polyphaser where the coax enters the home. Ground that.

I was not planning on moving the antenna close to the powerline i was just pointing out that at my location It is not possible to be close to the ground rod and away of the power line, I'm either close to both or away from both and it is probably the case for most of us and that make applying the NEC exactly as they say is extremely difficult to say the least . I have of course chosen to be away from both for obvious reasons. What you are suggesting brings a few questions

  1. When you say to ground the antenna i assume you mean to attach the ground wire to the part of the antenna that is connected to the braid of the coax ?
  2. When you say to ground the Polyphaser i guess i put another ground rod at that location and i also bind that rod to the house electrical ground ?
  3. If number 2 is true it means that i will have 2 ground rods to bind to the house electrical ground. Should i be using a single ground wire to bind the 2 rods to the electrical ground ?
  4. What do i do with the ground post on the radio ? i can bind them to the main electrical ground but again it would take a long wire.
At any rate the binding point of the two rods and the electrical ground won't be at the main ground rod (located underground) but to something leading to it. I will do the best i can but bending the ground wires is very likely to happen. This is what it would look like.

1615951173036.png
 

mmckenna

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I was not planning on moving the antenna close to the powerline i was just pointing out that at my location It is not possible to be close to the ground rod and away of the power line, I'm either close to both or away from both and it is probably the case for most of us and that make applying the NEC exactly as they say is extremely difficult to say the least.

Got it. This is why sometimes it's a good idea to hire a professional. They may be able to look at your house and find an easier/better way to do this. But then again, most electricians are not radio guys. They look at just the AC safety ground for the house and may not understand antennas.

I have of course chosen to be away from both for obvious reasons. What you are suggesting brings a few questions

When you say to ground the antenna i assume you mean to attach the ground wire to the part of the antenna that is connected to the braid of the coax ?

Grounding the mast would be suggested. The antenna mount should clamp to the mast and be grounded through that. That part should cover your local code requirements. Usually at a commercial site, they'll ground the coaxial cable shield at multiple points along the tower. Usually at the top near the antenna, and at least at the tower base. If it's a long run, there will be multiple ground points along the length of the tower. Idea is to keep all the grounds at equal potential so the maximum amount of metal can get the energy to ground. That's usually overkill for a basic install like yours, and not required by the NEC.

And there's a big difference between a large commercial site and how they are grounded and a hobby/home install. A really big commercial/cellular/broadcast site can take direct lightning hits and everything keeps running (usually) at a home installation, a direct hit is going to do damage. It's just too costly to design a home and antenna system to survive direct strikes. Your goal is to limit the amount of damage and keep people from getting hurt.

When you say to ground the Polyphaser i guess i put another ground rod at that location and i also bind that rod to the house electrical ground ?

Ideally, yes. But another option might be (if you can) to run the coax into the house closer to the antenna. Not sure if your basement would allow that. What the Polyphaser device does is to protect the center conductor of the coax and give energy at way to get to ground.

If number 2 is true it means that i will have 2 ground rods to bind to the house electrical ground. Should i be using a single ground wire to bind the 2 rods to the electrical ground ?

Ideally? Yes. A continuous run of heavy gauge wire would be the way to go.
At a big commercial site, the grounds are usually set up in a ring that circle the building. Many ground rods would be put in along that ring. Individual parts of the radio systems, antennas, towers, etc. would all get attached to the ring.

But this is getting way out there for a hobby. I know that most of us have limited budgets for our home stuff, so do according to what you can. Biggest goal is to keep the humans safe. Trying to protect from a direct lightning strike probably isn't going to happen, and you'd end up spending a lot of money trying to achieve that. So don't get hung up on this stuff too much, and don't make it too difficult on your self. My posts were intended to help you understand the ideal setup. Not all of us can achieve that sort of installation.

What do i do with the ground post on the radio ? i can bind them to the main electrical ground but again it would take a long wire.

Again, going back to a commercial install, you'd have something like this mounted in your radio shack. There would be a heavy gauge wire from this to your ground ring. You'd ground your radios to this.


But again, that's an expensive option, so there are other ways to do this. The old ARRL Amateur Radio Handbook suggested mounting a length of 1/2" copper pipe and using hose clamps to attach your ground wires. Ground that to your ground system. Ideally, yes, to the electrical entrance ground. Remember, the goal is to keep all the grounding points at the exact same potential.


At any rate the binding point of the two rods and the electrical ground won't be at the main ground rod (located underground) but to something leading to it. I will do the best i can but bending the ground wires is very likely to happen. This is what it would look like.

So, yeah, that'll work.
The gentle bends in the ground wire is to keep energy from a direct or very nearby strike from hopping off and finding a faster path to ground. But then again, that's way overbuilding this.

Like was said above, it's difficult to design a system that will protect against a direct strike to a residence. It's expensive and hard to do after the home is built. For hobby use, it's overkill. Again the idea behind the National Electric Code is to keep the humans safe. That should be your goal. Proper grounding can also lower noise on your radios.

The challenge is making sure everything is bonded and at the same potential. That's where the multiple ground rods come in, long copper wire runs, and all the connections.

Since this is a hobby site, you should also keep in mind that while many of us do this radio stuff for a living, we can't really cover all the bases. There variables involved and code differences. That why talking to a local electrician is a really good idea. Some stranger on a computer in California isn't going to know the specifics for your area. We can't be experts from across the continent when we can't see your install. Best we can do is make suggestions.

Like I said, goal is to keep everyone safe. Always.
 

jazzboypro

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Thanks for the explanation mmckenna. I understand that i won't be protected from a direct hit and i am not trying to achieve this either, i think a direct hit is not impossible but very unlikely. The sad part is the Polyphaser. In order to use one i will have to cut the coax and install 2 connectors. i don't have the tools to do it and amateur radio shop are pretty much non existant over here. I guess i will have to buy 2 lenghts of coax with the proper connectors installed on it
 

jazzboypro

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My electric meter has a little panel with 6 screws to attach ground wires. The panel is hooked into the ground rod through a connection built in to the wall of the house. The ground rod itself is a little below the surface of the ground with a short piece of white PVC pipe around the top of the rod. It would be difficult to connect directly to the ground rod itself.

See if you have a similar type panel you could hook into with the ground wire. When I had cable service installed, they attached a grey box to the outside wall next to the electric meter. Then they hooked a short ground wire from the box to one of the six screws. Then for my antennas, I hooked my ground wire to another screw. Now I've only got 4 screws left !

Just went out this morning to check it out. Unfortunately the only panel i have access to belongs to the phone company and i don't think this is what i need. This means that the house electrical ground is not accessible from outside and ground wires will have to enter the house.
 

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Golay

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I've been reading some of these replies about the shack being at one end of the house, and the grounding rod being at the other. I don't know your specifics. I ponder why not just drive another rod in the ground on the shack end of the house and drill a hole thru the wall for the ground cable? Yeah, it creates a possible difference in potential, but it's better than not doing anything.

Like others have mentioned, I'm on the second floor also. All my coax and ground cable come out of the side of the house on the second floor. My ground cable goes down the side of the house. And I drilled a hole in the driveway next to the house and drove a ground pole down that hole.

Also when I see talk of chimney mounts, I like the share this picture. You can use aluminum angle instead of iron. It's a good idea to spread the load, and not have the strips dig into the brick and mortar.chimney straps angle iron.JPG
 
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WB9YBM

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Hello,

I will probably be using a piece of 2 inches PVC pipe as a mast and the mast will be attached to the upper part of a brick chimney.

1- Since the mast is non conductive i assume there is no reason to ground it ?
2- It is my understanding that the coax (braid) should be grounded at the point where it enters the house and an 8-10 feet ground rod should be used. Because of the type of soil i have (lots of rocks) i don't think it will be possible to use such a long ground rod what is the impact of using shorter rods ?

3- I have read that the ground rod used for the coax (and the one used for the mast if any)should be bound to the main electric service ground. I have no clue where that ground is, what happens if the ground rod is not bound to the main electric service ground ?

4- As far as the radios are concerned, the ground posts of my 2 radios are attached together to the cold water pipe. Is this sufficient ?

Certain types (maybe all) PVC degrade/deteriorate when exposed to UV from the sun, so you might want to check the type you want to buy.

On question #1: you're right.

on question #2: the whole idea (as I understand it and I could be wrong) is to have a ground rod long (i.e. deep) enough to reach moist (i.e. conductive) soil; during a drought the shorter ground rods may not be able to reach.

question #3: this sounds like something determined by local ordinances.

question #4: sounds good to me.
 

jazzboypro

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I've been reading some of these replies about the shack being at one end of the house, and the grounding rod being at the other. I don't know your specifics. I ponder why not just drive another rod in the ground on the shack end of the house and drill a hole thru the wall for the ground cable? Yeah, it creates a possible difference in potential, but it's better than not doing anything.

Like others have mentioned, I'm on the second floor also. All my coax and ground cable come out of the side of the house on the second floor. My ground cable goes down the side of the house. And I drilled a hole in the driveway next to the house and drove a ground pole down that hole.

Also when I see talk of chimney mounts, I like the share this picture. You can use aluminum angle instead of iron. It's a good idea to spread the load, and not have the strips dig into the brick and mortar.View attachment 100658

I like your idea about the chimney. As for drilling holes thru the wall i would like to avoid it as much as possible and as I've mentioned before the soil at my house contains a lot or rocks and i don't know it it would be easy to drive a ground rod in
 

KA9MGC

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A timely thread for me. I'm building my station up after a long hiatus. This time I installed a single point ground panel and have 4 Alpha Delta lightning arrestors in the panel. The panel is mounted within 3 feet of the electric service, so ground the panel to the service ground rod will be fairly simple.

I'll have any antenna coax enter through the panel, then go through the crawl space to the opposite end of my home where the radios are. The ground for everything will go through the same path out to the panel then to the service ground rod.

I have an 8' rod I was going to drive, but since everything is pretty close there is no need to drive it.

I'll ground antenna masts to the same point to cover all of the bases. In the past, I did what most hams do and drove a ground rod with a AD arrestor installed on it, than another ground rod for the radios. Apparently the NEC code takes a dim view of this practice, so I thought I'd do it the way they specify.

The SPGP is mounted on the wall, and I just installed a ZS6BKW in a tree sloping down to a 20' mast. No coax connected yet, and I still need to 'tweak' the height to get above some branches.

This subject was covered in a big way on eHam a while back, and lots of good info was posted and referred to along the way.

Lots of arguing too, but that's human nature it seems. :)
 

prcguy

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How old is the house and/or the electrical panel? Mine was probably updated in the early 70s and last year I measured the ground resistance around 14-15 ohms. I pulled the old 8ft X 5/8in ground rod and replaced with a new 10ft by 3/4in rod and got down to sub 5 ohm range. I also upsized the original ground wire that looked around 10ga with 6ga. The old rod comes out easy with some vice grips, chain and a car jack.

Since you have an ideal coax entry point near your house ground why not freshen up the ground rod?

A timely thread for me. I'm building my station up after a long hiatus. This time I installed a single point ground panel and have 4 Alpha Delta lightning arrestors in the panel. The panel is mounted within 3 feet of the electric service, so ground the panel to the service ground rod will be fairly simple.

I'll have any antenna coax enter through the panel, then go through the crawl space to the opposite end of my home where the radios are. The ground for everything will go through the same path out to the panel then to the service ground rod.

I have an 8' rod I was going to drive, but since everything is pretty close there is no need to drive it.

I'll ground antenna masts to the same point to cover all of the bases. In the past, I did what most hams do and drove a ground rod with a AD arrestor installed on it, than another ground rod for the radios. Apparently the NEC code takes a dim view of this practice, so I thought I'd do it the way they specify.

The SPGP is mounted on the wall, and I just installed a ZS6BKW in a tree sloping down to a 20' mast. No coax connected yet, and I still need to 'tweak' the height to get above some branches.

This subject was covered in a big way on eHam a while back, and lots of good info was posted and referred to along the way.

Lots of arguing too, but that's human nature it seems. :)
 

KA9MGC

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It's worth considering. My house dates back to 1997 so it's relatively recent. I can install the rod, I have an 8' rod on hand I bought for the purpose.

It's a 200 amp service, unlike previous older homes which had fuses and 100 amps if you were lucky.
 

CanesFan95

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So how do people just drive ground rods like this? Is that some common thing like everyone just knows how to do that? How do you know you won't bump into a pipe or something?
 

prcguy

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A 10ft rod available at Homee Depot is 2ft longer and fatter, it will have better contact with the soil than replacing with the same size.

It's worth considering. My house dates back to 1997 so it's relatively recent. I can install the rod, I have an 8' rod on hand I bought for the purpose.

It's a 200 amp service, unlike previous older homes which had fuses and 100 amps if you were lucky.
 

KA9MGC

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I'll check into that. It wouldn't hurt to have another one in the area.
 

KF5LJW

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There's someone name KF5LJW over on the QRZ forums who insists on not installing more ground rods and only using the one original ground rod at the house, thus the phrase "single-point grounding system".
No sir you have misunderstood, I never said any such thing. You do not understand what Single Point Ground means. You can have as many ground rods sunk as you want. Code requires two minimum, but you can have dozens of rods. All ground electrodes are required to be bonded together to form a common Ground Electrode System. You cannot have ground rods isolated from each other as that would be extremely dangerous and what many hams do. NEC 250.94 requires Single Point Ground. Real easy to implement. Bring your coax inside where your electric service enters. That way all your services like CATV, TELCO, ISP, Electric, and your radio coaxes. Everything use the exact same ground, It is required by code and all best practices.

That absolute worse thing you can do is bring your coax inside directly to the shack. That will put you in a Ground Loop every time inviting lightning and noise inside which is exactly what most hams do.

What is sad is proper grounding and bonding is super simple. For reference you might try reading this document
 

bucks83

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Way back when I had a CB radio, I used 12 gauge copper wire from the metal mast (ground plane antenna) where the coax was also connected to a 3/4 inch 6 foot ground rod about a twenty foot run for the ground wire. I was using a dummy load one day testing my output waveform and was interfering with a guy three miles away. LOL

I agree with everything mmckenna said.
 

krokus

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So how do people just drive ground rods like this? Is that some common thing like everyone just knows how to do that? How do you know you won't bump into a pipe or something?
I just found this thread, and noticed that no one answered your question. There a number of ways, but a popular way is to use an impact driver. Here is a video, showing how someone has made a tool, that minimizes impact damage to the top of the rod.
 
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