Inexpensive mast material

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tuberadiogeek

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I was wandering if i could get by with using schedule 80 PVC or even EMT Conduit for an antenna mast? I will be putting up a multi coverage tv antenna to pull in VHF/FM frequencies on my analog scanner and eventually using it on my tv. I only plan to use maybe a 10ft mast and have it up maybe 25-30ft. I know galvanized or black pipe would be best, but i do not have that kind of money to spend.
 

fxdscon

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I was wandering if i could get by with using schedule 80 PVC or even EMT Conduit for an antenna mast? I will be putting up a multi coverage tv antenna to pull in VHF/FM frequencies on my analog scanner and eventually using it on my tv. I only plan to use maybe a 10ft mast and have it up maybe 25-30ft. I know galvanized or black pipe would be best, but i do not have that kind of money to spend.


Check here:

PVC Tube Ham Radio Tower Project - YouTube

and here:

PVC Mast - Hurricane Sandy - YouTube


.
 

mmckenna

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Absolutely!
EMT (thin wall conduit) works just fine for small antennas. One inch or one and a quarter inch works well and is stiff enough for a small TV antenna, a discone, or a small vertical. The half and three-quarters inch are too small, so I'd suggest staying away from that. Keep the total length of mast under 10 feet and you'll do fine. I wouldn't recommend using the standard conduit fittings to go beyond 10 feet unless you had guy wires. The stuff has a galvanized coating, so it will last well outside. You should be able to find a 10 foot length of 1 1/4 EMT for $7 or less. Heck, if you were local, I'd give you a piece!

If you need something stronger, IMC or rigid conduit will work also, but it's going to cost you some more money. It's heavier, so the mounting structure needs to support it, but 10 feet or shorter length and a reasonable antenna would be fine.

I've purchased "official" commercial masts for antennas at work and while the stuff is nice, it's not much different than galvanized water pipe or rigid conduit.
 

tuberadiogeek

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I figured either one would do, but i just wasnt sure. Seeing as the guy in the video used schedule 40 and it survived Sandy, i think 80 would be more then rigid enough,but seeing as the conduit will work just as well i'll use that as it is a bit cheaper. Here in Ohio we dont see super high winds but once in awhile. I was going to go with 1", in a 10' section as it is 6.19 at menards, This is the antenna i'm going to get:Digital VHF UHF FM Outdoor HDTV HD Rotor TV ANTENNA106 | eBay I believe this antenna will take care of all my needs. I likely wont be going higher then 400MHZ if that high.
 
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milkman21218

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I went to Home depot and got the top rail for chain link fence to put up a friends antenna. And it's still there over 2 years later. Cost $9.00 fot 10 ft. It is a little thicker than the conduit.
 

tuberadiogeek

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It looks like that is 9.41 at menards, i'll compare it to the conduit when the time comes. I do a majority of my hardware shopping at menards. If not there then lowes, but they are both are about the same on most things. My only other option would be a local hardware store or a crouse lumber,but they are always about 30% higher on things then lowes and menards.
 

tuberadiogeek

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I have old poles in my yard that were part of a grape orchard years ago. I was going to clamp the mast to one of them poles, which is about 7 ft high. I would mount it about 3 inches from the top. That would make my total height 17 ft. If that isnt high enough i can extend the pole by 5 or 6 ft if i have to.
 

k3cfc

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I was wandering if i could get by with using schedule 80 PVC or even EMT Conduit for an antenna mast? I will be putting up a multi coverage tv antenna to pull in VHF/FM frequencies on my analog scanner and eventually using it on my tv. I only plan to use maybe a 10ft mast and have it up maybe 25-30ft. I know galvanized or black pipe would be best, but i do not have that kind of money to spend.

If you could find an old chain link fence use a piece of pipe from this. it is strong and would be free if you look around.

K3CFC
 

tuberadiogeek

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I used to have rail and post, but i scrapped them all about a year or so ago. People around me are greedy and dont like to give stuff away,if they think they could sell it. Back then i wasnt even thinking about putting up an antenna.
 

mmckenna

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3 inches of overlap between the post and conduit is going to put a lot of strain on that connection. I'd overlap by 1 or 2 feet, and place a clamp near the bottom of the conduit and another near the top of the post. While you'll loose 2 feet of elevation, you'll have a much stronger mount. You don't want to put too much stress at that mounting point, if you do, it may fail in a stiff breeze and destroy your antenna.

While antenna elevation is important, sound installation and safety for those around is as well as the equipment is very important.
 

tuberadiogeek

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I know what youre saying, when i actually install it i will be certain it is over lapped enough to be stable. I am thinking about mounting it on another pole that is a bit higher. Possibly extending the pole with a piece of old futon rail, as the pole is rectangular and the futon rail is the same and the flat sides will match right up. That way when i add my conduit i will be in the height range that i need.
 

mmckenna

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Sounds good. I like the way you are doing this on the cheap. It's easy to go out and purchase the exact parts you need. It takes a lot more to home brew your own. You'll learn a lot from this.

Also, since you are in Ohio,
Make sure you address grounding and lightning protection. Your antenna mast should be grounded. Use as big a piece of wire as you can, 6awg or larger, and run it straight down the mast to the ground. At that point, hammer in a ground rod and use the correct attachment to connect the down lead to the ground rod.
You should also use a lightning suppressor where your coaxial cable enters the house. Do the same thing, install the protector, then run the largest piece of wire you can straight down to a ground rod. Bonus points for keeping all the ground rods connected in some way. Ideally you should also bond to the ground point at the electrical entrance.
This grounding stuff can get expensive, but it's important for your safety and for the safety of your home. Nothing will stop a lightning strike, but there are things you can do to prevent damage. Sticking a big piece of metal up in the air is asking for trouble. I've never been to Lima, but I've spent some time in Cincinatti and was impressed with the lightning shows. If you absolutely can't do this, make sure you disconnect your coaxial cable where it enters the house and pull it way back away from your home. Doing the proper grounding is the correct thing to do, but I understand money is tight, so please disconnect your coax before a storm rolls through your area. Even a nearby strike can induce thousands of volts into your antenna and feedline. Not only will all the expensive bits in your scanner go pop, you'll also risk injury, death, or fire.
 

reconrider8

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ok guys i have a quick question for you guys taht have done this with top rail. would putting 2 pieces of top rail (10'5"x2) be a stable install if i put 4 bolts in the connection 2 on 1 side and 2 on the other and kinda space them out a little bit then mushroom the ends over so they want come loose?
 

chief21

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The top rail sold around here has one end "swaged" so that the rails fit together without overlap.

I would think that using only two pieces would be strong enough, as long as you used some type of TV mast bracket to mount the 20' of rail to something nearby for stability.

John
 

K7CAR

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You can get 4ft 1.5 inch fiberglass military camo netting support poles for $1 each on e-bay or find someone local selling them and avoid the shipping costs. 10,000s selling on the surplus market every day. Work great for any VHF-UHF antenna mast. The super strong aluminum ones are going for $3 each. Bolt 4-5 of those together and you have an awesome cheap antenna support that will last many years. Google military support poles.
 

LtDoc

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What you use to support an antenna depends on it's weight, surface area (wind-load), and the typical weather for your area. I can certainly understand wanting to do that as cheaply as possible, but you have to 'balance' that against the conditions it will have to 'live' through. Over-doing it, within reason, is always a very good idea! Just because it's 'stable' on the day you put the thing up certainly doesn't mean it will stay stable during worse weather. If you plan on the worst possible conditions to start with, things tend to last longer, you know?
Chain-link fence top-rail is not designed to withstand much 'lateral' force. Stacking two sections is certainly possible (I do it too) but going any higher is a -very- 'chancy' thing without guying it. Guying two sections isn't a bad idea either for that matter. It's also a good idea to consider what the @#$ thing will land on if/when it falls.
It's always cheaper to 'over-do' things to start with than having to re-do things later...
- 'Doc
 

Rt169Radio

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LtDoc I use fence top rail so what do you mean by "Chain-link fence top-rail is not designed to withstand much 'lateral' force"
 
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