CanesFan95
Analog already is interoperable.
How do we tell if you're supposed to solder and then crimp it, or just crimp it only?
Male N Connector Center Pin: Do You Solder, Crimp, Or Both?
- Thread starter CanesFan95
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Either is fine on its own. All depends on the type of connectors you have, and of course you need to have the correct tools for the job, including the correct sized crimper/die. NEVER crimp a connector after it has been soldered. If you insist on doing both, crimp first THEN flow solder.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Depends on the type of connector. Most of the ones I use are solder center pin with a crimp on the outer jacket/shield.
I've had others that were crimp.
Usually check with the manufacturer installation instructions.
I've had others that were crimp.
Usually check with the manufacturer installation instructions.
The only time I was able to successfully crimp the center pin on an N connector was with an expensive crimper that had four probes that dug in the sides of the center pin from different angles. I never had luck with the typical crimping dies that had a hex shaped hole, it was never the right size and always deformed the center pin or bent it some.
Unless I have access to the good crimpers I always solder the center pin, which has its own problems and requires a lot of skill not to get solder blobs on the outside of the pin. I usually tin the coax center conductor, then remove as much solder as possible, then tin the inside of the center pin then remove the solder, then stick the pin half way onto the center conductor, get a little solder fillet going around the center conductor and pin junction and while hot I slide the pin all the way onto the center conductor. When cool do a pin wiggle and pull test to make sure its bonded well. You don't want any solder blobs or burrs hanging off the center pin and this method works well and the connector will sweep fine to its maximum rated frequency if all other dimensions are in check.
The only problem with the method above is with foam dielectric on LMR cables. It melts easily so you have to work quickly and let things cool down between steps. You also have to get just the right amount of solder on the center conductor and pin junction before sliding together and if you have too much it will bulge out and make a blob at the base of the pin.
Unless I have access to the good crimpers I always solder the center pin, which has its own problems and requires a lot of skill not to get solder blobs on the outside of the pin. I usually tin the coax center conductor, then remove as much solder as possible, then tin the inside of the center pin then remove the solder, then stick the pin half way onto the center conductor, get a little solder fillet going around the center conductor and pin junction and while hot I slide the pin all the way onto the center conductor. When cool do a pin wiggle and pull test to make sure its bonded well. You don't want any solder blobs or burrs hanging off the center pin and this method works well and the connector will sweep fine to its maximum rated frequency if all other dimensions are in check.
The only problem with the method above is with foam dielectric on LMR cables. It melts easily so you have to work quickly and let things cool down between steps. You also have to get just the right amount of solder on the center conductor and pin junction before sliding together and if you have too much it will bulge out and make a blob at the base of the pin.
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You should make a video of doing that!
smason
Member
Flux. Seems like a miracle it works so well.
Mildly activated rosin core flux doesn't need any extra flux and after soldering you have to remove all flux and any additional applied flux just makes the cleanup worse.
I would have to (or would want to) get a manicure then polish up my soldering station then clean my workbench, etc. Probably not going to happen anytime soon.
smason
Member
Normally yes, most decent solder doesn't need any additional flux. But my experience working with SMD, a bit of flux really works wonders. With connectors, the solder seems to magically flow up into the pin and very little hangs around on the outside.
The stuff I use doesn't need any cleanup.
The stuff I use doesn't need any cleanup.
SMD is a completely different animal and without flux the person soldering would be very sad.
CanesFan95
Analog already is interoperable.
The one I'm looking at is: https://www.theantennafarm.com/cata...oduct_info&cPath=868_879_945&products_id=3403 . It says "Clamp" and "Captivated", so, not sure if that means crimped?
eorange
♦RF Enabled Member♦
Your station sounds all fluxed up.
I had good luck soldering the center pin for a LMR400 BNC connector by tinning the LMR400 center conductor with low-temp SMD paste solder, then filling the pin about 3/4 full of solder paste, then joining two with the SMD rework heat gun. If you finesse it right, you can do it without getting any solder on the outside of the pin, and low-temp solder cuts down on dielectric melting.
For the final heating, I found a small board with a nail hole that fit the tip of the pin reasonably well, inserted the pin, heated, then poked the cable into the pin, heating until it was fully seated.
For the final heating, I found a small board with a nail hole that fit the tip of the pin reasonably well, inserted the pin, heated, then poked the cable into the pin, heating until it was fully seated.
Flux is an interesting subject, I have various bottles of but have not used any in maybe 25yrs. The last time I used it was when I had to solder some stainless steel and I have special flux that's blue color and very watery. Some people use flux too often and if you don't watch out they will flux you right up the butt connector!
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mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
CanesFan95
Analog already is interoperable.
The order just came in and now that I can see the label on the baggie, it looks like the center pin can be crimped?
If it has a solder hole in it, which it does, then its usually meant to be soldered. Some crimpable pins have solder holes but not all. I would only attempt crimping the center pin if you know you have dies that work perfectly, otherwise you will destroy the center pin.
Project25_MASTR
Millennial Graying OBT Guy
I'm with @prcguy...if your dies are correctly sized then crimping the center pin is acceptable. Often times though you'll find the batch of connectors you just received doesn't have a center pin that matches your dies (or worse, has the thicker base which can't be crimped to begin with) so you can only solder.
That being said, I prefer to run crimps if at all possible. Majority of my professional work with braided coax was using LMR 400 with N connectors and or .195" coax (RG58, LMR195, etc) with either BNC or Mini-U connectors. Occasionally I'd have a job that involved putting a Type N connector on .195" coax and that was a bit of a crapshoot with crimpable center pins. All of the LMR 400 though was using either RF Industries crimp connectors which fully function with the common .400" coax dies or LMR's EZ-400 connector which neither crimp or solder the center pin (captive finger stock like you see with 1/2" heliax).
That being said, I prefer to run crimps if at all possible. Majority of my professional work with braided coax was using LMR 400 with N connectors and or .195" coax (RG58, LMR195, etc) with either BNC or Mini-U connectors. Occasionally I'd have a job that involved putting a Type N connector on .195" coax and that was a bit of a crapshoot with crimpable center pins. All of the LMR 400 though was using either RF Industries crimp connectors which fully function with the common .400" coax dies or LMR's EZ-400 connector which neither crimp or solder the center pin (captive finger stock like you see with 1/2" heliax).
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