• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

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    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

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New guy here

BrownCow101

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2023
Messages
28
Location
Cass City Michigan
Hello, I got a cobra 29. I’m trying to hook it up to my old dodge truck right to the battery. The problem is I don’t really know where to get some good 10 gauge wire. I also am terrible at soldering outside at 30 degrees. I could use some all around general help.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
25,293
Location
United States
Hello, I got a cobra 29. I’m trying to hook it up to my old dodge truck right to the battery. The problem is I don’t really know where to get some good 10 gauge wire. I also am terrible at soldering outside at 30 degrees. I could use some all around general help.


10 gauge wire is kind of big for a stock CB. Are you planning on adding more radios? 12 or 14 gauge wire would be sufficient for a stock CB.

Don't solder connections, that makes them inflexible and leads to breakage. Use crimp connectors, and get a suitable fully cycle crimp tool if you want reliable connections:

Run the positive to the positive battery terminal. Use a fuse at the battery to protect the wire run.
Do NOT run the negative all the way to the battery. Instead, ground it near the radio to the body steel.
 

BrownCow101

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2023
Messages
28
Location
Cass City Michigan
Thank you. I’m probably going to change the wire out anyway if I can fine some higher quality that will quiet engine noise. Currently the set of wires do not even power on the radio. The radio does work in a cigarette lighter. I know I’m lacking in power because when I key down the lights dim.

For crimpers I have a heavy duty set for doing power lines. A little overkill but the wire will never come off if that’s the route to go.

My antenna is a Stryker Sr-A10 magnetic mount to the roof of my truck. On a normal day I’ll barely reach 2 miles of empty field.
 

slowmover

Active Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
2,832
Location
Fort Worth
Noise thru 12V line and antenna coax should be distinguished one from the other.

“Most” seems to be from coax (engine-running).

Heat-shrink marine grade termination's


Split-loom to cover. ATC-fuse at BATT positive.

Build a harness capable of being removed similar to OEM.

RE same subject in big trucks with relevant commentary for cars:


Detailed discussion


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