newbie needs help--PAR end fed z EF-SWL antenna

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paul_c

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I'm totally new to radio in general, but I'm doing my reading. I have an AOR AR3030 that I wish to use a PAR EF-SWL with.

I was reading the directions for the antenna (online before I purchase it), and the directions talk about Ground Configuration. There are 3 connections apparently:

"connectors #1 (SO-259 shield) and #2 (ground lead of the antenna side of the 9:1 transformer) shorted. Basically, this leaves the connection to the antenna ungrounded and the user should ground the receiver in the shack"

Are we talking about grounding with a copper wire into the ground? If I have the top of the wire up at the top of my roof, am I supposed to run copper wire all the way down to a metal rod in the ground? Is there a picture of this?

Thanks!
 

ka3jjz

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That's certainly one possibility, though I would never consider a single rod driven into the earth as much of a ground - but that's another story. If memory servies, there are other possible configurations, and you will need to try them to see which one works best in your environment. Such a long wire down to the earth might not be very efficient, and as it says in the manual, might result in additional noise pickup. Keeping that lead nice and short is the ticket - which is why the manual mentions using it as a sloper, though other configurations are possible (the manual shows this, too).

When they mention grounding the receiver in the shack, that's exactly what they mean - connecting the ground connection of the 3030 - if it has one - to a hunk of solid copper wire (some have used copper braiding stripped from old coax) then out to a rod rammed into the ground. During the winter, that might be a tough call - so I'd go with a nearby cold water pipe. Not nearly as good, but it'll likely do for now.

A good ground really takes some work - there are numerous articles on the web - including a great one by Jack Painter, which discusses this in terms of lightning protection and static discharge - that should be a must read for everyone interested in this topic. Here's the link, from our Wiki:

http://members.cox.net/pc-usa/station/grounding.htm

By the way, I understand Dale is quite helpful to folks that buy his products. An email or two wouldn't hurt, with a complete description of your proposed environment (do you have trees, outdoor mouting, up on the roof, ect.)

73s Mike
 
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paul_c

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That article regarding grounding is on my reading list for tonight. I'm just wondering how far can you run copper wire and still have it do its job sufficiently. I'm sure, the shorter, the better. But for grounding my radio, the nearest cold water pipe could be quite a few feet--and we are just wrapping the copper around the pipe? And grounding the sloping wire means running copper wire 30 feet or more down to the ground? I feel like I'm missing something here.
 

ka3jjz

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At 30 foot, the ground wire is going to start acting like it's own antenna - probably on freqs higher than 9 mhz or thereabouts. Not a good thing. You're quite right - short and sweet is the way to go.

The easiest - and simplest way I found to connecting to a cold water pipe is to use a hose clamp or similar. Remember this is a temporary lash up - you're quite right if you assume that the pipe probably winds its way around the house, and that can hurt how well it works as a ground. When I was living at home, I simply sanded off a clear spot from the garden hose spigot (lots of homes have that), and ran a copper braid to that. Worked OK. You definitely don't want to be pounding a rod and doing digging when the ground is frozen - been there, done that. Not fun.

Here is a site with a couple more articles on the subject of grounding - a bit technical, but it will give you some ideas on making a good ground. Between this, and Jack's article, you should have enough to get you thinking...

http://www.hard-core-dx.com/nordicdx/antenna/ground/index.html

73s Mike
 

paul_c

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ka3jjz said:
At 30 foot, the ground wire is going to start acting like it's own antenna - probably on freqs higher than 9 mhz or thereabouts. Not a good thing. You're quite right - short and sweet is the way to go.

The easiest - and simplest way I found to connecting to a cold water pipe is to use a hose clamp or similar. Remember this is a temporary lash up - you're quite right if you assume that the pipe probably winds its way around the house, and that can hurt how well it works as a ground. When I was living at home, I simply sanded off a clear spot from the garden hose spigot (lots of homes have that), and ran a copper braid to that. Worked OK. You definitely don't want to be pounding a rod and doing digging when the ground is frozen - been there, done that. Not fun.

Here is a site with a couple more articles on the subject of grounding - a bit technical, but it will give you some ideas on making a good ground. Between this, and Jack's article, you should have enough to get you thinking...

http://www.hard-core-dx.com/nordicdx/antenna/ground/index.html

73s Mike

Thanks, Mike. We'll see how it goes. I'm probably going to seek further help from my local clubs, too. Paul
 

gcgrotz

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The PAR instructions are also regarding whether the ground, or "cold" end of the impedance transformer from the high impedance wire is or is not connected to the coax shield or ground. If you have it hung in the air, obviously you will want that jumper in place. If you are ground mounting it you may or may not want it in place as it can affect the amount of electrical noise you will hear. It may work better connected to a separate "good" RF ground isolated from the coax shield. Trial and error applies here.

I have used this antenna both ways and in my case saw no difference. It worked very well hung up 25' high with the coax hanging from the end and the ground jumper wire connected. The only ground was at a lightning protector where it came into the house at ground level. I took it down to put up a 40 meter dipole but I want to get it back up somewhere somehow as an RX only antenna.

Read this article, linked through the antenna wiki page under MLB longwires (because that is what the PAR actually is).

http://www.wellbrook.uk.com/longwire.html

I say buy it and hang it up, do not worry about getting complicated or fancy, just get a ground on your feed-line for lightning protection. I wouldn't even worry about it if you have to use TV coax either. Just be sure to weatherproof the connector.
 
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paul_c

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gcgrotz said:
The PAR instructions are also regarding whether the ground, or "cold" end of the impedance transformer from the high impedance wire is or is not connected to the coax shield or ground. If you have it hung in the air, obviously you will want that jumper in place. If you are ground mounting it you may or may not want it in place as it can affect the amount of electrical noise you will hear. It may work better connected to a separate "good" RF ground isolated from the coax shield. Trial and error applies here.

I have used this antenna both ways and in my case saw no difference. It worked very well hung up 25' high with the coax hanging from the end and the ground jumper wire connected. The only ground was at a lightning protector where it came into the house at ground level. I took it down to put up a 40 meter dipole but I want to get it back up somewhere somehow as an RX only antenna.

Read this article, linked through the antenna wiki page under MLB longwires (because that is what the PAR actually is).


http://www.wellbrook.uk.com/longwire.html

I say buy it and hang it up, do not worry about getting complicated or fancy, just get a ground on your feed-line for lightning protection. I wouldn't even worry about it if you have to use TV coax either. Just be sure to weatherproof the connector.

Thanks, just what I was looking for. I didn't follow you completely (newbie here, but reading nonstop and trying to learn). If I understand you, can I place the "business end" with the transformer at the "lower" end of the slope, so that it is closer to the ground? To ground the coax, I can pick any place along the coax (outside of the house) and attach something to run copper wire to a grounding rod? (is this how you grounded yours?). Then the other end of the PAR (with just a plastic tip, or so it seems) can just be attached, for example, to a tree? (of course following the precautions about power lines, etc).
 

gcgrotz

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Paul: Yes, you can install the box at ground level. You can ground it there, even put down some ground radials if you can, 4 to 8, stuck in the ground by splitting it with a shovel and pushing the wire in. As long as practical too. I had mine in an inverted L about 25 ft vertical, the rest strung out back to the house. The feed point is down in the back yard, there is a ground rod there next to a shed where I connected the transformer ground. My coax comes through a conduit about 65 ft to the house where I have a metal box with surge protection inside for that antenna and also the scanner antenna on the roof. The ground from the box is tied directly to the service entrance ground about 3 ft away with #6 wire. The ground (I used 1" braid) from my 2nd floor shack goes to that point also.

I later changed the feed point by just pulling the whole 45 feet of it up into the air on the theory that the more wire in the air the better. In this config the transformer was not grounded except back via the coax shield, the only ground on the coax was 65ft away at the house. It seemed to receive better that way, and I didn't see much difference in noise levels even though I'm on a small city lot with sodium vapor streetlights only 20-25 ft away. I was worried about them.

Currently, I have a 40 meter dipole there, off center fed (sometimes called a Windom) with 44 ft toward the house and 22 ft hanging in the tree toward the alley. This was so i could get a transmitter on the air. As I look out my shack window, the center insulator is eye level from me so its not up very high due to the fact that I have exactly one tree to work with! I think the PAR worked much better receiving on lower freqs, especially AM broadcast, and I'm going to try to get it back up somewhere - maybe on the roof. The dipole works great, every morning I have a band full of broadcasters from China, India, far east, south asia etc on 40 meters just after sunrise.

Yes, sloping is perfectly fine if thats the best way available, and if you can ground the business end that would be great, just be sure to ground it somewhere as it enters the house, preferably with a lightning protector of some kind. Lacking that, I've used a double female SO-239 (Barrel adapter), with the connectors from outside and inside coax runs screwed into it, and grounded with a clamp from the hardware store like ones used for connecting a wire to a cold water pipe. Of course, weatherproofing it is required, that's why mine are in a box that keeps them dry. Like they say, experiment with the ground jumper on the box for lowest noise/best signal. When I first got the PAR, I had the transformer inside the grounding box and the wire stapled loosely to the wood fence and even that worked fairly well.

The Wellbrook article describes keeping the RF ground away from the electrical ground to reduce noise pickup that may come from the electrical service. If you don't have a lot of electrical noise (loud buzzing mostly) then that elaborate system is not necessary.
 
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paul_c

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gcgrotz said:
I later changed the feed point by just pulling the whole 45 feet of it up into the air on the theory that the more wire in the air the better. In this config the transformer was not grounded except back via the coax shield, the only ground on the coax was 65ft away at the house. It seemed to receive better that way, and I didn't see much difference in noise levels even though I'm on a small city lot with sodium vapor streetlights only 20-25 ft away. I was worried about them.

QUOTE]

Great info, thanks! I'm especially glad to see that you didn't get much extra noise when you didn't have the transformer grounded.

I'm planning on using 9913 coax, since that's what I had previously for a CB antenna (Solarcon Imax 2000). That's a lot of coax you have out there. I could use RGU8 I suppose and save a little. What are you using?
 

gcgrotz

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Hey Paul,

I'd stick with the 9913 if it is in good shape and it will reach to where you need it.

I have 75ft of new RG213 direct bury rated in the underground conduit part, purchased from cable x-perts with connectors installed, and then I have about 25ft of good quality RG8X from the metal box up to my shack. I use LMR400 on the vhf/uhf scanner antenna.

Since my work life involves dealing with 1.9 GHz systems, I have no fear of losses at HF. In your case, no transmit power to worry about, I would not worry for one second about a db or 3 loss at 30 MHz. If you were transmitting, especially low power, you might worry especially if using a beam antenna (like with CB). But for general HF reception the background noise is the limiting factor in weak signals and it will get reduced by the same amount as the signal. As they say down under, "no worry, mate".

Cable X-perts and The Wireman are good sources of cable on the web, both pre-made and bulk. Just stay away from RS cable if at all possible. I once used 100 ft of RG8 from RS to feed a 300 watt 900 MHz transmitter to a 100 watt dummy load. The cable got warmer than the load, and when the load was disconnected the SWR at the tx only increased slightly. The cable was absorbing most of the power.
 
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