• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Outdoor Junction Box

Status
Not open for further replies.

TexScan780D

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
1,212
I am looking for recommendations on an outdoor junction box to take LMR-400 from the base antenna then LMR-195 into the house to a Stridsberg MCA204M then to the scanners.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
25,296
Location
United States

You can get these in bigger sizes. I've used some 12x12 size for terminal cabinet.

Getting the cable in/out needs to be considered. Gland type conduit fittings can be had at Home Depot that will allow you to get the cable in and seal the pass through.
 

bharvey2

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
1,954
In choosing a junction box, look for something with a NEMA rating of 4 or 6 if it's geared for electrical use or something listed as IP67. These are going to be gasketed and generally fall under the water resistant category. These hold up well to rain and water washdown and if you use the proper sealing bushings, with keep the mini critters out too. They'll also hold up fairly well to UV exposure. In order to use a watertight sealing bushing you'll need to terminate your cables after passing them through the bushings. Here is an example of those connectors:

Arlington Industries 1/2 in. Nylon Connector (1-Pack) LPCG50-1 - The Home Depot

They come in different sizes to accommodate various cable diameters and can had in in both metal and plastic. Some may consider all of this overkill but I don't get a big kick out of re-doing my work. I'm anal that way.
 

TexScan780D

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
1,212

You can get these in bigger sizes. I've used some 12x12 size for terminal cabinet.

Getting the cable in/out needs to be considered. Gland type conduit fittings can be had at Home Depot that will allow you to get the cable in and seal the pass through.
What is Gland type conduit fittings?
 

bharvey2

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
1,954
What is Gland type conduit fittings?

The fittings I linked to above are gland type fittings. They are designed to either thread into threaded hubs formed into a box during manufacturing or through drilled holes that correspond to specific conduits sized holes such as 1/2", 3/4", etc. Note that these conduit holes aren't the actual diameter but relate to industry standards for conduit. e.g 1/2" conduit uses a 7/8" diameter hole, 3/4" conduits uses a 1 1/8" diameter hole, etc. If a hole is drilled or punched into a box in the field (during installation) then a lock nut is used on the inside of the box to hold it in place.
 

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
25,296
Location
United States
What is Gland type conduit fittings?



There are tons of different versions, these are just two examples that were easy to get.
 

TexScan780D

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
1,212


There are tons of different versions, these are just two examples that were easy to get.
Thank you. What size for LMR-400?
 

cavmedic

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
790
Location
Pottstown Pa
This is overkill for most, but I used a MDU box that cable companies use on apartment buildings
 

Attachments

  • 3879E8F1-77D8-4DDE-BBA9-F4DDEDC80DB3.jpeg
    3879E8F1-77D8-4DDE-BBA9-F4DDEDC80DB3.jpeg
    96.2 KB · Views: 48
  • 4712F109-2AD7-40F2-99B5-BC20D5993DB3.jpeg
    4712F109-2AD7-40F2-99B5-BC20D5993DB3.jpeg
    151.4 KB · Views: 47

mmckenna

I ♥ Ø
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
25,296
Location
United States
I’ve often wanted to find a traffic light controller box to mount on the side of the house, but no one ever wants to give one up.

Railroad signal cabinets are a good choice, if you can find them.

We have some traffic light controller style boxes at work for phone/network service in locations where a larger installation isn't possible. They've worked really well, but they are not cheap.

I think for hobby use, the plastic 4R NEMA boxes are a good start.
 

cavmedic

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
790
Location
Pottstown Pa
Railroad signal cabinets are a good choice, if you can find them.

We have some traffic light controller style boxes at work for phone/network service in locations where a larger installation isn't possible. They've worked really well, but they are not cheap.

I think for hobby use, the plastic 4R NEMA boxes are a good start.

Yeah or even a smaller cable company Dmarc box as well along with a ground block and some rg-6 would be a great proper bond prior to entry into the house. For anyone who reads through this thread , IF you use rg6 and a ground block outside , MAKE SURE YOU LABEL IT ACCORDINGLY, because if you get some jackass cable guy ( I work with a few) they will cut and wonder why their meters aren't picking up any signal except ingress on the antenna feed side .............................
 

bharvey2

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
1,954
Can I drill a hole in back of the box and align the hole to the hole going into the house?

That can be done but you could end up with a water leak into either the box or the house or both. You might get by with a decent seal if the two surfaces mate fairly well before applying sealant.
 

phask

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Dec 19, 2002
Messages
3,745
Location
zanesville
How important is it really to be watertight? All the cable connections are designed for outdoor installation. While I am aware it is indeed a "help", but then there is also the fact that any intrusion will now result in a high humidity condition that may never dry.

FWIW - I have all my wall intrusions behind some vinyl siding that I can remove with a few screws. I designed it primarily for aesthetics, but it also keeps everything pretty dry. I had a pretty ugly 2x3 foot section where cable,antenna, etc. were all entering. I had new siding installed and using J-channel and pieces made a pretty good cover.

I did look at boxes, but anything I found would have been large and intrusive.
 

bharvey2

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
1,954
Fair point. I'd be more concerned with keeping the house's envelope sealed up than that of the box but as long as I'm trying to keep the weather out, I'd deal with the box too. Having a puddle in the bottom of a junction box kinda irks me.
 

phask

Member
Premium Subscriber
Joined
Dec 19, 2002
Messages
3,745
Location
zanesville
Fair point. I'd be more concerned with keeping the house's envelope sealed up than that of the box but as long as I'm trying to keep the weather out, I'd deal with the box too. Having a puddle in the bottom of a junction box kinda irks me.

I have 1 or maybe 2 holes, all well sealed in and out. Having an unfinished basement helps.

Not just a puddle but a few drops evaporating and condensing, over and over. Heck, the cable co. boxes are far from wx proof. In my area, they don't even use a box anymore. That goes for Spectrum and Dish.
 

bharvey2

Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
1,954
I have 1 or maybe 2 holes, all well sealed in and out. Having an unfinished basement helps.

Not just a puddle but a few drops evaporating and condensing, over and over. Heck, the cable co. boxes are far from wx proof. In my area, they don't even use a box anymore. That goes for Spectrum and Dish.


Condensation is to be expected unless you go to pretty elaborate lengths to fight it. (Like sealed and heated boxes) but that just doesn't happen in residential installs. If possible, I try to run any cables through exterior walls where there is some protection in place already like under eaves, etc. so that even if my weathersealing efforts fail, there is some innate protection.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top