President Washington. No Modulation.

[jcrmadden]

I was gonna ask please, when this gets resolved, can you let us know what happened? For some reason I'm slightly drawn to that radio (even with a house full of stuff that does 10-11 meters) and I'm just curious as to the outcome of this. What happened to you can happen to anyone (bad jumper) and I'm just curious how all this will be handled. I've had a "lot" of jumpers go bad in my life (since 1971) and fortunately have had only one damage to equipment thus far anyway.

Finally got the Washington on a powered peak meter and it's swinging just fine. The only problem this radio has is the jar head ahold of the mic

 

[slowmover]

Seen this one?

.

 

[jcrmadden]

Sure did, and I've given it serious consideration. I love the look and function of it, but I'm not convinced I can pull it off

 

[slowmover]

Sure did, and I've given it serious consideration. I love the look and function of it, but I'm not convinced I can pull it off

1). There’s an optional brace which increases capacity from sorta 8-lbs to 17-lbs. I haven’t yet gone thru their catalog or emailed them, but I’d want to use the L-ML to mount my GARMIN 760 if it’s possible.

To that end, I’d want to raise the height of the assembly such that the GPS was just below the top of the dash, and the radio below it (not blocking HVAC vents, etc).

2). @billdean is going with, (paraphrased) Washington has better RX (somewhat), than QT60. From experience I’d want any radio mounted such that quick glance gives me S-Meter data to differentiate between Local and Skip.

— Unlike your situation neither of us have passengers (it appears) which makes this easier.

I’m closer to removing airbags and that’s the concern others who believe that story would have over my idea of taller mount adjustment.

A). Are you finding Washington to be better in RX? (You had an earlier quote on a record distance).

B). Are you having to adjust anything past VOL on a daily basis?

C). Does view of S-Meter make any difference for you?

. . now that moduration is workin’

.

 

[billdean]

1). There’s an optional brace which increases capacity from sorta 8-lbs to 17-lbs. I haven’t yet gone thru their catalog or emailed them, but I’d want to use the L-ML to mount my GARMIN 760 if it’s possible.

To that end, I’d want to raise the height of the assembly such that the GPS was just below the top of the dash, and the radio below it (not blocking HVAC vents, etc).

2). @billdean is going with, (paraphrased) Washington has better RX (somewhat), than QT60. From experience I’d want any radio mounted such that quick glance gives me S-Meter data to differentiate between Local and Skip.

— Unlike your situation neither of us have passengers (it appears) which makes this easier.

I’m closer to removing airbags and that’s the concern others who believe that story would have over my idea of taller mount adjustment.

A). Are you finding Washington to be better in RX? (You had an earlier quote on a record distance).

B). Are you having to adjust anything past VOL on a daily basis?

C). Does view of S-Meter make any difference for you?

. . now that moduration is workin’

.

I have looked through the online catalog and have not found that brace. I have e-mailed them twice with know response. Next I will try calling them.

The S-meter is visible depending on the color you choose. My eyes seem to prefer green though it doesn't go well my f-350 light very well.

The RX I feel is better but is a little more static sound. It does pic up more FR in the city. I mostly control that with RF Gain and or NRC. I probably need to put on some kind of choke on it.

 

[jcrmadden]

Unlike your situation neither of us have passengers (it appears) which makes this easier.

Herein lies the problem. The Tacoma is just too tight. There doesn't seem to be a position that wouldn't block something.

To clear the console mounted shifter it would have to be pretty far into the passenger area, which isn't roomy to begin with. Plus, it would partially block the glovebox; a non-starter for me.

I would definitely prefer having the radio mounted elsewhere. Such that the controls were more accessible, and the screen was more glance-able-at-able.

I may try to mock up a homebrew mount someday, but it's pretty far down the priority list. The need for a complete reroute of DC, coax, and audio cables makes it a hassle. The need to relocate the accompanying KLF2 and CMC is another issue entirely. The Taco Truck makes too much RFI to do without either one.

The other option is modifications to the area between the console and dash. There's room enough for the radio, and its accessories could still be tucked away. But it would require removing the built-in wireless charger (that I've never used), and more importantly, the prayer that the fleet manager never found out that I sawed a hole in his truck.

A). Are you finding Washington to be better in RX? (You had an earlier quote on a record distance).

More sensitive RX for sure, but I'm also running more aggressive noise filtering on the incoming side. So no net gain in range, but cleaner audio coming in from local traffic.

B). Are you having to adjust anything past VOL on a daily basis?

No. Partly because I have settled on the settings, and partly because I'm not in a good position to make changes while mobile. With the radio mounted facing forward like it is now, I would have to take my eyes fully off the road to make adjustments.

There have been occasions where backing the RF gain down a peg or two would have been beneficial, but it's a two handed operation. No hands on the wheel and no eyes on the road is a special kind of recipe.

Eventually I'll have a copilot that can navigate my radio settings, but he's still a bit too young to be reliable in that department. He has definitely mastered the PTT though, and he's got the lingo down pat.

C). Does view of S-Meter make any difference for you?

Rarely. I rely heavily on dialects honestly (everyone here sounds like a hillbilly to some degree). Conversations with known landmarks or familiar colloquialisms rounds it out pretty well (one benefit of a small but well traveled AO).

One exception is when someone blanks my RX and there's no audio. I always assume it's someone tinkering with their settings and I look at the meter so I can tell them where they're coming in at. If they blank the RX again with no audio I let them know as much...

"Hey 'ol buddy, you're making five pounds of sausage out here at [insert location], but if you're yakin' I can't hear a word you're sayin'."

The S-meter is visible depending on the color you choose. My eyes seem to prefer green though it doesn't go well my f-350 light very well.

I got used to the orange on my QT60. On the Washington it has a good contrast during the day, but it's a bit too bright at night, and I'm not going to change color or brightness settings constantly.

I ran the green for a while too, but like you I didn't particularly care for the lighting mismatch. I eventually realized that I don't look at the screen often enough for it to matter anyway, and set it to blue like everything else in my truck.

The RX I feel is better but is a little more static sound. It does pic up more FR in the city. I mostly control that with RF Gain and or NRC. I probably need to put on some kind of choke on it.

Having a choke at both the back of the radio and at the antenna feed point was a game changer for me. This truck has an unholy amount of RFI. The worst being the PWM control for the fuel pump and whatever controls the automatic braking. The later would almost completely blank my receiver with this high pitched warble sound. It still gets through a little bit, but it is a fraction of the problem it used to be.

 

[jcrmadden]

 

[niceguy71]

View attachment 188583View attachment 188582

I know it's not your truck...... but I'd have the cubby hole at the bottom of the dash cut into pieces by now and have the Washington sitting in there smiling back at me.... with all the wires nicely hidden under the console

 

[jcrmadden]

I know it's not your truck...... but I'd have the cubby hole at the bottom of the dash cut into pieces by now and have the Washington sitting in there smiling back at me.... with all the wires nicely hidden under the console

Its the most logical place for sure, but that cubby is the wireless charger I mentioned... I'm sure someone at you tube university has posted how to get that out cleanly... I will investigate

 

[billdean]

View attachment 188583View attachment 188582

That console shifter does present a problem along with the glove box I see. That little cubby hole may work fine if you can keep the radio cool in there. It is kind of a compact car design for sure. Lido does make a cup holder mount that may work in conjunction with that cubby hole if you a willing to give that up. You may have to offset the mount a little though. I am looking into a choke for mine now.

 

[billdean]

This is what I was thinking of. I can't really tell how much room is in the cubby hole. The cup holder has same mount as the one on my radio. Lido Cup Holder Mount The Heavy Duty Mount

 

[slowmover]

Herein lies the problem. The Tacoma is just too tight. There doesn't seem to be a position that wouldn't block something.

To clear the console mounted shifter it would have to be pretty far into the passenger area, which isn't roomy to begin with. Plus, it would partially block the glovebox; a non-starter for me.

I would definitely prefer having the radio mounted elsewhere. Such that the controls were more accessible, and the screen was more glance-able-at-able.

I may try to mock up a homebrew mount someday, but it's pretty far down the priority list. The need for a complete reroute of DC, coax, and audio cables makes it a hassle. The need to relocate the accompanying KLF2 and CMC is another issue entirely. The Taco Truck makes too much RFI to do without either one.

The other option is modifications to the area between the console and dash. There's room enough for the radio, and its accessories could still be tucked away. But it would require removing the built-in wireless charger (that I've never used), and more importantly, the prayer that the fleet manager never found out that I sawed a hole in his truck.


More sensitive RX for sure, but I'm also running more aggressive noise filtering on the incoming side. So no net gain in range, but cleaner audio coming in from local traffic.


No. Partly because I have settled on the settings, and partly because I'm not in a good position to make changes while mobile. With the radio mounted facing forward like it is now, I would have to take my eyes fully off the road to make adjustments.

There have been occasions where backing the RF gain down a peg or two would have been beneficial, but it's a two handed operation. No hands on the wheel and no eyes on the road is a special kind of recipe.

Eventually I'll have a copilot that can navigate my radio settings, but he's still a bit too young to be reliable in that department. He has definitely mastered the PTT though, and he's got the lingo down pat.


Rarely. I rely heavily on dialects honestly (everyone here sounds like a hillbilly to some degree). Conversations with known landmarks or familiar colloquialisms rounds it out pretty well (one benefit of a small but well traveled AO).

One exception is when someone blanks my RX and there's no audio. I always assume it's someone tinkering with their settings and I look at the meter so I can tell them where they're coming in at. If they blank the RX again with no audio I let them know as much...

"Hey 'ol buddy, you're making five pounds of sausage out here at [insert location], but if you're yakin' I can't hear a word you're sayin'."

I got used to the orange on my QT60. On the Washington it has a good contrast during the day, but it's a bit too bright at night, and I'm not going to change color or brightness settings constantly.

I ran the green for a while too, but like you I didn't particularly care for the lighting mismatch. I eventually realized that I don't look at the screen often enough for it to matter anyway, and set it to blue like everything else in my truck.


Having a choke at both the back of the radio and at the antenna feed point was a game changer for me. This truck has an unholy amount of RFI. The worst being the PWM control for the fuel pump and whatever controls the automatic braking. The later would almost completely blank my receiver with this high pitched warble sound. It still gets through a little bit, but it is a fraction of the problem it used to be.

Thanks. Great set of descriptions given number of hour's-per-week use.

Pleased to hear your experience reinforced regarding “treat coax at both ends”. And about DC power cable.

Clean VHF/CB radio installs

Curious to see any clean looking VHF and or CB mounts in the 3rd gens.

www.tacomaworld.com

1). I’ll get to looking at this. Sometimes access is easier than at first glance. Maybe some of the others who are retired or have weekends off can help in this. (not also running a farm plus having small children as does the OP).

2). Cables on the loose is a big truck problem also. Not ideal.


You sound good. After the flooding near London, KY, and more recently here in Kerrville, TX, (my parents would have been at risk) the need for our fellow man increases daily.

Bright enough to have a HQ HF radio is a solid reference in my experience. It’s funny, but it’s often not hard to tell who had someone else do the thinking, not just the install (waay past “some help”)

Intent and Result are linked.

.

 

[slowmover]

Lucky start:

From Post #50



Yaesu ft7900r (on 30# Velcro).
W 5.5” x D 6.6” x H 1.6”

Washington
W 6.6” x D 9.8”x H 2.0”

Depth of 10” plus 2.0”(?) for connections.

Tip to use of 30# Velcro is to liberally dot the adhesive with SuperGlue. And don’t remove.

Remove Center Console

Looks like good access for cabling.

.

 

[slowmover]

Forgot about that dual fan kit.
14” Depth needing 16” TTL?


RFI the real problem.

FUEL PUMP RFI ( ham radio related)

i imagine the high pressure fuel pump emits some pretty high frequencies due to how it operates

www.tacomaworld.com

ft891

Ferrite Toroid

FUEL PUMP RFI ( ham radio related)

Any updates? I've been bonding my setup in small increments over the past week. When the engine was running before the bonding, 20 meters was wiped...

www.tacomaworld.com

.

 

[slowmover]

Thread where it’s been hashed already with @cavmedic who ran that thread linked above.

Looking for advice for a new CB radio "system" for my pickup truck

I’m interested in purchasing a CB radio for an upcoming 10 hour + drive from Massachusetts to Virginia. I have been following the discussions on RR regarding the “need” for digital noise reduction which is now available on newer radios – specifically the Anytone AT5555 N II and the Radioddity...

forums.radioreference.com

Needs a Carlisle Bandage

 

[robertwbob]

Lucky start:

From Post #50

View attachment 188607

Yaesu ft7900r (on 30# Velcro).
W 5.5” x D 6.6” x H 1.6”

Washington
W 6.6” x D 9.8”x H 2.0”

Depth of 10” plus 2.0”(?) for connections.

Tip to use of 30# Velcro is to liberally dot the adhesive with SuperGlue. And don’t remove.

Remove Center Console

View attachment 188608

Looks like good access for cabling.

.

thats no step for a stepper like you. last week heater ac unit came out of my 1991 d 150 ac evaporater and heater coil replaced as ac evap decided to leak.

 

[robertwbob]

View attachment 188583View attachment 188582

sure not radio friendly is it?

 

[jcrmadden]

Getting the wireless charger out

 

[slowmover]

Getting the wireless charger out

Radio Mount

Until this vid I couldn’t/didn't see that this space was a shallow wedge.

1). If Qi removed then will space beneath be sufficient or does A/T case take up the slack?

2). Assuming some space how much console-cutting involved?

3). When I was presented with similar choice it was sneak to the wrecked power units to get the necessary (hoping other drivers hadn’t torn them apart to get to components the shop wouldn’t R&R); or, to go to salvage yard or dealer.

4). Which meant how long was I expecting to be in this unit (time/cost factor)? A year was good in my book as I pretty much lived in the truck (home 4-6/days/month).

— Current back-of-console looking better.

OTOH, does this charger add to the RF problem in and of itself? If it’s possible I’d want to remove. Toss under back seat wrapped in heavy plastic. Use space “better” even if radio not installed there.

FWIW, I didn’t experience much in the way of interference from factory components. Big truck is noisy in a general sense (RF and acoustic), but not easy to pinpoint anything RF with exactness.

Big truck and my Dodge “quieter” with engine off. I’d be surprised anyone has dead quiet. When I see that written it’s meant to convey no appreciable noise addition. 95% quiet (that which can be overcome; why speaker & location vital).

Computer control shows up in M-Y 1980 vehicles. Took Detroit awhile to get the problem in hand once EFI shows up circa 1985. I avoided computer control until 2005.

— Last bit is then RF emanation from wiring under console cover. Add M31 & M43 snap ferrites to see if help found. Run a ground or two (RF and/or DC).

That shallow space is a disappointment. I’d go back to braced Lido mount and whether radio can be lifted higher a sufficient amount. If it still seems to be in the way . . Radio Mount problem-solving over, IMO.

.

 

[slowmover]

Power Supply

IMO, I think it would be good to be both specific in listing componentry used and with images as available to go through systems. Maybe someone sees something or memory is jogged.

Start with easiest: 12V Supply.

Big Truck Radio 12V Source Upgrade

Semi-truck tractors come pre-wired with a fused 10A or 15A harness which connects to a standard radio cord via binding posts (in almost all cases). Problem is that it’s both noisy (from fuse panel), and consists of a minimal wire gauge which allows for a greater than .5V (3%) volt drop while in...

forums.radioreference.com

I didn’t think to provide images, but some of those trucks were long ago.

Then, on to:

2). Antenna Mount.
3). Coax route plus additions.

Link old posts if desired. I get to doing a thread on my Dodge this is the idea. (FWIW I’m having my share of problems with the temporary rig).

Bring picture to date. Posts that can be linked over on Radio Install sub-forum per problem is my idea.

.