Radio & TV install.

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videobruce

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Radio & TV installation; equipment & antennas.

In order of the attachments;

A combination of a 'shack' and a office,
Two scanners, 2 meter xceiver, Laptop, audio amp & CCTV sequential switcher,
Spectrum Analyzer, Scope & HD tuner,
 
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videobruce

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For the antenna end;

5' (guyed) tripod, Discone, CM 4228, Eagle Aspen DiSEqC rotor, VHF Ringo, locally made Discone,
Broadband TV amp, 6 'sleave' type three pole single channel UHF traps, one 2 cavity single channel UHF trap (all to prevent overload from 7 very strong UHF stations to allow very weak reception from a distant station in the same direction).
Cable access thru roof.
 

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videobruce

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One correction, the rotor shown is NOT the Eagle Aspen model. That pic was taken before I swapped rotors. Not to go too far OT, here are some shots of that unit.
This is the only DiSEqC protocol rotor that I know of.
BTW, I did not use their 'one cable' system, as I didn't want the loss going through two additional devices (rotor & control box). I spliced the regular rotor cable (that was already in place) with two pieces of RG59 with a 'F' fitting on the end so as to use a decicated feed to the rotor. The downlead is RG-6 ran as usual.

Their site is here;
http://www.eagleaspen.com/products/products_1.php?id=90
 

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ScanDaBands

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"Locally" made discone looks like a heavy duty antenna - does it work better than average ? Any info on the maker available on the web? Thanks for the pics - nice shack.
 

W9WSS

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videobruce said:
In order of the attachments;

A combination of a 'shack' and a office,
Two scanners, 2 meter xceiver, Laptop, audio amp & CCTV sequential switcher,
Spectrum Analyzer, Scope & HD tuner,

Is your corner-desk pushed against the wall, blocking the closet door? Or is that just what it appears to do in the pic? Either way, nice set-up and very cool equipment!
 

videobruce

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ScanDaBands;
I don't remember how/where I bought it. It is probably 20+ years old. AFAIK, the guy doesn't sell them anymore.
As far as performance, because of the greater spacing where the 'cones' meet the 'hat', results above 800 MHz are poorer than the top Discone.
Before you ask, it's not from RS or the one Icom sells, I don't remember where I got it, as I have had that over 15 years also.

K9WSS;
Regarding the desks (there are two, the other is partially visible) I used the base cabinets from your standard 5 drawer metal office desk, removed the top and back panel, used 3/4" plywood for the top with framework underneath to fit in the room in two 'L' shapes. The 1st version I (unfortunately) used some plywood I already had. Not the best and I wished I hadn't. The 2nd version, I used birch plywood. Not as cheap, but surely worth it. I also used better edge/corner pieces instead of what I had left over from some RTA furniture as I used for the first desk.

That door leads to the Dinning room. The room was probably used as a 'den' back in 1917. This is a upper 'flat'. The lower doesn't have the door.

For those who have a 'keen' eye, that is a "Kill-A-Watt" under the calender.
 
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W9WSS

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videobruce said:
ScanDaBands;

K9WSS;
Regarding the desks (there are two, the other is partially visible) I used the base cabinets from your standard 5 drawer metal office desk, removed the top and back panel, used 3/4" plywood for the top with framework underneath to fit in the room in two 'L' shapes. The 1st version I (unfortunately) used some plywood I already had. Not the best and I wished I hadn't. The 2nd version, I used birch plywood. Not as cheap, but surely worth it. I also used better edge/corner pieces instead of what I had left over from some RTA furniture as I used for the first desk.

That door leads to the Dinning room. The room was probably used as a 'den' back in 1917. This is a upper 'flat'. The lower doesn't have the door.

For those who have a 'keen' eye, that is a "Kill-A-Watt" under the calender.

Thanks for the heads-up on the desk/wall.

Regarding the "Kill-A-Watt," I've seen them advertised for $15.95 all the way up to $49.95 from some Internet supply websites. Does it appear accurate, and does it monitor all the power to your station?
 
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videobruce

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Correct on the price. What I don't like is the orginal design to be plugged directly into a outlet. Since most outlets are 12" above the floor (or less), one would have to be on their hands and knees to read it.
What needs to be done is a redesign so as to have a 'sampling' cable with a plug/receptical type 'cube' at the end of a cable running to the unit so as to allow it to be placed at least desk level or handheld.
I strapped mine on a 1x2" piece of wood I secured to the back of the framework of the desktop. I did the same to one in the Living room for my HD setup.

Yes, all the current in this room, except three lights (two shown) and that phone goes through that meter. Seems to be reasonable accurate according to a DVM with current capibilities I compared it to. Can't beat the price.
 

fcfd988

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I am interested in more info on the coax feedthrough in the roof. Could you provide more pics of it from the roof side. How it is sealed, etc?

Thanks,

Wes
 

videobruce

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I used a PVC 'vent flange' (I thinlk that is what it is called) to go through the roof. I can't really get a shot of it without going back up there.
If I remember correctly, I drilled through the center of those 1x6" 'slats' (to be sure I was in the center and up against a joist) after I removed a couple of the interlocking type roof shingles. I used either 3 or 4" PVC and a 'elbow' outside so rain wouldn't enter (even though light snow does blow in). I didn't glue the elbow so as to make 'fishing' additional cables through easier.
Hard to push/pull RG-8 or RG-11 cable.

I planned for the future as I didn't know what I would add or remove and didn't want cables going down the side of the roof which would only lengthen the run.
I'm in a upper 'flat' in a 'double'.
 
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fcfd988

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Thanks for the additional info on the feedthrough. Is the PVC vent flange something that is avaliable at Lowes or Home Depot? Do they come in different sizes or are they all the same?

Wes
 
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