2015 f150 nmo’s install

[mmckenna]

So you only have the positive wire going to the battery?

Correct. 6 gauge wire from the battery to a 60 amp circuit breaker. From the circuit breaker, it runs to the board behind the rear seat. I have a ATO fuse block back there where each radio connects.
Negative/return lead is a short piece of 6 gauge going to one of the seat bolts. On these trucks, they are rated for around 60 amps return on the body ground. The jumper from the battery to the body is large enough to handle it. Also, having it grounded right at the radio can help reduce noise and weirdness. I usually ground the radio chassis, in addition to the negative lead.

This wire has the SAE rating to be used in vehicles, oil/gas/fuel exposure, temperature rating and is also very flexible:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIB5ASC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the 60 amp circuit breaker I've used on a couple of trucks.

Amazon.com: Bussmann CB285-60 Surface-Mount Circuit Breakers, 60 Amps (1 per pack): Automotive

Buy Bussmann CB285-60 Surface-Mount Circuit Breakers, 60 Amps (1 per pack): Circuit Breakers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

This is the ATO fuse block I've used on several trucks:

Amazon.com

And the ground buss:

Amazon.com: 6 Terminal Bus Bar - 150A BusBar Block with Cover, Ground Distribution, Power Distribution Terminal Block w/ 6 M4 Screws + 2 Studs, for Car Boat Marine Caravan RV (New) : Electronics

Amazon.com: 6 Terminal Bus Bar - 150A BusBar Block with Cover, Ground Distribution, Power Distribution Terminal Block w/ 6 M4 Screws + 2 Studs, for Car Boat Marine Caravan RV (New) : Electronics

www.amazon.com

You can get ATO fuse blocks that have a negative buss, but I prefer to run a larger ground buss since I not only land the negative lead there, but also the chassis grounds for the radios and other devices.

If you want some really good install guidance, this document from CalTrans is one of the better ones I've found. Goes into some pretty good detail about specifications required. Most of it is probably overkill for the average ham/hobbyist, but you won't go wrong by following it:

Electrical | Caltrans

State of California

dot.ca.gov

 

[CanesFan95]

My setup is bush-league compared to you guys, but thought I'd mention, there's a dash mount bracket that lets you mount to the top of the dashboard. They are pricy, but work well.

 

[WX5812]

My setup is bush-league compared to you guys, but thought I'd mention, there's a dash mount bracket that lets you mount to the top of the dashboard. They are pricy, but work well.

Very nice!

 

[WX5812]

I’m trying to add some pictures but it says they are too large. Is there a trick I’m not aware of?

 

[mmckenna]

I’m trying to add some pictures but it says they are too large. Is there a trick I’m not aware of?

I usually upload mine to Imgur and then resize them there. Then post the link.

 

[AK9R]

So you only have the positive wire going to the battery?

Keep in mind that on many late-model vehicles, including your F-150, there are current sensors on the negative leads to the battery. The vehicle's computer monitors the current going back to the battery and shuts off certain loads if the return current is too high.

If you were to run a negative lead from your radios to the battery, that current would be unmonitored. I don't know exactly what would happen as a result of this unmonitored return current, but I'm concerned that the results could be unpleasant or expensive. By running the negative leads from your radios to the body and using the body as a "ground", the return current to the battery will go through the current sensors as Ford intended.

 

[mmckenna]

Keep in mind that on many late-model vehicles, including your F-150, there are current sensors on the negative leads to the battery. The vehicle's computer monitors the current going back to the battery and shuts off certain loads if the return current is too high.

Exactly, and this is covered in the owners manual. Always good to read the manual….

 

[wa8pyr]

Keep in mind that on many late-model vehicles, including your F-150, there are current sensors on the negative leads to the battery. The vehicle's computer monitors the current going back to the battery and shuts off certain loads if the return current is too high.

If you were to run a negative lead from your radios to the battery, that current would be unmonitored. I don't know exactly what would happen as a result of this unmonitored return current, but I'm concerned that the results could be unpleasant or expensive. By running the negative leads from your radios to the body and using the body as a "ground", the return current to the battery will go through the current sensors as Ford intended.

You can also run your negative lead to the chassis point close to the battery, as per the Ford service circular (attached). I did this on my F150; I've got an 8 gauge power cable running from the cab through the firewall over to the battery, positive lead to the battery, negative lead to the chassis close by. In the cab that cable is connected to a 6-position fuse block mounted under the seat, and the power cables to the radio and accessories go from that. Works just fine.

 

[mrweather]

Exactly, and this is covered in the owners manual. Always good to read the manual….

The owner's manual of my 2018 Charger explicitly says not to run the negative lead of a 2-way radio to the battery terminal but to use the chassis stud six inches away from the battery.

 

[AI7PM]

.......that current would be unmonitored. I don't know exactly what would happen as a result of this unmonitored return current..........

I know a ham who's result was buying two new batteries before learning what the Hall Sensor was. $$$$$