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Anderson Powerpole connectors

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Asmitty0010

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Hey guys, i'm looking at getting a dc power strip. I've seen the rigrunner and it looks really nice. My question is, I see it uses Anderson power pole connectors. How would one go about crimping those? On the westmountain radio website they have a crimp tool just for anderson powerpoles. Would I have to buy that too or would a run of the mill crimp tool work fine?

Thanks
 

zz0468

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I've had mediocre results using any old crimp tool. I solder mine.
 

RayK

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I found this web page about the dangers of not doing a proper crimp
http://www.connex-electronics.com/?url=/html/products/anderson/powerpole/pp_main.html&kw=google{Anderson_Powerpole{Anderson_Power_Pole&gclid=CJGQhazhlpACFQGzGgodeBl_7Q

Click on the link for soldering and crimping connectors
 
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kc8bdk

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if you get the suggested crimp tool from powerwerx or West Mountain, they have given me no problems

the "stock" crimps you can get at elect supply stores are not the correct size and give you problems.

I actually prefer the powerpole crimps to soldering. IMHO.
 

Grog

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mfuller1950 said:
If you have a freight harbor you can get a crimping tool for around $6.00 or that is what I paid for mine.


I got a gerber bender 88 (I think, but will confirm) tool locally at lowes hardware that does an acceptable job as well. Around $8 and good to have as a spare after I get the $45-50 tool. Just be careful with the cheaper tools and you should be fine.
 

key2_altfire

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Zowie... the West Mountain crimper is $185?!

The mini-mill cost me $220 and can be used to machine the crimping die... looks like I may have to go this route.
 

Grog

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Someone sells a crimper tool for the PP that is only $47-50, will look it up later and post.
 

Grog

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key2_altfire

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For some reason this thread is sticking in my head, LOL.

Back-soldering crimped connectors is completely not covered in my copy of IPC's "Acceptability of Electronic Assemblies." They DO cover soldering swaged hardware, such as rivets, and IF soldered, the rivet must have at least 330° of solder contact around the head, no protrusion of solder into a hollow-core rivet and a good fillet (basically good soldering technique).

Where I work, we use a lot of crimped connectors so I asked one of the guys in the production room about back-soldering crimped connections. He told me it's not generally permitted because heat from soldering weakens the mechanical connection and trashes the plastic insulator. Our standard on the mil-spec stuff is that the wire must fill the connector barrel but not protrude to where it will interfere with the bolt-on/spade connection. We use two type of crimpers, one for power transmission wires and another for electronics.

Hope that helps some.
 

Asmitty0010

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hey guys,

after reading this thread and a few other post on the web I ordered the crimper from harbor freight. I only have to make about 6 connectors so I thought I'd buy the cheap one first. Thanks for all the input!
 
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