antenna tip question

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SCPD

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One of my little projects when it gets warm is to put 10m in the truck.
Wanted to cut down a 11m whip.
Question is: What's with the ball on the end? I'll need to cut it off to get a match. Do I need it on there for any reason?
 

jhooten

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So it don't hurt so much when you stab your self with the rod. Anytime now someone will be along to tell you is is to dissipate static. They are demented pay them no mind.

There are several people that sell replacements that are held on by a set screw on ebay. Search for Corona Balls.

Oh, check the rod holder. Some are pressed on and you have to trim from the tip. Some are held on the rod with set screws. Those you can take off, trim the whip, and reinstall leaving the tip undisturbed.
 
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ermin

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One of my little projects when it gets warm is to put 10m in the truck.
Wanted to cut down a 11m whip.
Question is: What's with the ball on the end? I'll need to cut it off to get a match. Do I need it on there for any reason?
It's a safety thing. So you don't poke your eye out ;p)

No, really you take the whip out of the base, cut that end as needed then put it back in the base and measure the vswr.

73

Ermin
 

popnokick

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Disconnect whip at base and cut there.
 

LtDoc

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I waited to see if anyone would comment on a 102" whip and how to shorten those. Do them the same way that's recommended for the other whips, cut them at the bottom. But what about that ferrule on the bottom? The thing is just silver soldered on, so unsolder it. Do what ever cutting is required and resolder the thing back on. I've found that takes a 'torch', a soldering gun won't work. Also, count on using something like a hacksaw, or one -huge- bolt cutter to cut that 102" whip.
Why the bottom instead of the top? Because it retains the 'springiness' of the whip (any kind of whip). That corona ball at the top really does eliminate some static noise, and I've never had to worry about putting an eye out with it on that tip. 'Course, I didn't worry about putting out an eye with out one either...
- 'Doc
 

jhooten

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I waited to see if anyone would comment on a 102" whip and how to shorten those. Do them the same way that's recommended for the other whips, cut them at the bottom. But what about that ferrule on the bottom? The thing is just silver soldered on, so unsolder it. Do what ever cutting is required and resolder the thing back on. I've found that takes a 'torch', a soldering gun won't work. Also, count on using something like a hacksaw, or one -huge- bolt cutter to cut that 102" whip.
Why the bottom instead of the top? Because it retains the 'springiness' of the whip (any kind of whip). That corona ball at the top really does eliminate some static noise, and I've never had to worry about putting an eye out with it on that tip. 'Course, I didn't worry about putting out an eye with out one either...
- 'Doc
Those are what I was talking about. The ones I have that do not have removable rod holders are not silver soldered on. They are friction welded.
 

jhooten

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The customer support guy at the manufacturer said it is cheaper, less prone to failure, and works better when joining dissimilar metals than solder.
 

robertmac

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Dissipate static. Ah, I thought it was to make it less prone to a lightening strike. I have always cut the bottom and left the little ball alone at the top. As always, cut very little at a time. If cut too much off, have to go for 6 m.
 

SCPD

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Thanks for all the help and comments.
I need to go out to the garage and take a second look.
But I believe, like someone else mentioned, there is no way to separate the 11m whip I have from the 3/8-24 mount.
Not sure if it's "friction welded", but it's a press fit of some sort.
I suppose I could force it apart, but then I'd have to drill and tap the mount.
I'll just cut off the tip, and make sure I don't poke my eye out.
 
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