BC350 Schematic

[digitalanalog]

I have a modified scanner sounds very much like the same as this previous thread
http://www.radioreference.com/forums/uniden-scanners/83538-what-mod-done-my-bc350a.html

I am looking for a electrical schematic for the BC350A or
someone that can help return this back to normal power.

I have also set up a web page to show detailed pics of the actual wiring.
photo's are VERY large (3072 X 2304) shot from several different positions to give several
views.

Do to the size of the pics,please give it time to load them all
Dial up modem folks will probably NOT want to try and view this page.

Go here to view the photo's
http://www.scannerinfosource.com/bc350a.html

Any help on this would be Greatly appreciated.



Thnaks
Jim

 

[digitalanalog]

Would also like to add,
If you have a BC350A and a good camera, if you could take a view pics for me
that would be helpful as well.

Or if you have a BC350A that you want to sell, let me know how much.

Also, The pics i have listed are from a Smaller version of the 350A.
I have more of the 350A that are bigger and have a totally different wiring setup, i will post those pics in a while.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thank
Jim

 

[digitalanalog]

I'll pay $$$$$ for some good pics if someone wants to take 4 screws out of there BC350A, and snap a couple shots for me.

 

[pro92b]

Search for FCC ID AMWUB297 at https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/GenericSearch.cfm

Select the 1999 release and you will find schematics and photos.

 

[digitalanalog]

Thank you very much for the reference.

I was able to locate the information i needed for the AMWUB297 scanners i have and i have them both working now.

I also have some AMWUB225 (BC350A) models, and the reference for that FCC ID is dead..........

But i thank you very much for the help.
Jim

 

[digitalanalog]

Problem should soon be solved.
a BC350A is on it's way to me for examination.

 

[ScanWorcester]

I have 2 of these identical units, purchased from a radio swap at MIT/Cambridge MA.

For "restoring power", all you have to do is snip the after-market brown wire where it meets the OEM blue wire, and the after-market red wire where it meets the OEM purple wire. This is your power switch. Solder them back on to the two empty solder joints on the top of the vol/squelch assy.

If you want to restore audio with an internal speaker, you'll have to remove the capacitor on the underside of the pcb and short that. That's essentially where the switched external speaker jack was. The capacitor let low-power go through the RCA to some sort of amplifier.

I'm guessing that these were cruiser issue radios and "modified" this way to allow for modular installation. If you don't have a need for the discriminator tap (yellow wire), or external power (other than the on-board coax barrel jack), you can snip the rest of the pretty ribbon wires to neaten it up.

FWIW, my 2 units are back to normal operating conditions, less an external speaker jack, which I wasn't interested in. I took pictures of the before, just not of the after, but that can obviously be arranged if need be.

 

[digitalanalog]

Issue solved, and i now have a BUNCH of new toy's.
Next project, 1 power source to power all the new toy's, fun,fun,fun......

Thanks burner50 for sending the scanner for comparison.

 

[kc5kpf]

what you have with the bc350a modification like that is for police patrol vehicle in-car camera systems. the bc350a was used in the lockable cabinet in the trunk of the veh to provide audio from the officer's wireless mic to the vcr unit.


steve collins
kc5kpf

 

[monroefiredog]

I have same problem

I saw that you have some bearcat 350's that were modified. I also have the same problem, can you please send me a picture of the wiring that you did to get it working. I see your directions on here but I would really like to see it instead of reading it.

Thank You
D. Brookshire

I have 2 of these identical units, purchased from a radio swap at MIT/Cambridge MA.

For "restoring power", all you have to do is snip the after-market brown wire where it meets the OEM blue wire, and the after-market red wire where it meets the OEM purple wire. This is your power switch. Solder them back on to the two empty solder joints on the top of the vol/squelch assy.

If you want to restore audio with an internal speaker, you'll have to remove the capacitor on the underside of the pcb and short that. That's essentially where the switched external speaker jack was. The capacitor let low-power go through the RCA to some sort of amplifier.

I'm guessing that these were cruiser issue radios and "modified" this way to allow for modular installation. If you don't have a need for the discriminator tap (yellow wire), or external power (other than the on-board coax barrel jack), you can snip the rest of the pretty ribbon wires to neaten it up.

FWIW, my 2 units are back to normal operating conditions, less an external speaker jack, which I wasn't interested in. I took pictures of the before, just not of the after, but that can obviously be arranged if need be.