• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

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    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Best Mobile 2025

slowmover

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A general: what should I recommend to friends who want high performance in Citizen Band?

Let’s ballpark it at $500 entry.
Will last longer than the time they own the automobile.

Seatbelts, Concealed Carry, and CITIZEN BAND.

This thread aimed at YOU, not the guy who knows even less. However little you know, the tools are linked as to WHAT and WHY. Your handle on them makes it easier for your buddy to understand. (You don’t just toss him in and expect him to swim).

1). As a way of taking what Best Mobile 2023 unveiled regarding the revolutionary jump in RX/DX performance:


2). Then allying this to the major problem in traveling the USA while constantly monitoring AM-19 for potential problems, not just camaraderie to while-away-the-hours:


3). To up one’s game in Who, What, Where after an install:


4). Comes down to having a first class installation featuring modern gear, and

Making the best choice as to:

A). Antenna & Mount
B). Location
C). A high fidelity external speaker.

— The key concept is that a mobile radio rig is a set of systems which must perform well in & of themselves.

The Amateur Mobile Radio Installation Bible
is main reference. Followed by examples in this sub-forum (the one in which you’re reading; and):


As to antenna (reason for this thread):


That I think will settle out past the OP questions to I.D. what may be best re a 6’ NMO-mount, roof-center antenna as this represents above 85% of what a no-holds-barred roof system is capable.

The transceiver itself is automatically an NRC-equipped AM/SSB model with a number of choices, but lets narrow it down to those having enough wattage to Hear, and Get Heard as is possible where TX & RX are equivalent. (Up to, but not needing more than, 100W. 50-80W covers the necessary and makes easier the installation):

IMG_6821.jpeg

To that I nominate the ANYTONE 6666-Pro as spec plus size are the aces. This is significantly smaller than almost all its peers (stays inside budget proposed).

Speaker (of course) is the DRIVER EXTREME DRX-9010.

Antenna can be removed and mount capped.

Radio installed in dash or console can have microphone removed.

Result is that “radio rig” disappears.


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slowmover

Active Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
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Fort Worth
Complaints:

Not gonna cut a hole in the roof”

Is now followed by,

Not gonna cut a hole in the dash or console”.

I’ve done both. One is reluctant first time.
I’ve gone to PETERBILT parts counter to pay $165 for a console face cover to replace the one I’d clearanced for a radio. Or scrounged the junk yard for the same piece. On trucks I didn’t own.

There’s usually more room behind these than is first apparent.

The permanent installation is the one that gets used.

How and where to run cabling (power or coax) is found by some common sense having read the reference work linked above; and done searches for models to follow in the other subforum (a pickup is a pickup, generally).

Sure, could be mounted otherwise. But these ideas should lead (and being able to glance at face is best).

IMG_6824.jpeg

IMG_6825.jpeg

Speaker can go here though it’s not as good as B or C pillar.

IMG_2378.jpeg
 

slowmover

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Messages
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Fort Worth
Whether it winds up being NMO30 or NMO34, add springB (2.5”) to this with the 64” W640 whip to top out near 6’.

IMG_4059.jpeg

These antennas are low key, practically disappear compared to a CB antenna as it’s usually considered.

Get the cap so when removed the mount is covered.

My opinion is that 7’ is where the magic happens. But it’s not desired for this budget and set of tastes.

From 6’ to 7’ is this (actual experience): the man speaking at the far reach of my Receive with a 6’ changed to I could now hear to whom he was speaking when I swapped over to 7’ (two pairs of Skipshooters in those lengths; while parked).

I don’t think it’ll matter enough that change versus the simplicity of what’s recommended here.

.
 
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slowmover

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Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
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Fort Worth


This is the retailer from whom I’d buy.
Specify MARS/Alignment.

He’s been field tester among several for the factory and knows these as well or better than almost all others the past three years.

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