Body Mounted NMO

[nmfire10]

From reports I've seen in other threads, it has one post and one member. (wouldn't be you be any chance, would it?) :wink:

Why go there with RR? And why spam it here in the first place? Anyplace that advertizes a replacement to RR on RR I consider spam.

Joe M.

Concider this source and it won't seem as strange.....

 

[SCPD]

I haven't priced the Greenlee products in awhile so they may be more expensive. I have the current Antenex catalog but it doesn't have prices posted. If they cost $22 that's a deal. I may just buy one and keep it for future use even though I don't need it now.

I admit that removing a headliner isn't something I want to do everyday. I did it on the first vehicle I put holes in that's why I removed the dome light, etc. on this one.

 

[doctordave]

Thanks for the technical advice on this - it was very helpful. I had the opportunity to get well into the rural countryside yesterday (away from cellular/paging/Nextel towers) and conduct some tests. My left/rear located trunk-lip mount antenna yields only mild directionality on various portions of VHF-Hi and 800 trunked......but there is a considerable impact on various portions of VHF-low - no surprise, really.....just confirmed what I'd suspected and many had alluded to.

Again, I appreciate all of the great input on how to properly install a permanent mount.


Dave

 

[garys]

An antenna hole saw is the only way to go. I've used regular hole saws in a pinch, but it's not pretty. The major problem, beside possibly drilling too deep and tearing the headliner, is that the sheet metal can warp causing the mount not to sit right. Then you get into the problem of water leaks, again ruining the headliner.

I've done lots of NMO mount holes and never once regretted buying the right hole saw to do it. I STILL get a bit anxious about drilling holes, but if you take your time and work carefully, you shouldn't have a problem.

You can also get some hints here, http://www.strongsignals.net/access/feature/article_001.html

 

[n4yek]

I took my brand new Ford F-150 pickup to a two way radio dealer that does installations. I had two NMO mounts installed. Took about an hour. If you ever want to remove the antennas, they make 3/4 inch hole plugs just for this. Nobody will notice them.

Or you could just buy a cheap cellular antenna at Radio Shack and
put it on the NMO mount if you ever re-sell or trade it in. Then state
it is 'Cellular Ready'.

I found NMO mounted in the roof of my new truck improved my
ham radio receive and transmit capability greatly. Hey you are paying
lots of money for your new vehicle, make some modifications that
benifit you.

As for leaks, I put some gasket seal around the hole just for that
purpose. I had my truck 13 years before I got rid of it, Never had
a leak.

Danny
n4yek@qsl.net

 

[brian]

Greenlee Hole Punches

I'm an amateur at vehicle installs. The thought of using a drill with any kind of hole saw gave me the willies, so I opted to go with a Greenlee hole punch. The vehicle was a Ford Ranger, and I was able to make the hole in the roof in a space above the third brake light, so I was able to get to the top and bottom of the hole without removing the headliner.

I already had a 3/8" hole in the location from an existing antenna, so I just threaded the greenlee punch through the existing hole, gave it a few turns, and done. Much cleaner than a hole saw, at least if I was operating the saw.

The trick to the punches is that you purchase one that makes a 3/4" hole, and not a punch for 3/4" conduit. The actual size for a 3/4" conduit is bigger than 3/4". I had to look around at many different places to find a punch that made an exact 3/4" hole. I wound up purchasing it from Grainger for about $30.

 

[ECPD279]

I am considering using a Uni-Bit step drill. I have one that goes up to 3/4" and is only about an inch long so you wont punch your headliner. It is quite sharp and makes nice clean edges for only around $36. I used to drill through alarm cabinets and steel door frames with it when I was in the alarm industry. It will not leave the rough edges of a hole saw. This whole thread is giving me ideas now. Access from the dome light for one antenna, and the third brake light for the second. You guys are going to get me in trouble.

 

[CullyKowal]

Has anyone thought of going to a commercial two-way shop to have an antenna installed? These folks are experts at it and they do not make mistakes which you may have to live with for the lifetime of your vehicle if you yourself screw up. In addition to a neat job, they can do it in much less time the the do-it-yourselfer. Cully Kowal, Richfield, MN

 

[K5MAR]

I am considering using a Uni-Bit step drill. I have one that goes up to 3/4" and is only about an inch long so you wont punch your headliner. It is quite sharp and makes nice clean edges for only around $36. I used to drill through alarm cabinets and steel door frames with it when I was in the alarm industry. It will not leave the rough edges of a hole saw. This whole thread is giving me ideas now. Access from the dome light for one antenna, and the third brake light for the second. You guys are going to get me in trouble.

Sid, that inch bit length just may get you in trouble. In my experience, the trpical headliner is closer than that to the sheet metal. Of course, if you are drilling from the inside out, no problem. The made for the job NMO saws are only about a half inch total depth.

Mark S.

 

[Voyager]

I am considering using a Uni-Bit step drill. I have one that goes up to 3/4" and is only about an inch long so you wont punch your headliner. It is quite sharp and makes nice clean edges for only around $36. I used to drill through alarm cabinets and steel door frames with it when I was in the alarm industry. It will not leave the rough edges of a hole saw. This whole thread is giving me ideas now. Access from the dome light for one antenna, and the third brake light for the second. You guys are going to get me in trouble.

Sid, that inch bit length just may get you in trouble. In my experience, the trpical headliner is closer than that to the sheet metal. Of course, if you are drilling from the inside out, no problem. The made for the job NMO saws are only about a half inch total depth.

Mark S.

The ones I've used are less than 1/4" - just the length of the teeth. Above that there is a flange that in theory removes a little bit of paint around the hole, but there are two problems with that. First, the paint removal is unnecessary as the ground is usually 'gotten' from under the roof, and it never stripped it anyway.

Joe M.

 

[K5MAR]

The ones I've used are less than 1/4" - just the length of the teeth. Above that there is a flange that in theory removes a little bit of paint around the hole, but there are two problems with that. First, the paint removal is unnecessary as the ground is usually 'gotten' from under the roof, and it never stripped it anyway.

Joe M.

I'm also including the pilot bit length, which protrudes out past the teeth of the saw. The extra 1/4 inch for the bit is a guestimate, but pretty close, I think.

Mark S.

 

[doctordave]

Should post this on the MD section, but since we are on the topic here at this board...... anyone know of a commercial outfit in the Northern Baltimore County, MD area that does a nice job at professional installation of perm NMO mounts? Think I'll spend a little more and get it right - rather than learn by trial and error myself.

Thanks much for any responses.

Dave