buying my base station coax ..... where should I get it?

[niceguy71]

I don't have a local CB shop anymore.... and like doing business with a shop that can fix my equipment... my President Grant export and Cobra 148GTL and all my handhelds are ancient .... I need to buy a 100 foot of coax to go from base to the Big Stick... who do you all use or recommend??? most don't seem to repair a radio if they didn't sell it... so I'd rather not bother with them... and would rather deal with knowledgeable people than say a Amazon

 

[mmckenna]

In the old days, RG-8 was a pretty good choice for a long coax run like that. It was reasonably priced, not too big and was flexible enough to easily install in a residence.

RG-8 could still be a good choice.

More modern coax is available. Times Microwave LMR-400 is a good basic choice that you really can't go wrong with. It'll cost more than RG-8, it is stiffer, but it has better performance. You can buy 100' pre-connectorized lengths of it at many online retailers. Or, if you know the exact length you need, you can order it cut to length with your choice of connectors installed.

For CB, anything much bigger than LMR-400 is kind of overkill. You could do LMR-600, but there's probably not enough loss difference to really justify the higher cost and much stiffer cable (harder to install in your home).

There's many online retailers. Just make sure you get known name brand stuff. There are some cheap Chinese knock-offs on Amazon.

 

[mmckenna]

Here's a simple tool you can use to compare some common coaxial cable types. You plug in all your known info and then select from different types of coax to see how it'll perform.

Coax Calculator

Remember, coax loss works in both directions, high loss will reduce transmitted power as well as received signal strength.

3dB roughly equals 50%, either loss or gain.

You likely will not notice 1dB gain differences, so don't get hung up on small changes like that.

LMR-400 would be an easy choice for a 100 foot run, and fairly easy to find, if your budget allows it. But, at 27MHz, there isn't a big/noticeable difference between quality name brand RG-8 and LMR-400, so compare prices carefully.

 

[GadgetGeek]

I use Times Microwave LMR400.

I don't have a local CB shop anymore.... and like doing business with a shop that can fix my equipment... my President Grant export and Cobra 148GTL and all my handhelds are ancient .... I need to buy a 100 foot of coax to go from base to the Big Stick... who do you all use or recommend??? most don't seem to repair a radio if they didn't sell it... so I'd rather not bother with them... and would rather deal with knowledgeable people than say a Amazon

I've been using this place for many years. No affiliation, happy customer.

Patch cables, Jumpers, Coax Assemblies, Coax, Times Microwave - DX Store

www.dxstore.com

I use Times Microwave LMR400 for my cb, ham and scanner antennas. Good stuff.

 

[wjm1129]

Jefatech offers some good coax with free shipping.

 

[blantonl]

I've bought 3 rolls of real deal holyfield Times Microwave LMR-400 on Ebay of all places.

 

[niceguy71]

Here's a simple tool you can use to compare some common coaxial cable types. You plug in all your known info and then select from different types of coax to see how it'll perform.

Coax Calculator

Remember, coax loss works in both directions, high loss will reduce transmitted power as well as received signal strength.

3dB roughly equals 50%, either loss or gain.

You likely will not notice 1dB gain differences, so don't get hung up on small changes like that.

LMR-400 would be an easy choice for a 100 foot run, and fairly easy to find, if your budget allows it. But, at 27MHz, there isn't a big/noticeable difference between quality name brand RG-8 and LMR-400, so compare prices carefully.

I typically get the best I can get.... I hope to have two anytone 6666 someday ( mobile and base) so I'll see what a good quality CB shop suggests.. I know I'll pay more at a shop... but if they fix my radios and take care of me and my stuff I'll always take care of them..... I miss the days I could swing in and get something worked on or buy the latest gizmo

 

[qc]

LMR-400 is the way to go. I have LMR-400DB Direct Burial for my runs. It's been up 20 Years and still has excellent SWRs return loss on my Antenna Analyzer and Wattmeters LMR-400-DB | Times Microwave Systems

 

[mmckenna]

I typically get the best I can get.... I hope to have two anytone 6666 someday ( mobile and base) so I'll see what a good quality CB shop suggests.. I know I'll pay more at a shop... but if they fix my radios and take care of me and my stuff I'll always take care of them..... I miss the days I could swing in and get something worked on or buy the latest gizmo

I'm sure the shops appreciate you as a customer.

However, a CB shop won't sell enough higher spec cable like that to give you a good price. A larger dealer that sells more bulk cable will get it at much lower costs, and should pass that along to you.

You also need to be sure you are getting a good name brand cable, like Times Microwave. There are some cheap/crappy Chinese knockoffs that you probably don't want.

But, if you can get it for a good price, then go for it.

 

[niceguy71]

well I found a CB shop.... went there today and bought my coax and met the guy.... seems like he can fix anything I need fixed so I have someone... too bad he's a whopping 22 miles away ... I thought all the old shops had closed... I remember this guy from back in the 80's... I saw the ad on line "Lou's CB Radio Sales & Service" and thought he CAN"T still be in business... but I called... he is!!!!. .... I told him I wanted the good wire but he assured me rg8 would be fine and I really didn't need anything more expensive he put it on an ohm meter and showed me it was good to go... and I have to trust the professional... so I'm getting closer to getting my base set up.

 

[K4EET]

<snip> he put it on an ohm meter and showed me it was good to go... and I have to trust the professional... so I'm getting closer to getting my base set up.

Hello @niceguy71. Just an FYI. I take it that the roll of RG-8/U was new. Does it have crimp-type PL-259 connectors? Are the connectors sealed on the coax side with heat shrink tubing? Is there a manufacturer’s name on the cable? If so, who is the cable made by? Using a volt-ohm meter (VOM) will check for center conductor and shield continuity end-to-end as well as for shorts but cannot tell you if the cable is good at RF levels. For example, if the cable is contaminated with water, the VOM probably will not pick up on that. You would need something a little more sophisticated like a NanoVNA (at a minimum) to check some other parameters in the 25 MHz to 30 MHz RF range to know if the cable is good at RF levels.

RG-8/U is “OK” to use for CB on a 100 foot run. Be sure to seal the connection at the antenna end to prevent water contamination of the cable. You will not be able to direct bury the cable in the ground as it is not rated for that. For a direct bury installation, you would need at least RG-213/U which costs about 75 cents more per foot than RG-8/U. In addition to RG-213/U’s direct bury characteristic, it will also last longer than RG-8/U in sunlight. It’s all in what your design requirements are for your antenna system.

Finally, I should mention to be sure the you follow good grounding principles on your antenna system. You don’t want to become the neighborhood “magnet” for lightning strikes. I had a thread on that a while back. It is found by clicking this heading:

Antenna Coax Grounding by Whitham D. Reeve based on the National Electrical Code (NEC) Article 810

In many threads about running coax to antennas, some of us will usually mention "be sure to properly ground things" without going into a whole lot of details. We may even mention that the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires it for all homes and businesses within the United States. I found...

forums.radioreference.com

Best wishes for an optimal and safe antenna installation.

Dave K4EET

P.S.: That was pretty awesome that you apparently found what I would call an old-skool CB repair shop. You don’t hear about too many of them.

 

[KMG54]

Times microwave LMR 400 from the antenna farm, It's all I use from HF to 900 MHZ.

 

[niceguy71]

Hello @niceguy71. Just an FYI. I take it that the roll of RG-8/U was new. Does it have crimp-type PL-259 connectors? Are the connectors sealed on the coax side with heat shrink tubing? Is there a manufacturer’s name on the cable? If so, who is the cable made by? Using a volt-ohm meter (VOM) will check for center conductor and shield continuity end-to-end as well as for shorts but cannot tell you if the cable is good at RF levels. For example, if the cable is contaminated with water, the VOM probably will not pick up on that. You would need something a little more sophisticated like a NanoVNA (at a minimum) to check some other parameters in the 25 MHz to 30 MHz RF range to know if the cable is good at RF levels.

RG-8/U is “OK” to use for CB on a 100 foot run. Be sure to seal the connection at the antenna end to prevent water contamination of the cable. You will not be able to direct bury the cable in the ground as it is not rated for that. For a direct bury installation, you would need at least RG-213/U which costs about 75 cents more per foot than RG-8/U. In addition to RG-213/U’s direct bury characteristic, it will also last longer than RG-8/U in sunlight. It’s all in what your design requirements are for your antenna system.

Finally, I should mention to be sure the you follow good grounding principles on your antenna system. You don’t want to become the neighborhood “magnet” for lightning strikes. I had a thread on that a while back. It is found by clicking this heading:

Antenna Coax Grounding by Whitham D. Reeve based on the National Electrical Code (NEC) Article 810

In many threads about running coax to antennas, some of us will usually mention "be sure to properly ground things" without going into a whole lot of details. We may even mention that the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires it for all homes and businesses within the United States. I found...

forums.radioreference.com

Best wishes for an optimal and safe antenna installation.

Dave K4EET

P.S.: That was pretty awesome that you apparently found what I would call an old-skool CB repair shop. You don’t hear about too many of them.

thank you for the advice K4EET ... the roll was brand new the ends are a rubber molded piece over the metal screw pl-259 connections... it is gray ( wish this site let me post a picture) it say's on the side RG8X 95% OEM/USA 95-14400 ....when I go to install it in July I was going to ask about grounding... so now I can just read that article you posted thank you!...... I am going to buy four 10 feet long 1 1/4" galvanized pipes at home Depot screw them together ( 40 feet) mount the Big Stick on it I am going to clamp a ground clamp in the bottom of it ... paint the whole thing with rust oleum paint ( sky blue above the house) and paint my light gray Vinal siding color on the piping below the house roof ... give it a couple coats.... including the brand new Antenna. let it dry for a couple days then I'll attach the cable let it hang.... bury a cement block in the ground where I am going to put it then hopefully walk the 57 foot tall rig up to the side of the house and I have four offset clamps that screw to the house and U-bolt to the pipe... I'll put them on loosely then check the SWR... if it looks good I'll climb up 25 feet and drill a hole into the side of the house and start feeding the wire in the tighten everything up.... I was planning on buying a electricians 8 foot grounding rod and hammering it into the ground a couple feet aside of the pipe then clamp a ??? 6 gauge???? 4 Gauge bare copper wire to both... only question ( I'm a licensed plumber) I know sometimes the threaded joints don't make a good electric circuit.... so should I run a ground wire to the top ( 40 feet up) and wire tie it to the pipe so if lightning does hit it, it will certainly go to ground???

 

[niceguy71]

thank you for the advice K4EET ... the roll was brand new the ends are a rubber molded piece over the metal screw pl-259 connections... it is gray ( wish this site let me post a picture) it say's on the side RG8X 95% OEM/USA 95-14400 ....when I go to install it in July I was going to ask about grounding... so now I can just read that article you posted thank you!...... I am going to buy four 10 feet long 1 1/4" galvanized pipes at home Depot screw them together ( 40 feet) mount the Big Stick on it I am going to clamp a ground clamp in the bottom of it ... paint the whole thing with rust oleum paint ( sky blue above the house) and paint my light gray Vinal siding color on the piping below the house roof ... give it a couple coats.... including the brand new Antenna. let it dry for a couple days then I'll attach the cable let it hang.... bury a cement block in the ground where I am going to put it then hopefully walk the 57 foot tall rig up to the side of the house and I have four offset clamps that screw to the house and U-bolt to the pipe... I'll put them on loosely then check the SWR... if it looks good I'll climb up 25 feet and drill a hole into the side of the house and start feeding the wire in the tighten everything up.... I was planning on buying a electricians 8 foot grounding rod and hammering it into the ground a couple feet aside of the pipe then clamp a ??? 6 gauge???? 4 Gauge bare copper wire to both... only question ( I'm a licensed plumber) I know sometimes the threaded joints don't make a good electric circuit.... so should I run a ground wire to the top ( 40 feet up) and wire tie it to the pipe so if lightning does hit it, it will certainly go to ground???

 

[niceguy71]

cable brand for K4EET

 

[mmckenna]

I was planning on buying a electricians 8 foot grounding rod and hammering it into the ground a couple feet aside of the pipe then clamp a ??? 6 gauge???? 4 Gauge bare copper wire to both... only question ( I'm a licensed plumber) I know sometimes the threaded joints don't make a good electric circuit.... so should I run a ground wire to the top ( 40 feet up) and wire tie it to the pipe so if lightning does hit it, it will certainly go to ground???

An 8 foot ground rod is fine. National Electric Code will require bonding that new ground rod to the homes existing ground rod. You don't want two separate/isolated ground rods in your setup.

#6 wire should be fine.

The threaded joints are not going to make a difference if lightning finds your tower. That lightning bolt has shot through thousands of feet of atmosphere, a few mils of galvanization on the threads isn't even going to slow it down.

To meet NEC, you also need to add a lightning protection device where the coaxial cable enters the home. Ground that to the same ground rod your mast is connected to.

 

[niceguy71]

An 8 foot ground rod is fine. National Electric Code will require bonding that new ground rod to the homes existing ground rod. You don't want two separate/isolated ground rods in your setup.

#6 wire should be fine.

The threaded joints are not going to make a difference if lightning finds your tower. That lightning bolt has shot through thousands of feet of atmosphere, a few mils of galvanization on the threads isn't even going to slow it down.

To meet NEC, you also need to add a lightning protection device where the coaxial cable enters the home. Ground that to the same ground rod your mast is connected to.

Damn! I just bought a 100 feet of coax and that should make it to the CB with 20 feet to spare... I think the pipe will be 15 feet above the top of the garage...... so if I drop the coax down 20 feet I can enter the garage there.... so I need a 20 foot piece of coax from the antenna to the lightning protection device ..... then I can go to the CB? ....

 

[niceguy71]

Damn! I just bought a 100 feet of coax and that should make it to the CB with 20 feet to spare... I think the pipe will be 15 feet above the top of the garage...... so if I drop the coax down 20 feet I can enter the garage there.... so I need a 20 foot piece of coax from the antenna to the lightning protection device ..... then I can go to the CB? ....

also .... I have to run a wire ( 6 Gauge ???) from the new ground rod in the back of my house ... around to the front of my house to the original ground rod???..... I have 75 feet of driveway I'd have to go down ( meaning dig up) then cross a 90 foot section of front lawn with sprinklers EVERYWHERE then go under the cement side walk to attach to the old ground rod.... maybe I should call an electrician... but this is getting crazy... only one place to mount the Antenna... and it is as far away as it could be from the old ground rod.. I really need the two ground rods to connect????

 

[mmckenna]

Damn! I just bought a 100 feet of coax and that should make it to the CB with 20 feet to spare... I think the pipe will be 15 feet above the top of the garage...... so if I drop the coax down 20 feet I can enter the garage there.... so I need a 20 foot piece of coax from the antenna to the lightning protection device ..... then I can go to the CB? ....

Correct:

Coaxial cable from the antenna, down the mast to the point it enters your home.
Install lightning protection device.
Coax from that to your radio.

Also, make 100% sure you properly seal all outdoor coaxial connections. UHF coax connectors are not waterproof. Water will eventually find its way inside and will destroy the connector and cable. I'm sure as a plumber you have the skills to keep water in/out of places you don't want it...

 

[mmckenna]

also .... I have to run a wire ( 6 Gauge ???) from the new ground rod in the back of my house ... around to the front of my house to the original ground rod???..... I have 75 feet of driveway I'd have to go down ( meaning dig up) then cross a 90 foot section of front lawn with sprinklers EVERYWHERE then go under the cement side walk to attach to the old ground rod.... maybe I should call an electrician... but this is getting crazy... only one place to mount the Antenna... and it is as far away as it could be from the old ground rod.. I really need the two ground rods to connect????

It's national electric code. It's also a really good idea as you can have a significant potential difference between the two ground rods. Having two separate rods can mean that current can flow from one side to the other, through your power supply/CB with you in the middle. Not a good situation.

A good electrician would be able to find the easiest path to get those two bonded together.