• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

    If you are having trouble legally obtaining software please state so. We do not want any hurt feelings when your vague post is mistaken for a free request. It is YOUR responsibility to properly word your request.

    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

    The various other vendors often permit their dealers to sell the software online (i.e., Kenwood). Please use Google or some other search engine to find a dealer that sells the software. Typically each series or individual radio requires its own software package. Often the Kenwood software is less than $100 so don't be a cheapskate; just purchase it.

    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

    This is a large and very visible forum. We cannot jeopardize the ability to provide the RadioReference services by allowing this activity to occur. Please respect this.

Connection to car battery

BinaryMode

Blondie Once Said To Call Her But Never Answerd
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For that thread stud terminal I'd personalty go with a 3/8" or a 5/16" (which ever the case may be) ring terminal. These are typically UNC (Unified Course).
 

gro34wser

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Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
6
I’ve never tried the ratchet type. I use an older version of these at work. Very easy to get a positive crimp every time.
View attachment 176589

Out of the shop I use tools similar to the ones I linked above. Not ideal for everyday professional work but much better than the pocket knife and pliers work I see on customers vehicles.
I have used a variety of different clamping pliers, both ratcheting and standard. These Snap-On are by far the best I have ever used. I can control the crimp, it usually doesn't damage the insulation and the long handles can give you a lot of power if you want it. I used to do a lot of wiring work on commercial trucks and trailers, and the for important things like this I use terminals that have a shrink wrap insulator that you heat after the crimp, and I also dip the bare copper portion of the wire in die electric grease before installing in the terminal.
 
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