Custom Console 2004 Ford Expedition
- Thread starter JETSEMT-P
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scannermanner1
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Nice !!!!! I like it !!
JETSEMT-P
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. So what is the primary purpose of the 50a relays? Hope you don't mind the questions. Is that something every set up should have?JETSEMT-P
Member
What a relay does is acts as the switch to "gate" your power. Let's say you want to power an accessory (we will say a lightbar in this case). When all lights are on, we will say it draws 30 amps.
You have 2 options:
Option A - run the full power for the bar through a switch in the console. This would require a large switch capable of handling a constant 30 amp current without overheating. This would also require a very large wire almost as big around as a pencil.
Option B - Use a relay.
So you understand how a relay works, there are 4 terminals on a relay.
1. Ground
2. Main power in
3. Main power out
4. "Control" power in
The main power runs into the relay. The relay has a "switch" inside of it that only activates to let the power pass through when you apply power to the "control" terminal. This way you can have a low current switch (like only capable of handling about 1 amp) in your console. This would only require a very small wire. When you turn that switch on, it applies current to the "control" terminal of the relay, which tells the relay to let the current pass through. The switch inside the terminal activates, thus letting the high current flow through the relay.
Relays greatly decrease the chances of fires. Most overheating in a circuit occurs at switches, which are usually the weakest link within the circuit. If you didn't use the relay all of that current would be flowing through the switch in your console. So if it overheats, it's right there in the cab.
Using a relay keeps most of the high current under the hood instead of flowing through the cab. ALSO, if the relay overheats from too much current draw or from a short circuit, it will automatically turn itself off for several seconds. When it cools down, it will turn back on.
Does that clear it up a bit for you? And don't worry about asking questions. That's the whole purpose of this forum. We get to pass on information and teach each other and get ideas of how to improve our work!
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You have 2 options:
Option A - run the full power for the bar through a switch in the console. This would require a large switch capable of handling a constant 30 amp current without overheating. This would also require a very large wire almost as big around as a pencil.
Option B - Use a relay.
So you understand how a relay works, there are 4 terminals on a relay.
1. Ground
2. Main power in
3. Main power out
4. "Control" power in
The main power runs into the relay. The relay has a "switch" inside of it that only activates to let the power pass through when you apply power to the "control" terminal. This way you can have a low current switch (like only capable of handling about 1 amp) in your console. This would only require a very small wire. When you turn that switch on, it applies current to the "control" terminal of the relay, which tells the relay to let the current pass through. The switch inside the terminal activates, thus letting the high current flow through the relay.
Relays greatly decrease the chances of fires. Most overheating in a circuit occurs at switches, which are usually the weakest link within the circuit. If you didn't use the relay all of that current would be flowing through the switch in your console. So if it overheats, it's right there in the cab.
Using a relay keeps most of the high current under the hood instead of flowing through the cab. ALSO, if the relay overheats from too much current draw or from a short circuit, it will automatically turn itself off for several seconds. When it cools down, it will turn back on.
Does that clear it up a bit for you? And don't worry about asking questions. That's the whole purpose of this forum. We get to pass on information and teach each other and get ideas of how to improve our work!
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danieldad
Member
Very nice information on using relays. I lost a couple of radios several years ago because I was lazy, & didn't do it the right way.
won't do that again!
won't do that again!
I am looking at 2 fuse blocks/power distribution blocks. One is from blue sea and has a positive and negative connection. The other, which is cheaper just has a spot for the power wire.
If I go with the cheaper I will have to route all the negative wires to the battery or grounding source. Do I take all the negative black wires and twist them/soder them together and then connect to a single wire that goes to the battery or what do you suggest?
If I go with the cheaper I will have to route all the negative wires to the battery or grounding source. Do I take all the negative black wires and twist them/soder them together and then connect to a single wire that goes to the battery or what do you suggest?
JETSEMT-P
Member
I would tap a screw directly into the floor under the console Put ring connectors on your wires and ground them all right there.
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Tracker
Member
If you want a clean look, run them individually, but as far as performance ......as long as it's a good grounding source,you'll be good to go....
JETSEMT-P
Member
Yes. And it's better to ground them as close as possible. Cuts down on a lot of radio interference as well.
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JETSEMT-P
Member
Lol no problem
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scottyhetzel
Member
Nice work Jet... I love the bluesea stuff...super high quality.. The one with the ground block attached is super nice.. I would run circuit breakers at the fuse block...they reset when you need them most. Run a large power wire to the battery with resettable circuit breakerwithin 18 of the battery...they sell the high amp type at the auto parts store.. As far as ground short as possible...clean non painted metal surface...tight with lock nuts and inter/outer star washers..
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