Yaesu: External speaker for FTDX10?

[SpaceForceCmdr]

Is it worth getting? I can do pretty well with the internal one, but I'm guessing upgrading would be an improvement. I spend more time listening than tx-ing, so sound quality it definitely important to me. Also, is there any interference when transmitting? When I tx now, my powered computer speakers make some noise. Wouldn't want that to happen with the rig's external speaker.

 

[AK9R]

I suggest that spending money on specific branded radio extension speakers is a waste of money. You'll end up with an inexpensive speaker driver in an inexpensive plastic or MDF box.

I see that DX Engineering is asking $180 for the Yaesu SP-30 which is the recommended extension speaker.

DX Engineering also sells this speaker (DX Engineering DXE-281 DX Engineering DXE-281 Communications Speakers | DX Engineering) for $17.

Or, go to your local thrift store and buy a small, used stereo bookshelf speaker for probably less than that. A stereo speaker will have a wider frequency range than a communications speaker, but your radio has extensive receive audio settings (pages 52-53 in the manual) so you can tailor the frequency response to your tastes.

 

[SpaceForceCmdr]

Thanks. Since I'm here, slightly off topic, but does anyone know how I could go about eliminated the noise the comes from my computer speakers when I transmit? They are a pair of Audioengine A5s powered by an internal amp. I could just turn them off, but was hoping to find another solution.

 

[AK9R]

but does anyone know how I could go about eliminated the noise the comes from my computer speakers when I transmit?

Turn them off. Given your antenna issues discussed elsewhere, I suspect that you have lots of RF in the "shack".

 

[GlobalNorth]

I bought an SP-30 for mine and feel like I wasted my money. Unlike a lot of amateur radios, the sound reproduction on a FTDX10 is decent.

 

[SpaceForceCmdr]

Besides the Yaesu external speaker, what would be a better option for maximum intelligibility? I actually have a Polk center speaker lying around, but it's pretty dang big. What about a small, bookshelf speaker? Also, I see the SP-30 is 4 ohms. Would it be a problem to run an 8 ohm speaker with the FTDX? The SP-30 doesn't seem like a big improvement over the internal speaker, it just has a bit more bass.

Also, has anyone tried replacing the SP-30 speaker, but keeping the enclosure. Over on a FTDX10 forum, a guy in Germany found that the Visaton FRS8 fits perfectly, and supposedly sounds better. He also added some baffling inside the empty enclosure.

 

[BMDaug]

If you want a four ohm speaker that’s wider bandwidth than a comms speaker, anything automotive will work. Something like the pioneer ts-f1634r 6.5” 2-way is just $25.55 for a pair… the carpet covered speaker boxes you can buy to put them in are actually more expensive than the speakers themselves but if you’re a decent carpenter or just have a flat panel you can mount it in, you’ll be all set.

You could also use a pair of any standard eight ohm hifi speaker. Wire them in parallel and the radio will see a four ohm load…

-B

 

[vagrant]

I have enjoyed using an 8 Ohm bookshelf speaker for years. It is around 11" x 7" x 7" and provides a reasonably full sound. I think it is some old Radio Shack "Optimus" speaker. I have used it with a Kenwood 590s, Kenwood 480SAT, Yaesu 897D and a Yaesu 991A. It was definitely inexpensive and better than the built-in radio speakers as well as forward firing due to placement. I figure you can find a one off center channel 8 Ohm speaker for a low price.

 

[prcguy]

The Elecraft SP4 speaker was designed by Dr. Bruce Edgar, an actual high end speaker engineer known for his horn designs. I had the pleasure of having several engaging speaker and antenna related conversations with Bruce as he was a member of my local ham club.

The Elecraft speaker is a bit pricy but its purpose designed and built for voice communications.

 

[SpaceForceCmdr]

Cool. I was going to ask about ohms. Using an 8 ohm speaker is OK with this radio (even though the stock SP-30 is 4 ohm)? Also, was wondering about the wattage. Some of the bookshelf speakers I see are 100W. Is the rig going to have trouble driving something like that?

 

[BMDaug]

Power handling isn’t a concern, but you could look at the sensitivity of the speaker (dB/W) to see how well the amp will drive it. This is not really necessary, but that’s the number you would be looking for.

Driving eight Ohms is probably fine, but not ideal. It really depends on the design of the amplifier as to how well it handles various loads. Some amp designs are fine and others, especially tube amps, are very picky. They list an impedance because that’s what the design intends but it may (ow may not) operate under a different load for a long time without any real problems.

-B

 

[SpaceForceCmdr]

I ended up adding some acoustic polyfill and some packing foam I had lying around to the SP-30. I tried to put it in the configuration I saw in the aftermarket kit. TBH, not sure if it made the speaker sound better, but it still sounds good to me. It's just not a ton different from the internal speaker. Also, with the baffling kits or DIY, is it OK to cover the vents at the back of the enclosure?

When I was doing SWL with my SDR, I was listening through a pair of Audioengine speakers, and I liked the way things sounded. So, I'm going to give a small bookshelf speaker a try with my radio. I've got a Polk TSi100 that I'm going to hook up. Worst case, I just go back to using the Sp-30. It's fun to try out different things.

Oh yeah, I did get that Visaton FRS8 speaker that I mentioned earlier, and it looks good, but the positive terminal tab doesn't fit onto the connector in the SP-30. For some reason, both tabs on the SP-30 are small, and the same size. On the FRS8, there is one wider tab, and one narrow one. On top of that, the SP-30 speaker is glued onto the metal plate or something, and I didn't want to do anything irreversible, so I just left well enough alone, and added baffling only.

 

[BMDaug]

Covering the vents or “ports” is fine. You’re changing the enclosure from a ported enclosure to a sealed enclosure. With a full range speaker, this would change your bass response, but with such a limited bandwidth speaker, I’m not sure why it’s ported anyway, except to possibly eliminate some enclosure rattle or something… Anyway, I would think that adding that foam should stop any rattle coming from the plastic enclosure.

 

[SpaceForceCmdr]

Here's the Polk speaker I set up. Seems pretty nice so far, and I think it looks pretty sharp =)