Baofeng Got a BTech UV-50X2 for Christmas

[dkcorlfla]

Only other thing I need to know about is programming and a cable. Is there a recommended programming cable? Should I use Chirp or the BTech software? I’m totally clueless about programming

I seem to recall an issue with the chip set used in some programing cables not getting along with Windows 11. Make sure you double check this if you will be using Windows 11.

Chirp is open source I believe and is available for Windows, Linux and I think Mac.

The BTech software most likely Windows only.

There may another software choice RT systems I think it is called.

Personally I use the OEM software on a dual boot Windows 10 and Linux computer that I only use the Windows for radio programing and keep it off line so it does not update or get malware.

I tried the RT software and did not like it but lots of people do. It is suppose to be easy to use but I found it limiting.

 

[dkcorlfla]

It should. Most HF transceivers are going to use a bit over 20 amps.

The HF transceiver is only going to top 20 amps if you run full power on RTTY. I used a Astron RS-12 to power both my VHF/UHF and HF rig for years at reduced power output. I have since upgraded to a Astron RS-20 and have had no issues with it running FT-8 at 30 watts or so and SSB up to full power. I would think you would have no trouble using the 23 amp power supply for both as long as you don't try a RTTY contest at full power for an extended time.

 

[lbpd16]

The HF transceiver is only going to top 20 amps if you run full power on RTTY. I used a Astron RS-12 to power both my VHF/UHF and HF rig for years at reduced power output. I have since upgraded to a Astron RS-20 and have had no issues with it running FT-8 at 30 watts or so and SSB up to full power. I would think you would have no trouble using the 23 amp power supply for both as long as you don't try a RTTY contest at full power for an extended time.

Is there a particular brand name / good quality programming cable I should get?

BTech pushes their own PC04 cable. It’s about $22 on Amazon

 

[dkcorlfla]

Is there a particular brand name / good quality programming cable I should get?

BTech pushes their own PC04 cable. It’s about $22 on Amazon

A quick search pulled up: from Amazon - "Genuine FTDI Chipset for Reliable Connectivity: Equipped with an authentic FTDI chipset, the PC04 cable stands out for its reliable connection, eliminating the common hassles associated with clone cables. This genuine chipset ensures that the cable is always ready for use with the latest FTDI Virtual COM Port (VCP) Drivers, promising a smooth programming experience without the need for outdated drivers or complicated setup procedures."

From Aliexpress -
"Chipset Prolific PL2303GS"

If you want to use the OEM software it might only work with their cable as it has a different chipset then the cheapo cable.

If you plan to use Chirp then the cheap cable might be fine I don't know for sure as I do not have that transceiver. Running some searches using the cable chipset in question and the transceiver along with the software as keywords should shine some light.

 

[alcahuete]

The HF transceiver is only going to top 20 amps if you run full power on RTTY. I used a Astron RS-12 to power both my VHF/UHF and HF rig for years at reduced power output. I have since upgraded to a Astron RS-20 and have had no issues with it running FT-8 at 30 watts or so and SSB up to full power. I would think you would have no trouble using the 23 amp power supply for both as long as you don't try a RTTY contest at full power for an extended time.

Every one of my HF transceivers tops 20 amps, including on SSB. My 7610 is probably the biggest offender, pulling 23-24 amps at the factory 130w. I normally run an amp, so it really doesn't matter, but I personally don't use anything less than 35 amp supplies for HF. YMMV.

 

[mmckenna]

The good name brand power supplies intended for two way radio often have an "ICS" rating amperage that is higher than the model number amperage.

ICS = Intermittent Communications Service.

ICS covers the 5-5-90 usage for most LMR radio, where they can run a few amps more for short periods of time to cover an additional load from transmitting. A "20 amp" power supply might do 23 amps for short bursts without issue.

Ideally, you have more amperage than what you need and that "ICS" rating doesn't come into play.

 

[lbpd16]

The Samlex 1223 is 23amp with a peak of 25amp for $166 at DX.

For a few bucks more, $183, the Samlex 1235 is 30 amp with 35 amp peak.

Is it worth the extra $ or just overkill for what I’m doing?

 

[lbpd16]

And they have a 1235M, for $180. I guess the M is for meters, 2 on the front

 

[alcahuete]

The Samlex 1223 is 23amp with a peak of 25amp for $166 at DX.

For a few bucks more, $183, the Samlex 1235 is 30 amp with 35 amp peak.

Is it worth the extra $ or just overkill for what I’m doing?

You're almost definitely fine with the 1223, but for $17? I would be all over the 1235.

 

[alcahuete]

And they have a 1235M, for $180. I guess the M is for meters, 2 on the front

Yes, the 'M' models have meters.

 

[mmckenna]

The Samlex 1223 is 23amp with a peak of 25amp for $166 at DX.

For a few bucks more, $183, the Samlex 1235 is 30 amp with 35 amp peak.

Is it worth the extra $ or just overkill for what I’m doing?

For that small price difference, sure I'd jump at the 1235. It never hurts to have more capacity, even if you don't use it. 35 amps will run an HF rig no problem, with room to spare for your other radios.

 

[vagrant]

@lbpd16

1. Get the programming cable recommended by the manufacturer. Download and try out the mfg. free software and perhaps try out CHRIP as well. I use CHIRP with the cheap Chinese radios if the software supports it. One benefit with CHRIP is importing nearby repeaters from RepeaterBook.com. Still, Repeater Book may not be 100% accurate, but it will give you a start. You can later delete repeaters that are no longer online. ( I am assuming you run Windows 10, or 11 )

2. If the 1235 is $17 more, get that one and enjoy the overhead and future proof yourself. I have the 1235M and I think I looked at the meters twice over the last several years. I use a DC clamp meter when I want to really see the numbers, so the regular 1235 is fine all day long.

Looks like you're almost ready. By the way, what state are you located in? Have fun!

 

[lbpd16]

The 1235 m was about $5 cheaper than the 1235.

I’m in Texas

I don’t think the x50a will fit in my attic. So now I have another idea to throw out. If there is some kind of mount I could mount to the roof eve and then put the antenna on the mount when I’m using it and take it down when I’m not. That should get me around any HOA issue since it’s not permanent. And that would give me a super short cable run

Lastly, are there any cable brands to avoid lie maybe some Chinese stuff. Ham radio outlet has “cableexpert” and “abr” brands. The reviews were just so so. DX has their own brand and had great reviews

So many questions

 

[lbpd16]

I’m thinking something like in this photo

 

[lbpd16]

If that does not work I may have to return the X50A and pick up the X30A which is a foot shorter. Ugh

 

[vagrant]

Not sure how long your coaxial cable run will be, but for 50' and less I use the ABR Industries 400 Ultra Flex. Not sure who has it for the lowest price, but it is flexible. The loss is slightly more than standard LMR-400, but this is flexible. I use these coaxial cables when I participate in the ARRL VHF contests each year as I operate on a temporary basis and need an easy setup/takedown solution. Thus, I like the flexibility as I use them on a mast while operating inside my vehicle, trailer, or tent and it's easy to snake inside. If you get something like this, you probably won't need that pigtail due to the flexibility.

As you did not measure yet, what makes you think the X30A will fit, or the X50A will not? You really should measure, or at least try the X50A. It does not have to be mounted on a mast. You could hang it as well using non-conductive material. If it's on the way you might as well experiment when it arrives. Still, the X30A will probably perform better than many magnet mount mobile antennas should you need to go that route.

As to outdoors, if you can go that route why not? Your limitations are your HOA and your mounting creativity. I surely would mount it outdoors, even if I had to figure a lever to angle it horizontal to vertical. Why fight the attenuation and interference of your roof tiles and whatever else?

 

[lbpd16]

Does the antenna need to be verticals or can it have some lean to it? That’s if I put it in the attic

 

[vagrant]

The more you lean your antenna, the more attenuation. Cross polarization is not your friend. Again, if the X50A is on the way, you might as well experiment...even if there is a slight lean.

Everyone's setup and geographic location are different. There are general rules of thumb that are best to follow, but you should experiment. If you can TX/RX clearly to the repeaters in your area, even with a slight lean, that sounds like success.

E x p e r i m e n t

 

[lbpd16]

I just did some measuring. Attic Above my garage is 4 feet max. Attic above the house is about 6 feet. However, it would sit right next to a very large metal ac unit and a bunch of electrical wires running throughout the house.

I think the outside permanent mount and taking the antenna down when not using it is probably gonna be the solution. As long as the antenna is not up all the time I should not have any HOA issues. And my cable run would be short

 

[lbpd16]

This is where I would like to put the mount. My desk is just inside the garage door