I just bought a Grand Cherokee that has the auto start/stop feature. They utilize a separate smaller auxiliary battery for the start/stop function. My question is, can I hook up mobile radios to the smaller battery or do I need to stick to the main, normal size battery(size group 48)? I admit, I'm lazy and don't want to have to pull both out just to install but will if I truly need to. They are both under the front passenger seat and the main battery positive terminal is the furthest away to reach. First car with this pesky auto start/stop and had no idea it had 2 batteries buried under the front seat. Thanks!
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Grand Cherokee install with auto start/stop battery
- Thread starter N5AFD
- Start date
Stick with the main. I would install a fused or circuit breaker protected distribution panel nearby to handle future installs.
Some very good examples in this sub-forum of pro-level power management depicted. And description.
This is, “modern” and applies to LEO, etc.
You’ll find what you need to zero in on what constitutes “best practice”.
The plan is the hard part.
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This is, “modern” and applies to LEO, etc.
You’ll find what you need to zero in on what constitutes “best practice”.
The plan is the hard part.
.
I figured as much. I will definitely be using a distribution panel so it will only be a one time needed access to the battery. I should look at the positive(no pun) and be happy the battery isn't under the hood. Makes running cables much easier since I don't have to fold into a pretzel to run wires through the firewall.
I tried to search for a similar situation with the aux battery but didn't really find much. Just true dual battery set up scenarios.
Planning is definitely the hard part. Luckily, I'm not in a hurry since it's 150 degrees in Fort Worth so any installs will be done a bit later in the year. Plus, it seems like every time I buy a new car, I buy new radios for it so need to figure out that piece of the puzzle as well.
I tried to search for a similar situation with the aux battery but didn't really find much. Just true dual battery set up scenarios.
Planning is definitely the hard part. Luckily, I'm not in a hurry since it's 150 degrees in Fort Worth so any installs will be done a bit later in the year. Plus, it seems like every time I buy a new car, I buy new radios for it so need to figure out that piece of the puzzle as well.
Hi, neighbor. My pickup has learned patience the install has taken so long.
0630 - 0930 isn’t bad, and 1930 - 2030 same. Anything chipped away in those four hours is gold this time of year.
Did you see it got down to a chilly 85F at 0400?
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As starting batteries weaken the voltage drop during cranking will dip below the threshold of the radio and cause a reset. This is especially aggravating with start/stop vehicles. Your ability to use the main battery is a plus for this aspect.
Haha, yeah, I did feel the chill when I took the pups out.
That is a very good point. I was hoping to save some effort but the potential aggravation of taking short cuts isn't worth it. Just gotta keep things simple and do it the way I know will always work. Like I said above, going to use a distribution block so it's just a one and done battery hookup.
That is a very good point. I was hoping to save some effort but the potential aggravation of taking short cuts isn't worth it. Just gotta keep things simple and do it the way I know will always work. Like I said above, going to use a distribution block so it's just a one and done battery hookup.
I have a Jeep with stupid start/stop. Hate it. Anyway you can search some Jeep forums about it and see how they are connecting radios. When the system engages at a stop and the engine shuts off the vehicle accys are run from the small batt and when you let up on the brake the big batt starts the engine. At all other times the two batteries are in parallel, which is a bad idea since they are two completely different types of batteries.
When it’s time to replace batteries in my truck I’ll get one battery bigger than the stock big one and take out the small one, then jumper the two points that are separated when the engine is off with a 30A fuse or circuit breaker. Fortunately the battery tray will accommodate the next size up battery from stock.
When it’s time to replace batteries in my truck I’ll get one battery bigger than the stock big one and take out the small one, then jumper the two points that are separated when the engine is off with a 30A fuse or circuit breaker. Fortunately the battery tray will accommodate the next size up battery from stock.
mmckenna
I ♥ Ø
Many years ago I did an install in a Chevy Malibu that had a starting battery under the hood that did the engine cranking and a smaller battery in the trunk for accessories while the engine was in it's off state.
Running to the non-starting battery worked fine for a 50 watt VHF radio. When engine was on/alternator spinning, it charged the smaller battery, but disconnected it when the start/stop feature did its thing. Never had any issues with it.
Often you'll read about people hooking up in vehicles that have a single battery with the start stop feature. Often, they'll tap into existing wiring and have issues with voltage drop when the engine cranks and the radio would reset.
I have a new Chevy pickup that has that. Wiring direct to the battery doesn't result in any issues with a Harris mobile restarting.
Trick with all mobile installs is to do it right the first time, and don't tap existing wiring.
Running to the non-starting battery worked fine for a 50 watt VHF radio. When engine was on/alternator spinning, it charged the smaller battery, but disconnected it when the start/stop feature did its thing. Never had any issues with it.
Often you'll read about people hooking up in vehicles that have a single battery with the start stop feature. Often, they'll tap into existing wiring and have issues with voltage drop when the engine cranks and the radio would reset.
I have a new Chevy pickup that has that. Wiring direct to the battery doesn't result in any issues with a Harris mobile restarting.
Trick with all mobile installs is to do it right the first time, and don't tap existing wiring.
Can't help with the battery wiring questions. I've seen guys in the Durango forum where I hang out (I have a 2023 Durango R/T which is the same chassis as the JGC 2011–2021) talk about taking the bolts out that hold the seat to the floor and tilting the whole seat backwards to gain good access to the battery well.
Just did a 2024 and removed seat. Its only 4 bolts and took 5 minutes. Then hooked main cable to positive lug on battery. I use a battery impact so manual may take longer.
N4KVE
Member
No actual proof, but I will never start a car with the radio on. Big inrush of current when you let go of the key. The radio in my car comes on with the ign sense, but I’ve got an 8 second delay that keeps the radio off until the engine is running. I’d bypass the start/stop feature instead. Took me a minute to do that on my wife’s new Hyundai, & cost nothing. I basically took a small piece of a matchbook cover, & wedged it in the start/stop switch to keep it depressed all the time. The start/stop function hasn’t worked since.
Radio plus lead directly to battery unless the vehicle has an available Aux circuit like the Wrangler Rubicon are equipped with. If the radio has an ignition sense circuit it's your call if you want the ignition to switch the radio on/off or by the radio power switch. In all cases, the ground lead must go to a chassis grounding point.
You have to be careful with this. On Ford vehicles (and probably others as well), there is a very specific point at which to connect your radio ground lead, in order to avoid problems with the Battery Monitoring System. Any old place on the chassis isn’t suitable any more.
Likewise (issues with BMS), connecting directly to the negative post of the battery is also a no-no.
In regards to Fords, especially the later model Crown Vics were a good example. Only used the factory grounding points. The Fords were notorious for EMI noises.
