Help building OD Antenna

ovalnut

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Hey guys, I'm hoping you can steer me the right direction in case I'm off course.

I purchased the L-com HGV-906U. I'll be aiming for the Hippie Hill Farm control channels at 771Mhz. (Grundy,TN)
I plan to use LMR240UF for the entire cable run because I already have holes in the side of my house from TV coax and don't really want to waller them out anymore. It will be around 40 feet of cable.

When I went to antenna farm and tried to build a cable I was overwhelmed.

I will need an N-Male for antenna side and BNC Male on other end for scanner side.

To save a little $ I'm thinking TerraWave CON-07-240 for N and TerraWave CON-12-240 for BNC..?

A few lingering uncertainties is with the connectors already installed I may have to do a little wallering. (this is undesirable, some of it is brick)
If one cable end is left uninstalled ill have to crimp it myself and I've never done it. Is there one easier than the other?

Also, I'm unsure how flexible 240uf is and if i should be connecting straight to scanner.

Any input is appreciated, I'm very new at this.


Thanks!
 

mmckenna

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Hey guys, I'm hoping you can steer me the right direction in case I'm off course.

I purchased the L-com HGV-906U. I'll be aiming for the Hippie Hill Farm control channels at 771Mhz. (Grundy,TN)
I plan to use LMR240UF for the entire cable run because I already have holes in the side of my house from TV coax and don't really want to waller them out anymore. It will be around 40 feet of cable.

When I went to antenna farm and tried to build a cable I was overwhelmed.

I will need an N-Male for antenna side and BNC Male on other end for scanner side.

To save a little $ I'm thinking TerraWave CON-07-240 for N and TerraWave CON-12-240 for BNC..?

Never used that brand. I mostly use RFI at work.
For RX use and not a lot of installing/disconnecting, they'll probably be fine for what you are doing.

A few lingering uncertainties is with the connectors already installed I may have to do a little wallering. (this is undesirable, some of it is brick)
If one cable end is left uninstalled ill have to crimp it myself and I've never done it. Is there one easier than the other?

Installing your own connectors would get around this, but unless you have the right tools and experience, that's probably not a path you want to go down. It takes some skill to do right, and skill comes with practice. Plus, the tools to do it can be expensive.

Unless you want to switch to RG-6. Yeah, I know, it's 75Ω cable, but it would work. There's not a huge difference in loss and sometimes making the install easier is worth it. Plus, being able to cut to the exact length you need can save you some cable.

Also, I'm unsure how flexible 240uf is and if i should be connecting straight to scanner.

Should work fine. So would RG-6.

Any input is appreciated, I'm very new at this.

You really should consider installing a lightning protection device where the cable enters your home. It is required by National Electric Code and it does serve a safety purpose. It will add complexity to the installation and it must be done correctly.

Also, make 110% sure all your outdoor connections are properly sealed. Use proper coax sealing tape, not just a few wraps of electrical tape. Not point in damaging the antenna/cable just to save a few bucks.
 

ovalnut

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Installing your own connectors would get around this, but unless you have the right tools and experience, that's probably not a path you want to go down. It takes some skill to do right, and skill comes with practice. Plus, the tools to do it can be expensive.

Unless you want to switch to RG-6. Yeah, I know, it's 75Ω cable, but it would work. There's not a huge difference in loss and sometimes making the install easier is worth it. Plus, being able to cut to the exact length you need can save you some cable.
Thanks for the reply, If i were to go with RG-6 I would still have the connector issue to deal with correct? Or does it come with a standard connector that's small enough to route through the existing holes, where i could then just use an adapter on each end?
 

mmckenna

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Thanks for the reply, If i were to go with RG-6 I would still have the connector issue to deal with correct? Or does it come with a standard connector that's small enough to route through the existing holes, where i could then just use an adapter on each end?

Sorry, I should have elaborated….

Installing F and BNC connectors on RG-6 is super easy and the tools to do it are not expensive:

Connector:

Cable prep/strip:

Connector installation tool:

Using those tools/connectors, it's almost fool proof to do a connector installation. Just run your bare cable through the wall and install the connector on the end.

They do not make N connectors that install this way, so using a good quality BNC to N connector would be required. Not ideal, but it'll work. Just make sure you seal all your outdoor connections very well.

You might want to get a few F connectors and install one of these where your coax enters the house, to meet NEC requirements:
 

ovalnut

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Sorry, I should have elaborated….

Installing F and BNC connectors on RG-6 is super easy and the tools to do it are not expensive:

Connector:

Cable prep/strip:

Connector installation tool:

Using those tools/connectors, it's almost fool proof to do a connector installation. Just run your bare cable through the wall and install the connector on the end.

They do not make N connectors that install this way, so using a good quality BNC to N connector would be required. Not ideal, but it'll work. Just make sure you seal all your outdoor connections very well.

You might want to get a few F connectors and install one of these where your coax enters the house, to meet NEC requirements:
Thanks for this, big help. It puts everything together in my mind.
I'll go with the RG-6 I think.
 

mmckenna

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Thanks for this, big help. It puts everything together in my mind.
I'll go with the RG-6 I think.

Yeah, I think that's a good plan.

LMR-240 would perform slightly better, but if you are reluctant to drill a bigger hole, you'll have to install your own connectors. While not impossible, it's something you need the right tools for. Even with the right tools, you'd want to practice a few times to make sure you get it right. That gets a bit expensive.
And then you may be stuck with tools that you may never use again (not necessarily a bad thing…)

If the feed through hole was for TV/CableTV/Satellite, then getting RG-6 through should not be an issue.
With those tools I linked to, you'll always have a way to do your own TV/Satellite stuff. Plus, you can make your own jumpers if you decide to add more radios down the road.
Or, just sell them...

Good luck!
 

prcguy

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I use and recommend the L-Com HGV-906U antenna. In my opinion, since the OP shopped and purchased a specific 800MHz antenna I would use at least LMR400 coax. For the 40ft run the original choice would give about 3.04dB loss. LMR400 would be 1.56dB or 1.48dB less loss. RG-6 varies with mfr and one of the better Belden RG-6 variants would be about 2.28dB loss for 40ft plus loss from mismatch between a 50 ohm radio and antenna and the 75 ohm coax, I'll estimate .75dB loss for a total of 3.03dB or similar to LM240.

Since you seem to want the best reception use a good coax like LMR400 and don't skimp. I would also use an N male connector at the antenna and an N female at the radio with a short 1ft jumper of RG-58 at the radio. If you can solder and follow instructions you can get nice silver plated connectors with gold pins for about $3 but you will need a crimper for any coax you will install connectors on.
 

mmckenna

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Holes come and go, no big deal. We all just want the OP to be happy with his radio reception, isn't that what we're here for?

Yep.

Some are allergic to drill bits, though.

At 700MHz, I'd want LMR-400 or better, holes be damned. Maybe if the OP can find another way to route the cable, like though a soffit vent, basement, crawlspace, etc.
 

ovalnut

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20250103_180222.jpg


About half an inch. I could waller out the mortar somewhat but would hate to get into the the 90 year old brick...
Its my decision at this point I guess..
 

mmckenna

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About half an inch. I could waller out the mortar somewhat but would hate to get into the the 90 year old brick...
Its my decision at this point I guess..

Yeah, LMR-400 should fit through there without a connector.

How close is that hole to where your scanner is? If it's close, just use a smaller cable to make the final connection.

You still have the challenge of installing a connector, though.
 

ovalnut

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Yeah, LMR-400 should fit through there without a connector.

How close is that hole to where your scanner is? If it's close, just use a smaller cable to make the final connection.

You still have the challenge of installing a connector, though.
The hole is approximately 4-5ft away from where the scanner will sit inside.
Smaller cable to make the final connection is an option. I was trying to use as few adapters/connections as possible to minimize loss but maybe its worth it to do lmr400 to the hole at least. I didn't realize LMR400 was only .405" OD. I thought i read somewhere it was .900.
So, its LMR prefab with ends installed then RG-58(?) for the final 4-5 feet.
 

prcguy

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The hole is approximately 4-5ft away from where the scanner will sit inside.
Smaller cable to make the final connection is an option. I was trying to use as few adapters/connections as possible to minimize loss but maybe its worth it to do lmr400 to the hole at least. I didn't realize LMR400 was only .405" OD. I thought i read somewhere it was .900.
So, its LMR prefab with ends installed then RG-58(?) for the final 4-5 feet.
When installing the coax run it down past the hole about 6" to the side so it comes up into the hole from below leaving a drip loop. You can run it into a wall plate with a double female N connector then run smaller cable from the wall plate to the radio if its not too far.
 

mmckenna

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The hole is approximately 4-5ft away from where the scanner will sit inside.
Smaller cable to make the final connection is an option. I was trying to use as few adapters/connections as possible to minimize loss but maybe its worth it to do lmr400 to the hole at least. I didn't realize LMR400 was only .405" OD. I thought i read somewhere it was .900.
So, its LMR prefab with ends installed then RG-58(?) for the final 4-5 feet.

It's not so much the cable, as the connector on the end. Unless you want to tackle terminating cable, you'll need a hole about 7/8" to get an N or UHF connector through.

The Green Guy above has a good point about a wall plate, but you still need the hole embiggened to fit the connector through. Drilling a hole isn't a bad thing, and drilling through brick/mortar is about as hard as slicing off some room temperature butter.

Or, run the LMR-400 down to the hole in the wall, and then transition to a smaller cable with a BNC on the end. A male BNC is about 9/16" diameter. Or, use a SMA connector, and that'll fit through the hole no issue.

Lots of ways to do this. Drilling the hole a bit bigger isn't going to cause your house to collapse, and it's super easy to plug the hole if you change your mind. Seriously, drilling the hole is the easy part here.

I understand not wanting to drill, but seriously, it would be worth it.
 
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