Good advice here on using foam backer if the hole is too big. I would also recommend routing the coax down away from the hole and if it needs to go up jog to one side a few inches below the hole then go up. You can use cable clamps on the coax held down to the bricks or mortar with blue self tapping masonry screws.How much of a gap is there?
If it's a small gap, just use some exterior rated silicone sealer.
If it's a large gap, you can buy foam backer rod to shove in around the cable then some silicone seal, or use expanding foam sealer
You can also use "duct plug", which is a clay like substance used to seal around conduits/cables, and can be found in the electrical department of a large hardware store.
My duct seal says John’s Manville on it. I think it’s got asbestos in it.
The good stuff!My duct seal says John’s Manville on it. I think it’s got asbestos in it.
This sounds like a solution....mostly concerned about keeping bugs out. The hole itself will be under a deck and will not be exposed to much water other than sea fog!If the hole to seal is a larger than two or three coax diameters, go to Lowes or HD. In the electrical dept. you can find some service entrance sealing putty. It comes in a gray block about 1"x4"x2". Its used for where the meter mains enter the house wall. Knead it till soft and pack it in. It won't turn rock hard over time and is durable. Also allows you to pull it out if you need to. May not work well if your coax is being moved or flexed at the entry point by wind.
I found some but it says not for outdoors.....it would be under the deck with very little rain drips if any......think it will be OK....is yours outside?15 years ago, I used electrical putty to seal where my electrical service cable entered the house wall. It is like plumber's putty, and forced it into the quarter inch gap to completely close it off and just used my fingers to finish off the outside. Nice and neat, remained in place, and it never got hard or brittle. In fact I still have half of the little brick I bought out in the barn. I think it is still pliable and usable.
I believe I got it at Home Depot
First drill the hole upwards from the outside to keep water from dripping in, a time-proven telephone company method. Won't even need to seal the hole. After you drill the hole, wipe out any dust with damp rag to remove dust that acts like a powdered mold release. I prefer to use latex caulk that's "re-enterable" for future work.I would like to seal the gaps around the coax.....best suggestions for sealing?
If you put in a ground pole, do you connect that to the power company ground? Isn't it dangerous if you don't?First drill the hole upwards from the outside to keep water from dripping in, a time-proven telephone company method. Won't even need to seal the hole. After you drill the hole, wipe out any dust with damp rag to remove dust that acts like a powdered mold release. I prefer to use latex caulk that's "re-enterable" for future work.
Drill your hole under a window because you'll know where the vertical studs are on either side of the window. Pick a spot several inches above or below the inside wall electrical outlets to avoid house wiring.
I've seen installers use a plastic plug on outside wall that was designed for inside wall routing for coax, but it rots away from sunlight.
Use a drop loop below the hole. Between the bottom of drip loop and entrance, I peel off half inch of the plastic sheath and attach #8 ga ground wire with radiator clamp (not to tight to crush the dielectric) then seal it with self-curing mastic and Scotch 33. I do the same for CAT 5 cables.
If you put in a ground pole, do you connect that to the power company ground? Isn't it dangerous if you don't?
Exactly, learned this during lightning investigation back in the 80s while working for a CATV company. Differently a point of differential potential!National Electric Code requires that the new ground rod be bonded to the existing electric meter ground rod. Not doing so can result in difference of potential.