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Antenna Location - What Say You?

rocknbil

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Joined
Jan 10, 2025
Messages
29
- CB: Cobra 29 LTD Classic
- Antenna: Sirio Boomerang A
- Mount: 18" offset for boom on hand OR direct to balcony post in option 2.
- Usage: Hobbyist chat up, SHTF contingencies (Cobra can run off a 12VDC car battery) I don't need to talk to China. :ROFLMAO:

Precursor: I know it's not the best antenna or CB. I am just starting out, but have read more than I care to about setup of a home based antenna.
Environment: We are about halfway up on a gentle slope from the valley. Suburban subdivision. Mountains at least 10 miles North, 20+ miles South. Nearly all of the subdiv is single story homes so we're above most buildings.
Physical Setup Goals: Path of least resistance (pun intended) and not pulling a swan dive from the roof. Rigging the ground wire is going to be the most challenging part.

Which of these three would you suggest as the "best" mounting option for my first stab at it?

Option 1:
South face of the house, as close to the peak as I can reach standing on the garage slope (looks to be about 4' from peak.)

Pros:
- Probably best location as it faces south with at least 20 miles to any mountains.
- Well away from trees or other obstructions
- Second highest point access (see option 2)
- Note the red arrow. If you visualize following the garage, the house ground is at the front corner. This would be the closest location to the house ground.
Cons:
- Have to drill through the attic space, then through the ceiling in the upper floor of the room where the CB will be located
- Roof climbing, attic crawling, ladder wobbling
- Antenna will be more difficult to access for tweaks or adjustments
- No "good" location to pound in the primary ground stake (All concrete walkways around house/garage)
- I may get a call from the HOA due to visibility (probably not, but it's a consideration)

balcony-south.jpg

Option 2: North face of the house, right at the peak

Pros:
- Note the red arrow in the second pic and look close, you will see the security camera wires. They go over the peak and enter the house at the spare room on the other side. I can use this same entry point for the coax (length of coax wired well away from these wires except entry point)
- Closest location to where the CB will be located (less wire length)
- Less likely to get a call from HOA, less visible from street
- I can mount a shorter boom from the wall right at the peak with 18" standoff brackets, higher than south side
Cons:
- As above, more difficult to access for antenna adjustments
- Will require the most amount of ground wire to get to the primary stake, THEN have to join house ground wire, almost all the way around house
- Mountains still over 10 miles to the North, some trees just out of view but this is still above them

north-house.jpg

Option 3: Straight up balcony post
In between these two in the rear of the house is the balcony off the master bedroom. I can secure a telescoped boom (heavier bottom, thinner near top) right from this post. In the below pics, the red lines show intent - it will be close to the corner of the post but can be secured from the back side as well.

Pros
- Can take the boom and antenna down for adjustments without risking breaking my neck
- Boom can likely go high enough to get over the house with light guy cables attached to house and balcony (non-metallic)
- Hidden from street view, no calls from HOA (or decreased probabilities anyway)
- I had planned to put spark arrestors on the coax, I can disconnect them at standing height during electrical storms (we get spectacular ones here) so strikes can't travel into the house
- Coax can take the same route as option 2, over the peak and into the second spare room (I'm sure wife would be opposed to a base station in the bedroom :ROFLMAO: )
Cons:
- Will definitely not get the height I would get out of #1 and #2
- Primary stake can go in the ground very near the boom but will have to join the house ground all the way around the front, either all the way around concrete or under the house
- Will require longer coax wire to go along the balcony and over the house peak to enter the house
- Trees within 30' behind the house if you're looking off the balcony to the East, no buildings

balcony.jpg
balcony-up.jpg

At this point I'm thinking I should try option 3 simply because if it doesn't work out I can move it later and the setup cost will be far less (how much coax, how much ground wire, how lucky am I to not pull a Humpty-Dumpty.) What say you?

Friendly reminder, I know it's not the best antenna so . . . TIA.
 
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slowmover

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Aug 4, 2020
Messages
3,107
Location
Fort Worth
That’s one great opening post!

And while it may give up some performance to other antennas, it’s not a bad choice given location problems. There are encouraging words to be found with not much effort.

This is the shorter version I’ll work with as it fits my storage constraints. Info on both with links:


.
 

rocknbil

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2025
Messages
29
Get 2 10 ft pieces of chain link top rail. Mount antenna on those. Hose clamp the mast to the corner of the balcony railing. Hook up coax and you are on the air.

What about grounding though? We also have high winds here. Example just last week one blew through and knocked everyone's recycle bins over, paper everywhere, looked like a war zone. It's probably going to need way more than a clamp to the balcony corner.

Info on both with links:

Heh . . . that was one of the articles/posts that convinced me to go with the Sirio over the Anton 99.

Seeing it played out with pictures, I'm beginning to lean toward option 3 just because of height. I can also run the coax into the house and down through the ceiling without much effort.

I'm also thinking on running the ground wire through the attic and back out the other side. In my research it seems like this is not a dangerous thing to do. Just so much wire!
 

dave3825

* * * * * * * * * * * *
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I had planned to put spark arrestors on the coax, I can disconnect them at standing height during electrical storms (we get spectacular ones here) so strikes can't travel into the house

So when you disconnect it, will any wire still be coming out of the house?
 

rocknbil

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Joined
Jan 10, 2025
Messages
29
So when you disconnect it, will any wire still be coming out of the house?

The idea was a short coax down the antenna, spark arrestor, coax to the house, spark arrestor before entry, CB. I would disconnect the arrestor where it comes out of the antenna so, no connection to the antenna into the house. That was the plan, anyway.
 

mmckenna

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The idea was a short coax down the antenna, spark arrestor, coax to the house, spark arrestor before entry, CB. I would disconnect the arrestor where it comes out of the antenna so, no connection to the antenna into the house. That was the plan, anyway.

That won't necessarily solve the issue. It's not just the antenna getting hit by a direct strike that is the only concern. Even a nearby strike and induce a lot of energy into the mast, antenna, and/or coaxial able. Enough to do damage.

You'd want to disconnect where it enters the house. The lightning protection device needs to be at the point where the coax enters the home. Having one at the mast base won't protect the rest of the run, and it's kind of pointless. Just having one at the entrance point to the home is sufficient.
Ideally, you should have the coax shield grounded where it transitions off the mast. You can do that with a grounding kit and not waste money on the LPD.

Mast should be grounded to a ground rod directly under it.
That ground rod -must- be bonded to the house ground rod. National Electric Code requirement.
The coax should be grounded where it transitions off the mast to the ground rod.
The Lightning Protection Device needs to be grounded to the same ground system as the home and the mast.

Disconnecting the coax where it enters the house is still a good idea if that's an option. But in the event you are not home and a storm rolls through, you still want everything done correctly.
 

rocknbil

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2025
Messages
29
You'd want to disconnect where it enters the house.
So what I'm gathering is unless I want to climb on the roof to disconnect it the point of entry needs to be low enough to reach it . . . likely under the house. I have to noodle this one, it presents even more physical challenges (and wire,) thanks!
 

slowmover

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Aug 4, 2020
Messages
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Location
Fort Worth
I’d look at SIRIO 2008 ahead of Antron/Imax as dollar value which’ll stand up to strong winds and ice. Make as comparison default as you read around.

See @robertwbob comments here on RR


IMG_7527.jpeg


Approx 20’ tall & 4’ radials.

.
 

mmckenna

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So what I'm gathering is unless I want to climb on the roof to disconnect it the point of entry needs to be low enough to reach it . . . likely under the house. I have to noodle this one, it presents even more physical challenges (and wire,) thanks!

Or, just not disconnect it. Do the proper grounding and equipment per NEC. Nothing will ever be 100% lightning proof. Even without the antenna, there's enough plumbing/wiring/vent ducts in your house to be an issue if lightning decides your home is its target.
 

slowmover

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So what I'm gathering is unless I want to climb on the roof to disconnect it the point of entry needs to be low enough to reach it . . . likely under the house. I have to noodle this one, it presents even more physical challenges (and wire,) thanks!

BOOMERANG a balcony antenna. Or, like mine, on a painters pole standing in a 5-gal bucket. Put away when not in use.

Something I want to leave up (even inexpensive and uncomplicated) I’d follow procedure.

.
 
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slowmover

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Or, just not disconnect it. Do the proper grounding and equipment per NEC. Nothing will ever be 100% lightning proof. Even without the antenna, there's enough plumbing/wiring/vent ducts in your house to be an issue if lightning decides your home is its target.

Agreed.
 
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