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Homebrew Crypto Keyloader Cable for 5300 series?

W0VNE

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I've had some success for the KFDMini (And the Arduino KFD hat) to program the 5100 series handhelds using a modified cable for the Motorola XTS-5000. I would really like to find a schematic or pin list for the Mobile 5300 / 53ES of what signals need to be connected to the Data, Ground (and sense if it needs that) on the KFD. If anyone could help me out it would be greatly appreciated. *Note I'm not set up to use Hirose Cables nor do I really want to buy a KVL connector which probably costs more then I've spent on both KFD devices.
 

W0VNE

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you will have to dig around.
Well I've of course seen this doc and other then it telling me what cables that go to other cables but give no pin outs for the radio's end or signal names I've not been able to gather enough clues to attempt making a cable. The obsession with getting it to go to the Hirose connector on the Motorola KVL keyloader (And thus have access to their expensive connectors) is not my cup of tea.

I see that EBay had a $60+ cable for the KFD Arduino but they don't have any in stock. I posted a pin out that worked for the EFJ 51xx series handhelds which was data and ground to the right connections on the EFJ side connector. This is really what I'm looking for. I've dug through schematics of all the service manuals I have for the 53xx series mobiles and it seems to have a lot of generic names signals in the newer versions that I suspect are what have to pulled up / down to put it into keyload mode. Anyway - hopefully someone who has made up a working cable can share their results.
 

otobmark

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Probably need a service manual with schematics. Or someone with a manual taking time to look it up for you.
 

TurboTony

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Feb 16, 2025
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You can get the service manuals on here: Files

I ordered connectors and cables to keyload my 5800 using a KFD micro. The plan is to make a 3.5mm to Hirose cable. Then make my own "AC104" cable linked on the github: KFDtool/doc/TWI_CABLE_ASSY_NOTES.md at 1.8.3 · omahacommsys/KFDtool

You could do it straight through from 3.5mm to the rj45 connector but I think it's easier (and cleaner) to solder the diode onto the hirose solder cups.
 

W0VNE

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I wonder if its easier to look at the Motorola Doc on the KVL keyloader instead? Obviously not in a rush over this but still surprised its not somewhere on the web. I did see there is a model number for a Crypto Key loading cable which obviously is different from one to do firmware and code plugs.
 

W0VNE

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Nov 11, 2015
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Still having no success in figuring out a proper cable to go from the KFD Mini to an EF Johnson 53ES or 5300. There are three signals I suspect have to but pulled high or low to put it into keyload mode which I guess I could play around with. Another signal Keyfail N which is maybe something the SEM Keyloader from EFJ uses? At least once in Keyloading mode (With the proper pins low) the 5100 series is just Data and Gnd. Tried looking for some sort of table that spells out what PTG0-2 do but... Anyway there were two cables for programming Keys into the 53xx EFJ part numbers 585-5000-938 and 023-5000-950. They both have some sort of "pod" in the cable. Looked for one of these to take apart but so far no soap.
 

W0VNE

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Found a Lightning head (from a 700/800 MHz) ver 6 53ES radio but it seems to have either a dead backlight or? There is something I'm not doing right. Removed it and put it on a VHF 53SL ES radio and made up a cable to go to my normal 13 pin Hirose connector and was able to read/write to the radio. Selected Lightning head and programmed the first bank of function keys and pressing backlight seems to work but no audio (So am wondering if there is some jumper needed) In any even I managed to order the wrong cable which I "hacked" up so I could plug it in. Have the correct cable on order. I have what seems to be the right pinout for the Lightning head but in all my piles of EFJ stuff the only thing I have are a few field service notices and the pages on the 53ES manual that talk about the Lightning head. I didn't wire it for keyloading but it seems obvious how to do that.

So my question is does anyone have anything doc wise on the lightning head other then the pin out of the mic connector?
 

W0VNE

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Nov 11, 2015
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Update. No speaker in the front of the lightning head (DUH) so I guess that part is explained, I picked up the actual correct 12 pin connector(s) from Digikey for the lightning head and bought an (uGH) 700/800mhz Lightning head radio off Ebay yesterday to fiddle with. I think the Crypto cable connections look obvious but we will see.
 

W0VNE

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Ok, long delay in this so sorry to anyone following the thread wondering if something useful from me would ever come out. The proper connector for programming the lightning head is

HR30-8P-12PC(71)
DigiKey Part Number HR586-ND
Manufacturer Hirose Electric Co Ltd
Manufacturer Product Number HR30-8P-12PC(71)
This seems to fit and work properly. *NOTE you need to order pins for the connector! I strongly suggest getting the PDF on the proper sequence of how it goes together its not super obvious and a royal pain in the ass to take apart.
The pin out for the lightning head is

Pin 1 KEYFILL (Data from whatever version of the KFD your using)
Pin 2 NC
Pin 3 Ground
Pin 4 NC
Pin 5 KEYLOAD (Wire to ground puts the radio into keyload mode)
Pin 6 BUSY (Used to program channels/etc nothing to do with Keyloading)
Pin 7 SWITCHED 12V *Power to run programmer boxes
Pin 8 PTT
Pin 9 RS-485M (Used to program channels/etc)
Pin 10 Mic Audio
Pin 11 Hanger
Pin 12 RS-485P (Used to program channels/etc)
If your wiring to one of the various KFDs they generally have Ground, Data and Sense. For the 5300 and Lightning head you only need Data and Ground. You don't need to do anything with Sense and can leave it float.

The connector for the 53xx series radio is
DigiKey Part Number HR1258-ND
Manufacturer Hirose Electric Co Ltd
Manufacturer Product Number RP13A-12PE-13SC(71)
Description CONN PLG HSG FMALE 13POS INLINE
*NOTE you need to order pins for the connector! I strongly suggest getting the PDF on the proper sequence of how it goes together its not super obvious and a royal pain in the ass to take apart.

The pin out for the (Normal 5300 or 53ES *Ver 6 with the Oval Speaker)
Pin 1 KEYFILL (Data from whatever version of the KFD your using)
Pin 2 RX-AUDIO
Pin 3 Ground
Pin 4 MIC4 *???
Pin 5 KEYLOAD (Wire to ground puts the radio into keyload mode)
Pin 6 MIC6 *???
Pin 7 BUSY (Used to program channels/etc nothing to do with Keyloading)
Pin 8 SWITCHED 12V *Power to run programmer boxes
Pin 9 PTT
Pin 10 RS-485M (Used to program channels/etc)
Pin 11 MIC AUDIO
Pin 12 HANGER
Pin 13 RS-485P
If your wiring to one of the various KFDs they generally have Ground, Data and Sense. For the 5300 and Lightning head you only need Data and Ground. You don't need to do anything with Sense and can leave it float.

Personlly I hand crimp the lead from a 1/4 resistor to the pin, hand crimp and solder it so that it can fit into the connectors. Then I solder the cable wires to the clipped off resistor wire and heat shrink them. Both connectors are very tight fits and getting them in is almost as much trouble as extracting one.

Hopefully this will save people from buying the KVL premade up cables that typically cost more then the KFD keyloaders. Thanks to everyone who hung in there while I sussed this out. Will try to post something about the various KFD keyloaders and how to make them all work have gotten the Arduino Hat version, a Chinese made KFD mini from EBAY and the W3AXL KFD Micro all working. It seems that the issues are two fold. Getting the right Firmware (if needed to be loaded) into the device and using the latest KFDToolGui (Version 1.8.7 or newer) which works with all the KFD devices I've tried and on the Chinese made KFDMini finding the non standard 3.5 TRRS Phono Jack that is 17mm rather then the normal TRRS plug that is 15mmg tip to base. *Anyone with leads on how to obtain more of these weirdo 17mm TRRS jacks? And WHY someone would do this SIGH... Saw a video about these Chinese KFDMinis being all bad which I learned is not true but... Won't work with any connectors I can find. At least not without taking a normal 15mm plug and physically grinding them down 2mm. Which works but what a pain in the ass.

One last comment on the 53ES series versus the Lightning head. I can verify that if you pull the front panel off the 53ES you can swap directly in the front panel of a Lightning head and it seems to work fine.
 
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