• To anyone looking to acquire commercial radio programming software:

    Please do not make requests for copies of radio programming software which is sold (or was sold) by the manufacturer for any monetary value. All requests will be deleted and a forum infraction issued. Making a request such as this is attempting to engage in software piracy and this forum cannot be involved or associated with this activity. The same goes for any private transaction via Private Message. Even if you attempt to engage in this activity in PM's we will still enforce the forum rules. Your PM's are not private and the administration has the right to read them if there's a hint to criminal activity.

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    To obtain Motorola software see the Sticky in the Motorola forum.

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    For M/A Com/Harris/GE, etc: there are two software packages that program all current and past radios. One package is for conventional programming and the other for trunked programming. The trunked package is in upwards of $2,500. The conventional package is more reasonable though is still several hundred dollars. The benefit is you do not need multiple versions for each radio (unlike Motorola).

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Kenwood TK-890 to 8180 setup on motorcycle

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kayn1n32008

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Thank you Ram,



Apparently there’s a few KPGs that are assigned to the 8180, I just grabbed the first. After installing the KPG-89D (there were 3: vanilla, v1.02, v1.10). One has to install as Admin due to its installation in Windows protected area.



So this looks like the right tool, next to know what function values are needed to run the remote front panel and PTT


All you have to do is install the remote kit. It is transparent to the radio.




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Well for one you have the wrong software for that model. You need to have KPG-89DN to be able to program a 8180.

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Thank you Ram,

Apparently there’s a few KPGs that are assigned to the 8180, I just grabbed the first. After installing the KPG-89D (there were 3: vanilla, v1.02, v1.10). One has to install as Admin due to its installation in Windows protected area.

So this looks like the right tool, next to know what function values are needed to run the remote front panel and PTT

All you have to do is install the remote kit. It is transparent to the radio.




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The KRK-10 cable handles the base to remote interface, and the accessory cable is for the headset and PPT switch, yes?
 

kayn1n32008

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The KRK-10 cable handles the base to remote interface, and the accessory cable is for the headset and PPT switch, yes?


Yes. The ‘accessory cable’ will be the one that connects to the DB-25 on the rear of the RF deck. The remote cable connects to the front of the RF deck.


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kayn1n32008

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I see there’s different functions for Input and Output pins


DB-25 connections:

Pin 4: PTT(one wire here and the other to ground from the existing remote PTT switch
Pin 7: Ground
Pin 6: Mic (Tx audio from headset to radio)
Pin 17: Rx audio(from radio to headset)

In ‘Edit’ select ‘Extended Function/Aux Tab’:

Set DB-25 pin:

4: Input, Ext PTT

In ‘Extended Function/Modulation Tab’,

-MIC PTT: Mic Line=Connect, MI2=connect, DI Line=disconnect, QT=Yes, STE=Yes

-External PTT(Voice): Mic Line=disconnect, MI2=Connect, DI Line=disconnect, QT=Yes, STE=Yes



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ramal121

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DB-25 connections:

Pin 4: PTT(one wire here and the other to ground from the existing remote PTT switch
Pin 7: Ground
Pin 6: Mic (Tx audio from headset to radio)
Pin 17: Rx audio(from radio to headset)

In ‘Edit’ select ‘Extended Function/Aux Tab’:

Set DB-25 pin:

4: Input, Ext PTT

In ‘Extended Function/Modulation Tab’,

-MIC PTT: Mic Line=Connect, MI2=connect, DI Line=disconnect, QT=Yes, STE=Yes

-External PTT(Voice): Mic Line=disconnect, MI2=Connect, DI Line=disconnect, QT=Yes, STE=Yes



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Pin 17 receive audio really doesn't have the nut to drive most helmet speakers. You would need to add an external speaker and tap into that for receive. If there is an audio amp for the headset receive you're good, but usually not. You can also add the KAP-2 board inside and switch speaker audio from the head to another connector that will come out the back of the radio by a programmed button on the head.

The MIC PTT line should have MI2 as Disconnect. You really don't want two live mics from one PTT source. Although if using the palm mic the helmet is probably disconnected from the bike anyway.
 
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I picked up the Horn Alert/P.A. Relay Unit (KAP-2 : Option) new for $25 + SH, just as insurance per RAM’s admonition. Apparently that too is enable by the programming utility and has a pigtail cable that exits the rear of the radio base next to the accessory port.
 

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Would a gracious forum moderator please remove the “890” from this threads title, as it was ignorance and a mistake on my part and is confusing to the content.
 

n3obl

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I would look for version 1.61 software. Thats one of the latest versions.
 
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Getting there.

Tx/Rx checks out
 

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Hmmm updating the radios firmware...
Wonder ifni need it
 

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mmckenna

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Unless the people you are working with require that you use some sort of radio ID/Push To Talk ID, like FleetSync or MDC-1200, do not use it. It'll just annoy the crap out of everyone else.


Basically what it's telling you is that the firmware in the radio is old and won't support MDC-1200. If you really need to have it, you can update the radio firmware.

But, best to leave things alone if it's all working.
 
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“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”
Yup, I belong to that and the KISS club.

Thanks for the advice gents.

The KAP2 board comes soon in the mail.

I’m waiting on a fork base with a RAM ball, and an articulating arm to a 6.5x2” rectangular base to mount the remote control/display head to. Still need a helmet comms set and mound the radio.
 
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I have two antennas, both in the 400-520mhz range, one is 2 foot or so whip with a spring winding in the middle, and the other a stubby 2 inch tall coiled one. Both work in the table, but I wonder which is better on the road. The whip looks cooler but makes putting a cover on harder.
 

mmckenna

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Depends on what sort of coverage you are looking for.

The longer antenna will be more efficient and likely get you longer range.
If short distance communications is what you are looking for, the shorter antenna might be a better solution to eliminate interference.

"Better" can mean a lot of different things depending on what you need. I can tell you that a 2 inch tall UHF antenna is going to be very inefficient.
 
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