• Effective immediately we will be deleting, without notice, any negative threads or posts that deal with the use of encryption and streaming of scanner audio.

    We've noticed a huge increase in rants and negative posts that revolve around agencies going to encryption due to the broadcasting of scanner audio on the internet. It's now worn out and continues to be the same recycled rants. These rants hijack the threads and derail the conversation. They no longer have a place anywhere on this forum other than in the designated threads in the Rants forum in the Tavern.

    If you violate these guidelines your post will be deleted without notice and an infraction will be issued. We are not against discussion of this issue. You just need to do it in the right place. For example:
    https://forums.radioreference.com/rants/224104-official-thread-live-audio-feeds-scanners-wait-encryption.html

Looking to get into Shortwave

ka3jjz

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#21
True; for a bit more money, the SDRPlay models and the more expensive Elads seem to be enjoying some popularity. However, depending on your RF Environment (and your antenna), you might need to add some additional filtering (or use a passive preselector) to eliminate MW or FM overloading, as some of these RF Sticks have little to no front end filtering.

We have a lot of information on Software Defined Radios (SDR) in our wiki here...

http://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Software_Defined_Radios

Mike
 

MrThompson

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#22
I've been recovering from a motorcycle accident and have been restricted to a chair in our master bedroom. Not being there much I forgot to mention the CommRadio CR-1 which is a SDR Radio. I have one next to my easy chair in the family room. We also have a 7030 Plus in the corner bookcase bi-wired to a Linn Kann, wonderful audio. The CR-1 has many of the same characteristics mentioned in my earlier post. Highly recommended. Please read the conclusions in the R-75 review link for some additional background on audio and DX performance.

The problem with getting into shortwave is just like anything else, you always wonder what you are missing and it ends up in GAS , gear acquisition syndrome. If the OP gets serious about DX audio recovery is extremely important for signal copy. I would highly recommend looking into a receiver that has both good RX and good audio. Over the years my wife has come to understand this. She'd rather have me spend the money once on the best we can afford than take all the expensive interim steps.

Regarding the R-75 review I believe the Lowe HF-150 used may have had a compromised front end. My HF-150 with Craig's Kiwa audio mods and solid binding posts is nearly as good as the 7030 Plus for extreme DX. It works best running barefoot without the preselector. For reference the 7030 Plus often keeps up with a Collins HF-2050 and sometimes with my R390A's.
 

TailGator911

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#23
Over the years my wife has come to understand this. She'd rather have me spend the money once on the best we can afford than take all the expensive interim steps.
It's nice to have a wife who understands the hobby and the expenses it can incur, and be understanding to the addiction that develops. We both look at it from a very fundamental perspective - she has her expensive hobbies and I have mine and we both have a mutual respect for each other's interests. A wife without a clue may very well take 'I'm thinking about getting into shortwave' as a hint that you might be purchasing a Sony-type big dial portable shortwave radio, and that misunderstanding can easily escalate as we all know. A commitment to the hobby is not only a prerequisite mental outlook, but also an understanding of just what you are getting yourself into.

JD
kf4anc
 
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#24
Just wondering where OP went and what are his intentions after all these suggestions. All due respect but it seems typical in RR that an OP will solicit advice then "ghosts" altogether. It'd be nice if once in a while an OP would at least give something back.
 
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799
#25
I have the Radio Shack DX-398, and the Sangean ATS-909X. I have had trouble with both of them. The tuner on the 909X jumping a few Kz at a time when trying to tune in SSB is very frustrating for what it costs. I use my R-75 mostly. Have not one bad thing to say about it. It was a good investment years ago when I bought it. Too bad they decided to discontinue it.
Squirt some tuner cleaner (or DeOxit) down the side of the DX-398's tuner shaft. Then turn the shaft. Do it again. Turn the shaft. There is enough play in the shaft to allow tuner cleaner to get through and clear oxidation off the contacts.

I discovered this trick while trying to figure out how to get my DX-394 to tune in both directions, instead of just up. The tuner-cleaner-down-along-side-the-shaft trick fixed the problem.

Another Sangean owner on here, who has a 909X, did the same thing with good results.
 
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#27
DeOxit yes. Tuner cleaners NO.
I don't know what chemicals DeOxit contains, but it isn't available locally. On the tuner shaft of my 909X I used Nexxtech contact and head cleaner, which contains isopropanol, isobutane and propane. The problem was solved, and hasn't recurred since October of last year. In fact, the tuning dial is even more stable now than it was brand-new out of the box.

The Nexxtech product is carried by The Source, a subsidiary of Bell Canada, formerly Radio Shack. I'm not sure if the product was originally carried by Radio Shack as well, but they no longer operate here.
 
Last edited:

TailGator911

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#28
I fixed a sticky tuning dial on my old Icom R71 that I cleaned with a silicone-based lubricant called Break-Free CL (cleaner lubricant), which worked very well. I use it on everything, guitars, radios, fishing reels, guns, you name it - great stuff and a better alternative to WD40. Made my tuning dial spin like it was on air.
 
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#29
I fixed a sticky tuning dial on my old Icom R71 that I cleaned with a silicone-based lubricant called Break-Free CL (cleaner lubricant), which worked very well. I use it on everything, guitars, radios, fishing reels, guns, you name it - great stuff and a better alternative to WD40. Made my tuning dial spin like it was on air.
I would be careful about using silicone-based products on classical guitars. Silicone lubricants are fine for lubricating the machine heads, but it's been my experience that silicone can deteriorate the strings, which are nylon. It can also harm certain types of finishes.
 

TailGator911

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#31
I would be careful about using silicone-based products on classical guitars. Silicone lubricants are fine for lubricating the machine heads, but it's been my experience that silicone can deteriorate the strings, which are nylon. It can also harm certain types of finishes.
Thanks much for the suggestion/warning. I only use Break-Free lubricant on the machine head gears and pot shafts, adjustable bridge, metal parts only. I use Dunlop 6582 Ultra-Glide on strings, Dunlop 6554 Lemon Oil on fretboards, and a touch of Johnson's Baby Powder on the back of my neck. Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes for after ;)

JD
kf4anc
 
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#32
Thanks much for the suggestion/warning. I only use Break-Free lubricant on the machine head gears and pot shafts, adjustable bridge, metal parts only. I use Dunlop 6582 Ultra-Glide on strings, Dunlop 6554 Lemon Oil on fretboards, and a touch of Johnson's Baby Powder on the back of my neck. Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes for after ;)

JD
kf4anc
I did a double-take on that baby powder, as I first pictured you using it on the back of your own neck, not the guitar's. :LOL:

My classical (and only) guitar, which is now 48 years old, has a very durable lacquer finish, so I stopped using polishes of any kind on it and merely wipe it down with a slightly damp cloth. It stays shiny. The fretboard is ebony, but I've never tried lemon oil on it, as it would get on my fingers and the strings, hampering my playing.

Anyway, sorry about wandering off topic into my other hobby.
 

MrThompson

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#33
Tuner cleaners are solvents and most often lead to more oxidation over time, exacerbating the problem. Deoxit contains a protective lubricant to prevent oxidation.

Never, ever spray tuner cleaner into a noisy pot. You wii ruin it, it. The pot will sound better for a short period of time and then go to poopoo as the contacts deteriorate. Deoxit on the other hand may save the day.
 

MrThompson

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#34
Silicon lubricant's creep, i.e. they end up spreading everywhere. They are not suitable for electronics. A little synthetic oil, Mobil 1 works wonders and lasts for years.
 
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#35
I have Deoxit D5 and if you over-apply it it will migrate too. It's best to apply it to a Qtip or even a slight amount on a flat toothpick. A tiny bit goes a long way. Good stuff.
 
Joined
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Messages
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#36
Tuner cleaner on pots, yeah -- maybe not a great idea. Point taken on the later oxidation, though. Was not aware of that possibility.

Either way, the tuner mechanism on a Sangean 909 is not a potentiometer. It is a small rotary device with contacts. The contacts oxidize. I've used tuner cleaner in the past (on my DX-394) and it still works fine.

On my DX-398 (Sangean 909) I think I used DeOxit instead. It took a couple shots to get it worked down past the shaft to the mechanism. I would agree that in any case, DeOxit is preferable.

RE: guitars: the only 'spray' or oil or whatever I use is WD-40 (or an equivalent) on electric guitar strings (some gets on the frets and fretboard -- no big deal) and oil on tuners that aren't closed (i.e., cheap with gears). I agree that with nylon strings any lubricant is a bad idea.
 
Joined
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SoILL
#38
Squirt some tuner cleaner (or DeOxit) down the side of the DX-398's tuner shaft. Then turn the shaft. Do it again. Turn the shaft. There is enough play in the shaft to allow tuner cleaner to get through and clear oxidation off the contacts.

I discovered this trick while trying to figure out how to get my DX-394 to tune in both directions, instead of just up. The tuner-cleaner-down-along-side-the-shaft trick fixed the problem.

Another Sangean owner on here, who has a 909X, did the same thing with good results.
Unfortunately my 909X met with an accident. I knocked it off of my basement bench and the LCD display is mostly black now. I just keep it tuned to the last local FM station I was listening to. I really liked the SSB on it but cannot use it for that anymore. And my DX-398 has a bad internal antenna connection so it receives then doesn't. I've had it apart and cannot find the sore spot.
 
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
104
Location
SoILL
#40
Any thoughts on the GRUNDIG Satellit 750 picked on up at a yard sale for 50 new in box
You won't get hurt for $50. I bought one new a few years ago and I found its performance horrible for what I was using it for even with a long wire. Maybe it's just me being picky. I sent it back to where I bought it from.
 
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