Teambudjr
Member
Going on some long trips and I would like to know if the accessory (lighter plug) will handle the power needed to operate a CB or even a 2mm ham radio ??? Not looking for a permanent installation. Thanks
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Modern day cigarette lighter plug 2022 GMC Terrain
- Thread starter Teambudjr
- Start date
- Status
it will entirely depend on the current load of the radio you use. What units are you thinking of?
Most vehicles I'v seen in the last 30 years will be fused for 10a @ 12vdc via the accessory plug. You can find the information for your vehicle in the owners manual in the fuse section. Some vehicles that I've seen where the have multiple outlets on the same fuse could be fused higher.
A small CB radio like the Uniden Pro510XL is documented to draw about 1.7a on transmit, which is the time the unit will draw the most current. You would have no problem using it on a plug connector.
I would be leery about larger radios via the accessory plug, as they will heat them up and over a long enough time at high enough loads they will melt plastic, blow fuses or start electrical fires.
I have kept a lighter plug to screw terminal adaptor around for many years for very intermittent use, when I need 12v in the cab for something. I wouldn't count on it for ever, but for one off, in a pinch, use it works just fine.
If you're using a 2m radio and are on the road, you'll likely need more than the 5w +/- minimum wattage most radios have and you'll need more than a cigarette lighter plug will deliver. I would take the time (or spend the money) to have a direct line from the battery to the inside of the vehicle. If you don't have the radio in the vehicle all the time, you can tuck the cord under the dash or under the floor mat to get it out of the way.
The bottom line is, ham radios generally need a direct line to the battery.
The bottom line is, ham radios generally need a direct line to the battery.
Anything over 5 amps on a cig lighter plug will start to heat it up and risk melting...or worse. The max rating label on it just tells you when the fuse blows.
Use a power setting on your ham radio to limit its current consumption to 5 amps or less to play it safe.
Use a power setting on your ham radio to limit its current consumption to 5 amps or less to play it safe.
slowmover
Active Member
Cigar Lighter radio power.
1. Too much noise introduced. (Always).
2. Wiring not meant for a transceiver. (Period).
Deceptive (tempting) as most radio use is RX. (Low volt draw).
Test:
A. Best transceiver life + performance is with a 3% voltage drop (.5V) or less with silent dead-key.
If — nothing spoken with mic gain backed all the way down at key-up — wiring can’t handle volt-drop requirement in extended key-down (IMO), it’s a bad idea.
— Frankly, it’s not hard to run a dedicated (quiet) 12VDC Positive from BATT to passenger compartment. Negative goes shortest distance to ground point.
Details apply, but it’s just a plan list of some supply. Getting thru firewall is usually easy (existing).
— Ran one for my sons SUV install last year and most of the time spent was using far too much wire to lay out best routing (following existing and retaining slack). Installed in split-loom and secured to existing wire bundles back to firewall and across to under a glove box hole plug. Cut an X and went through. Under carpet (where feet, etc, don’t interfere) to alongside console. NEG to seat bolt (cleaned of paint to bare metal).
(Used BLUE SEA MBRF fuse at Battery).
— Only have to do this ONCE so take the time with routing. (Secure every 12-18” as possible; I use zip ties).
This doesn’t require that the radio is already permanently mounted (though it’s best). I’ve strapped radios to console lid’s, etc, in temp arrangements prior to buying the radio that will be permanent to the vehicle. So long as radio isn’t loose and wiring can’t get tugged it’s good-to-go.
Routing coaxial cable is more time-consuming.
But, just the power, nah, that ain’t nothing assuming common sense in use.
FWIW, in the big trucks I’ve sometimes routed coax out the passenger window. How do you make that work? I cut some memory foam about 1.5” x 1.5” x window width and cut a hole near window rear large JUST large enough to press-fit a 1” diameter piece of PVC (any hard material works) to run coax thru with slack sufficient to sorta open/close that door.
Antenna System is the game (totally), so a HIGH QUALITY mag-mount antenna is where performance is found for a temp set-up
SIRIO 5000
Wilson 5000
These are tall enough to REALLY make the most of ANY radio, and especially low-dollar radios.
Best antenna plus low-dollar radio usually (like, ALMOST ALWAYS) outperforms big dollar radio and shortie, low-quality antenna.
EXTERNAL SPEAKER: is an enormous aid to deciphering what’s being said. But where to mount it? Easiest spot is under the front of the drivers seat (Velcro bottom and zip-tie top) if you’ll get a public service speaker (fire trucks, etc) where rugged build and great audio is paramount. They can be heard.
— I bought a lot of five used KENWOOD KES-5 last year ($60) and they are the ticket (as are the better known MOTOROLA examples. Take very little input to BE LOUD).
Plan storage of gear NOW. I use Harbor Freight APACHE brand foam-lined transport cases to store radio & speaker plus mic, etc. Dedicated & permanent. Fool-proof. Temp install equipment will almost always get damaged moving in & out regularly. Antenna whip can go in a piece of PVC and mag-base plus coax kept in a zip bag.
Why?
The highway AM-19 problem is ears sufficiently good to hear other (not good) radio rigs when problems are out ahead.
Avoidance of herd behavior (is the whole thing in a nutshell).
— It doesn’t do a man much good to roll up to a five-mile traffic backup (or, worse) where only then does he hear about it on the radio.
As one who’s livelihood is made traveling the USA I want options knowing about problems occurring with which to best utilize my efforts:
1. I may stop and buy fuel, have lunch. Take a nap. If it’s bad enough (multiple fatalities, etc) I may end my day there and then. Start early tomorrow.
2. Or, more commonly, I usually reconnoiter an alternate route (diversion) with the help of local & regional drivers familiar with moving a big truck on those nearby roads. A Commercial Motor Carrier Atlas plus GPS are aids. Conversing with other men WHO ARE ALSO PREPARED is the essence of best radio practice. (I also want to avoid how WAZE or Google is re-routing the brain-dead car drivers).
CB Radio (11-Meter) is a heckuva tool. But minimal radio rig installations give many (thousands, millions?) the wrong impression and they conclude it isn’t worth it.
Friend, what you put into it you’ll get back many, many, many times.
.
1. Too much noise introduced. (Always).
2. Wiring not meant for a transceiver. (Period).
Deceptive (tempting) as most radio use is RX. (Low volt draw).
Test:
A. Best transceiver life + performance is with a 3% voltage drop (.5V) or less with silent dead-key.
If — nothing spoken with mic gain backed all the way down at key-up — wiring can’t handle volt-drop requirement in extended key-down (IMO), it’s a bad idea.
— Frankly, it’s not hard to run a dedicated (quiet) 12VDC Positive from BATT to passenger compartment. Negative goes shortest distance to ground point.
Details apply, but it’s just a plan list of some supply. Getting thru firewall is usually easy (existing).
— Ran one for my sons SUV install last year and most of the time spent was using far too much wire to lay out best routing (following existing and retaining slack). Installed in split-loom and secured to existing wire bundles back to firewall and across to under a glove box hole plug. Cut an X and went through. Under carpet (where feet, etc, don’t interfere) to alongside console. NEG to seat bolt (cleaned of paint to bare metal).
(Used BLUE SEA MBRF fuse at Battery).
— Only have to do this ONCE so take the time with routing. (Secure every 12-18” as possible; I use zip ties).
This doesn’t require that the radio is already permanently mounted (though it’s best). I’ve strapped radios to console lid’s, etc, in temp arrangements prior to buying the radio that will be permanent to the vehicle. So long as radio isn’t loose and wiring can’t get tugged it’s good-to-go.
Routing coaxial cable is more time-consuming.
But, just the power, nah, that ain’t nothing assuming common sense in use.
FWIW, in the big trucks I’ve sometimes routed coax out the passenger window. How do you make that work? I cut some memory foam about 1.5” x 1.5” x window width and cut a hole near window rear large JUST large enough to press-fit a 1” diameter piece of PVC (any hard material works) to run coax thru with slack sufficient to sorta open/close that door.
Antenna System is the game (totally), so a HIGH QUALITY mag-mount antenna is where performance is found for a temp set-up
SIRIO 5000
Wilson 5000
These are tall enough to REALLY make the most of ANY radio, and especially low-dollar radios.
Best antenna plus low-dollar radio usually (like, ALMOST ALWAYS) outperforms big dollar radio and shortie, low-quality antenna.
EXTERNAL SPEAKER: is an enormous aid to deciphering what’s being said. But where to mount it? Easiest spot is under the front of the drivers seat (Velcro bottom and zip-tie top) if you’ll get a public service speaker (fire trucks, etc) where rugged build and great audio is paramount. They can be heard.
— I bought a lot of five used KENWOOD KES-5 last year ($60) and they are the ticket (as are the better known MOTOROLA examples. Take very little input to BE LOUD).
Plan storage of gear NOW. I use Harbor Freight APACHE brand foam-lined transport cases to store radio & speaker plus mic, etc. Dedicated & permanent. Fool-proof. Temp install equipment will almost always get damaged moving in & out regularly. Antenna whip can go in a piece of PVC and mag-base plus coax kept in a zip bag.
Why?
The highway AM-19 problem is ears sufficiently good to hear other (not good) radio rigs when problems are out ahead.
Avoidance of herd behavior (is the whole thing in a nutshell).
— It doesn’t do a man much good to roll up to a five-mile traffic backup (or, worse) where only then does he hear about it on the radio.
As one who’s livelihood is made traveling the USA I want options knowing about problems occurring with which to best utilize my efforts:
1. I may stop and buy fuel, have lunch. Take a nap. If it’s bad enough (multiple fatalities, etc) I may end my day there and then. Start early tomorrow.
2. Or, more commonly, I usually reconnoiter an alternate route (diversion) with the help of local & regional drivers familiar with moving a big truck on those nearby roads. A Commercial Motor Carrier Atlas plus GPS are aids. Conversing with other men WHO ARE ALSO PREPARED is the essence of best radio practice. (I also want to avoid how WAZE or Google is re-routing the brain-dead car drivers).
CB Radio (11-Meter) is a heckuva tool. But minimal radio rig installations give many (thousands, millions?) the wrong impression and they conclude it isn’t worth it.
Friend, what you put into it you’ll get back many, many, many times.
.
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slowmover
Active Member
Some vehicle RF BONDS are also highly recommended (mobile might as well be called always noisy). The horizontal surfaces (hood, etc) as well as a pair for the exhaust piping (before & after converter).
Across door hinges, trunk/hatchback hinges.
Flat 1/2” or 3/4” tinned woven copper braid (ELECTRIDUCT, a source) with #10 sheetmetal screws and very aggressive star washers.
Vehicles may be welded unitized, but assume RF potentials aren’t consistent due to adhesives, etc, in use.
You can do your car a fine service in also upgrading DC Grounds and adding a few more.
RF BOND and DC GROUND are not the same for those unfamiliar.
Almost every other conceivable category is covered in:
Mobile Install Bible
— I suggest you look over the section on Vehicle Wiring.
.
Across door hinges, trunk/hatchback hinges.
Flat 1/2” or 3/4” tinned woven copper braid (ELECTRIDUCT, a source) with #10 sheetmetal screws and very aggressive star washers.
Vehicles may be welded unitized, but assume RF potentials aren’t consistent due to adhesives, etc, in use.
You can do your car a fine service in also upgrading DC Grounds and adding a few more.
RF BOND and DC GROUND are not the same for those unfamiliar.
Almost every other conceivable category is covered in:
Mobile Install Bible
— I suggest you look over the section on Vehicle Wiring.
.
The owners manual states that the outlets have a 20amp rating. You may not be able to run max power on your radio, but you should be fine. Yes, that's undoubtedly the rating of the fuse, but you cannot tell me that a major automobile manufacturer would use wiring good for 5 amps and put a 20 amp fuse on the circuit. In spite of what some believe, companies like GM generally try to *avoid* lawsuits and vehicle recalls.
Totally up to you, but I'd believe the manufacturer's publication over random folks on the Internet.
Would a permanent installation be better? Oh sure. But don't let anyone tell you what you are looking to do isn't a viable option.
slowmover
Active Member
The manufacturer to believe is Motorola.
The cigar lighter outlet itself can be a problem, then less-than-stellar wire splices & connections back to origination.
Who’s the random guy on the Internet? (Allen Applegate is well-known and highly regarded).
Noise is guaranteed and, IMO, risk is unacceptable compared to the low-cost, low effort proper installation.
Acting as though a couple of hours of work is a burden (maybe a couple of hours) to get clean, quiet, trouble-free power is wrong advice.
Took me more than two hours just to remove a 50’ combined-length 15A 6-AWG tinned-copper ANCOR power harness ($120) from the Kenworth a couple of days ago.
There’s no substitute for best performance.
And when it’s E-Z to do . . ?
.
The cigar lighter outlet itself can be a problem, then less-than-stellar wire splices & connections back to origination.
Who’s the random guy on the Internet? (Allen Applegate is well-known and highly regarded).
Noise is guaranteed and, IMO, risk is unacceptable compared to the low-cost, low effort proper installation.
Acting as though a couple of hours of work is a burden (maybe a couple of hours) to get clean, quiet, trouble-free power is wrong advice.
Took me more than two hours just to remove a 50’ combined-length 15A 6-AWG tinned-copper ANCOR power harness ($120) from the Kenworth a couple of days ago.
There’s no substitute for best performance.
And when it’s E-Z to do . . ?
.
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RFI-EMI-GUY
Member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2013
- Messages
- 7,468
Cheaper cigar lighter plugs can be problematic in that they can short out internally and take out the fuse. I had this happen on a trip once and finding the proper fuse on the road was a problem. If you are going to wire your own, get the plugs from a marine supply store and expect to pay more for a better plug. Motorola used to sell one that was heavy duty.
The Yaesu FT-90R pulls 9.5 Amps at high power. Running mine at the 20 watt setting, I can easily reach any repeater in the county with a decent mobile antenna. I am currently using a COMPACtenna. I have used this setup with other antennas in different vehicles for about 20 years with no problems.
slowmover
Active Member
Sustained use heats the wiring. 10A is nearly always 10-AWG for a combined circuit length of 10’ (3% voltage drop) to have any margin to account for poor connections, corrosion, etc.
A CB doesn’t have the circuitry to run well on dirty or marginal power.
The CB Problem is that the vast majority of other users have poor or bad installations. Hear, and Be Heard means one must put more effort into the details of installation.
The OP will do as he will — and so will those who’ve accepted lesser performance as being adequate — but convenience flies in the face of wanting the radio in the first place.
My annual 100k mile/3k hours of CB use while underway with a radio rig made good as I can make it reveals there was previously A LOT of information I was missing.
Something notable on-air catches my attention today and I repeat back the info, my radio comes alive with requests to again repeat what others close by never heard in the first place.
Cigar lighter will work. So what?
With a CB one is diligent about the details as the radio needs the quietest possible environment for just DECENT results.
GREAT results will take more.
Cigar Lighter doesn’t even equal DECENT.
A year or so back I used a rental SUV from Chicagoland back to Fort Worth with my backup radio & a cheap external speaker thru a mag-mount. Bought a Wilson cigar lighter cord.
What a joke. It bore no worthy comparison to the Peterbilt I just got out of. Yet was a vehicle that should have yielded BETTER results with a lot less work.
On a familiar high-volume commercial-traffic set of Interstates — on a pair of work days with early starts (I followed my workday routines and routing) — I heard almost nothing.
Not 2/3 less, but worse. Just on the immediate road. Nothing at all from adjacent roads or worksites. (Reduce percentage accordingly).
.
A CB doesn’t have the circuitry to run well on dirty or marginal power.
The CB Problem is that the vast majority of other users have poor or bad installations. Hear, and Be Heard means one must put more effort into the details of installation.
The OP will do as he will — and so will those who’ve accepted lesser performance as being adequate — but convenience flies in the face of wanting the radio in the first place.
My annual 100k mile/3k hours of CB use while underway with a radio rig made good as I can make it reveals there was previously A LOT of information I was missing.
Something notable on-air catches my attention today and I repeat back the info, my radio comes alive with requests to again repeat what others close by never heard in the first place.
Cigar lighter will work. So what?
With a CB one is diligent about the details as the radio needs the quietest possible environment for just DECENT results.
GREAT results will take more.
Cigar Lighter doesn’t even equal DECENT.
A year or so back I used a rental SUV from Chicagoland back to Fort Worth with my backup radio & a cheap external speaker thru a mag-mount. Bought a Wilson cigar lighter cord.
What a joke. It bore no worthy comparison to the Peterbilt I just got out of. Yet was a vehicle that should have yielded BETTER results with a lot less work.
On a familiar high-volume commercial-traffic set of Interstates — on a pair of work days with early starts (I followed my workday routines and routing) — I heard almost nothing.
Not 2/3 less, but worse. Just on the immediate road. Nothing at all from adjacent roads or worksites. (Reduce percentage accordingly).
.
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slowmover
Active Member
Can come from a LOVES Travel Center:
1). Split black/red apart and cut off all but 18” of black.
2). Cut short the fuse holder end you’ll attach to Battery.
3). Splice other end to 3-pin power cord (Red).
4). Route FROM battery to interior location following existing wire bundles as possible. Find unused or close firewall penetration. “Measure twice, cut once”. (Have adequate slack to radio location).
5). Secure with zip ties after casing in 1/4” split-loom or similar.
6). Secure to Batt after locating seat bolt or firewall lug to attach NEG to bare metal.
Test for 12VDC (not with radio until antenna system installed).
— Better yet, make the same from ANCOR 10-AWG using proper ratchet-crimp & heat-shrink terminals. (West Marine) as that’s the Do It Once & Do It Right method.
.
1). Split black/red apart and cut off all but 18” of black.
2). Cut short the fuse holder end you’ll attach to Battery.
3). Splice other end to 3-pin power cord (Red).
4). Route FROM battery to interior location following existing wire bundles as possible. Find unused or close firewall penetration. “Measure twice, cut once”. (Have adequate slack to radio location).
5). Secure with zip ties after casing in 1/4” split-loom or similar.
6). Secure to Batt after locating seat bolt or firewall lug to attach NEG to bare metal.
Test for 12VDC (not with radio until antenna system installed).
— Better yet, make the same from ANCOR 10-AWG using proper ratchet-crimp & heat-shrink terminals. (West Marine) as that’s the Do It Once & Do It Right method.
.
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slowmover
Active Member
The antenna system means the most. But clean quiet power should have been a given.
Wow.
I think your intentions are honorable, but your replies are very difficult to understand.
I think you are overlooking one critical item here. The OP specifically said " Not looking for a permanent installation ". He just wants to go on a trip and throw a CB and ham rig for his trip then remove it. You went quite above and beyond what he was looking for.
It's really simple. Throw in the CB and the ham rig, keep the power to 20 watts or less and enjoy the road trip.
The owners manual states that the outlets have a 20amp rating. You may not be able to run max power on your radio, but you should be fine. Yes, that's undoubtedly the rating of the fuse, but you cannot tell me that a major automobile manufacturer would use wiring good for 5 amps and put a 20 amp fuse on the circuit. In spite of what some believe, companies like GM generally try to *avoid* lawsuits and vehicle recalls.
Totally up to you, but I'd believe the manufacturer's publication over random folks on the Internet.
Would a permanent installation be better? Oh sure. But don't let anyone tell you what you are looking to do isn't a viable option.
My advice was based on meeting the criteria of keeping it temporary and safe.
It's well known that auto cigarette lighter outlets and plugs don't handle anything over 5 amps with out some sort of heat buildup. The plugs will get very warm and can deform/melt.
A 3 minute long winded transmission with a 50 watt ham rig will heat up that connection pretty quick. If anyone doesn't believe me, please try it. Transmit with high power for 3 minutes, then pull out the connector and see how warm it is. Some get so hot you can't touch them.
I have found 25 watts to be a good wattage to stick to if running by cigarette lighter and keep it safe(r).
My intentions with my advice was to allow the OP to do what he was looking to do without the need for a fire extinguisher to be user later on during his trip. I am not going to recommend him run his equipment in a way that can put him and his family's safety in question.
Some auto manufactures also claim "lifetime transmission fluid". No need to ever change it. Right.
Feedback from master auto mechanics would prove otherwise. Have you ever seen the wiring harness that actually supplies power to a cigarette lighter ? It can be scary.
When I bought my present car, I had a Motorola CDM that needed to be installed, but not right away. In the meantime, I hooked up a cigarette lighter plug to it and ran it off what is called today the 'Accessory Power Outlet," for receiving only, until I got it installed.
I accidentally hit the mic button one time but, fearing a blown fuse, was surprised to hear the repeater go up with no interruption. I attempted a few other mic presses, including a few long ones, all successful.
It turned out that the "Accessory Power Outlet" was rated at 120 watts at 10 amps.
There was a delay in getting the radio installed for a few months, and I operated out of the power outlet until then with no problems or noise, with the only "problem" being the radio sat on the passenger seat all that time.
When I went to the installer, I happened to mention to him how I was operating. "Impossible," he said, until I showed him the rating of the outlet. He was not aware of the new ratings given to those outlets.
I accidentally hit the mic button one time but, fearing a blown fuse, was surprised to hear the repeater go up with no interruption. I attempted a few other mic presses, including a few long ones, all successful.
It turned out that the "Accessory Power Outlet" was rated at 120 watts at 10 amps.
There was a delay in getting the radio installed for a few months, and I operated out of the power outlet until then with no problems or noise, with the only "problem" being the radio sat on the passenger seat all that time.
When I went to the installer, I happened to mention to him how I was operating. "Impossible," he said, until I showed him the rating of the outlet. He was not aware of the new ratings given to those outlets.
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slowmover
Active Member
“Hardest part” of power install is finding a firewall penetration. They may not be obvious.
The vehicle shared a platform across GM, so other brand names apply. Someone somewhere has installed a stereo amp.
In same wise, someone somewhere may have already installed a transceiver.
I’m both cases, some search engine work ought to bring that up.
I wouldn’t have so easily run power in my sons SUV otherwise. I knew where to look.
.
The vehicle shared a platform across GM, so other brand names apply. Someone somewhere has installed a stereo amp.
In same wise, someone somewhere may have already installed a transceiver.
I’m both cases, some search engine work ought to bring that up.
I wouldn’t have so easily run power in my sons SUV otherwise. I knew where to look.
.
No more cigarette/cigar lighters any more. (Smoking is so passé ). They're called power outlets now. They're meant to power a range of external devices rather than supply current to a simple heating element. Best bet is to check your owner's manual and see what fuse is used to protect the outlet.
For example, my Jeep has three outlets. (One on the dash, one inside the center console and one in the back near the rear hatch). They each have their own 20 Amp fuse. So, in my case, a 50 - 60 Watt mobile radio would work with no problems while plugged in to one of the power outlets.
That said.. I have an Icom IC-7000 mounted in the Jeep. The specs say that it draws up to 22 Amps. Because of this, I have it hooked directly to the battery.
). They're called power outlets now. They're meant to power a range of external devices rather than supply current to a simple heating element. Best bet is to check your owner's manual and see what fuse is used to protect the outlet.For example, my Jeep has three outlets. (One on the dash, one inside the center console and one in the back near the rear hatch). They each have their own 20 Amp fuse. So, in my case, a 50 - 60 Watt mobile radio would work with no problems while plugged in to one of the power outlets.
That said.. I have an Icom IC-7000 mounted in the Jeep. The specs say that it draws up to 22 Amps. Because of this, I have it hooked directly to the battery.
slowmover
Active Member
Friend, you’ve missed the point of “simplicity”. (It assumed sufficiency).
The critical item is performance. Being able to hear faint RX not occluded by vehicle 12V system noise.
It’s one thing to say as much (gets ignored, I get it). But i gave evidence of my own experience as to type, location, rig, conditions, geography, etc. as example.
If you (anyone) don’t find it persuasive (conclusive) good luck to to you.
And good luck finding another comparison with someone who uses CB for business & safety, operates it thousands of hours per year, and has dragged his own radio rig a long ways out of the mud to give it what it needs.
Calling me a liar in ignoring that I gave testimony? I think your offense much outweighs the one of which you accuse me.
The OP might not have expected this response. But he put it on a public forum for an airing. He’s receiving the answer to questions unasked. As they are inherent to why we’d use a CB in the first place.
Duty demands clarity. To act otherwise would be dishonorable.
The man wheeling his family aboard the family Conestoga and charged with their safety deserves no less. Things that go wrong on the highway need only go wrong ONCE.
I trust — as should you — he is fully capable of weighing and deciding his best course.
As an addendum for the TV watchers (last & worst informed): The highway death rate has skyrocketed the past year paralleling the CV19 jabs. 15-18% and greater. And is not tapering. Thousands more dying prematurely.
— Bad decisions by degraded humans, wrecks worse than they should be (I’ve a quarter-century at this job description and have travelled North America since JFK was in office), and it’s now a common topic with my other skilled friends in the business.
AND, more wrecks in general, plus more serious injury wrecks.
The comforting lies we tell ourselves about being “good drivers” don’t mean much when the statistical skew Is rapidly changing — as habits and tools have not been updated, much less reviewed
I’ve been hit three times this past year by people who were both anxious and befuddled. Millennial age group. No apparent handicaps. Dry roads, clear skies and I had R-o-W each time. This is a new thing.
The sheriffs and DPS employees with whom I’ve spoken register the same impressions.
— This forum assumes brains over the common run of men. You post here, I’d be negligent I gave a rats ass I acted as a woman fearing offense given over such.
Bypassing a simple given for a transceiver Is a mistake. One will hear little, and maybe not that meant specifically for him.
Ears are for those who will hear.
Willful ignorance is absolutely a sin.
Someone reading or posting here isn’t here by accident.
My experience — which none of you have unless you travel as I do — is that It’s not coincidence the topic is “of interest” to you. Spirit leads in all, yet can be hardest to acknowledge.
Citizen Band Radio is coming into its own as never before. Do it right and you’ll communicate with others who’ve taken it seriously AS ITS’ MEANT TO BE.
The winds of change have separated the wheat from the chaff.
.
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slowmover
Active Member
No more cigarette/cigar lighters any more. (Smoking is so passé
For example, my Jeep has three outlets. (One on the dash, one inside the center console and one in the back near the rear hatch). They each have their own 20 Amp fuse. So, in my case, a 50 - 60 Watt mobile radio would work with no problems while plugged in to one of the power outlets.
That said.. I have an Icom IC-7000 mounted in the Jeep. The specs say that it draws up to 22 Amps. Because of this, I have it hooked directly to the battery.
My Kenworth has more than six (6) each with spec printed atop. Likely of a higher duty-rating. Noisy.
The run to the battery is nineteen-feet (19’). And a genuine PITA as it’s from atop the windshield to down below the drivers door entry steps. Scope that route next time you observe a tractor. Across header pinch points and down the A-pillar to somehow get past the armored firewall thence safely to the battery box. And create a central ground point near the radio. Do it all and safely that you don’t get fired for “truck modifications”.
Radio fuse rating is the parameter for amp load, not operational demand. And be generous even past 3% voltage drop requirement to do it once and do it right.
If it isn’t otherwise obvious that no one is coming to save you , you must first do your part to meet changes already happening . . . or you’ll be beyond recall by those who will have tried .
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