Motorola DEK HLN1206B

[jbowers726]

Okay everyone,

I am back for round two of help and I hope someone can help me this time. I purchased a DEK HLN1206B from ebay. When the guy sent it to me, he send me some really large old relays and the actual connector for the wildcard box. Since i have the original connector to connect to the back of it, I don't really need pin outs What I really need is the color codes for the wires coming out of the connector. Here is the connector and as you can see it's connected to the box and wires come out of the connector. These wire colors should relate to the switch power and ground as well as one for the DEK wildcard box's power for the back lights. Any help is appreciated.

Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

Thanks,

James

 

[cabletech]

That DB25 connector that you show, is not a Moto setup. I also use a couple of these and I believe I still have a manual in my files.

Great switch controler, just remember that you can not run more that 1 amp thru the switchs and the board and you need to use the out board relays.

I have mine set to switch grounds on the relays and all +12 goes thru the relays and never sees the board.

I worked at Moto for years building emergency vehicles using these decks and that was how we installed them to control lites bars, gun locks and etc.

Give me a day or so to locate. PM me your e-mail and I will send it as soon as I find it.

 

[jbowers726]

Thanks

Thanks Cabletech,

I will PM you in a moment. That would be my luck that it's not a moto set up....That makes my life that much harder. I do remember from my reading that no more than 1 amp through it. So in a typical set up I assume power comes into the relay from the power source, then out from the relay to the light, so then I would assume one connection would go to the switch as the (ignition switch) and the final obviously is a ground. Then I assume that I need a power point from my source to the switch box and I place a 1 amp fuse on that?

I am kind of learning this as I go... I previously used a switch box from galls and i want to get rid of that huge thing.... If I can get this to work, then I will buy another for my second car.

Thanks,

 

[PJH]

If your using low current switching lightbars, you can skip relays. Most lightbars for the past few years (LED's, Strobe) use this method. Some high current ones are still around. In general, if there is a main power cable to the bar, and then a cable with lots of little wires - you should not need relays. Same goes for remote power supplies (most UPS/ISP/CP Whelen supplies). Anything more you'll need a relay. If you have time, the best way to go (if needing a bunch of relays) is to build your own relay box. Motorola use to offer one years back and it was simply a DB25 computer cable ran to a metal "Box" with relay's mounted to it. Made wiring very simple once you trace out which wire goes to which pin in the cable.

NO is normally open, NC is normally closed.

From Batlabs:

The pinout of the DB25 on the HLN1196A (maybe also HLN1206) Auxilliary Switch Panel (wildcard box) is as follows:

DB25 Pin Description
1 A+ for lamp power
2 SW5 N.O.
3 SW5 Common
4 SW5 N.C.
5 SW7 N.O.
6 SW7 Common (Momentary)
7 SW7 N.C.
8 SW8 N.O.
9 SW8 Common (Momentary)
10 SW8 N.C.
11 SW3 N.O.
12 SW3 Common
13 SW3 N.C.
14 SW6 N.C.
15 SW6 Common
16 SW6 N.O.
17 Ground for lamps
18 SW4 Common
19 SW4 N.O.
Note: SW4 N.C. contact is not brought out to the connector
20 SW1 N.O.
21 SW1 Common
22 SW1 N.C.
23 SW2 N.C.
24 SW2 Common
25 SW2 N.O.

The service sheet for the Auxiliary Switch Panel is 68-80101w13. This is not a DEK, it is a series of 6 locking and 2 momentary single pole double throw switches rated at 1A @ 13.8 volts used for controlling low current devices, ie relays. The IC and transistors inside are used for lamp illumination only.

 

[jbowers726]

One last question

Okay,

So again you guys have saved me and I am on the right track, but I have one more question. Explain the pin outs to me please??? lol... sorry to ask again.

DB25 Pin Description
1 A+ for lamp power
2 SW5 N.O.
3 SW5 Common
4 SW5 N.C.
5 SW7 N.O.
6 SW7 Common (Momentary)
7 SW7 N.C.
8 SW8 N.O.
9 SW8 Common (Momentary)
10 SW8 N.C.
11 SW3 N.O.
12 SW3 Common
13 SW3 N.C.
14 SW6 N.C.
15 SW6 Common
16 SW6 N.O.
17 Ground for lamps
18 SW4 Common
19 SW4 N.O.
Note: SW4 N.C. contact is not brought out to the connector
20 SW1 N.O.
21 SW1 Common
22 SW1 N.C.
23 SW2 N.C.
24 SW2 Common
25 SW2 N.O.

I understand how the numbers relate to the pins and wires etc, but here is my question... My experience with electrical wiring is that everything has a power and a ground, but here it's got me confused.

For example pin 23, 24, 25. I am assuming that 23 is nothing important considering there is no wires in any of the ones that state N.C. I also assume that port 24 being named common is ground? And Finally, I understand from what I am reading that pin 25 then would be the power (positive) connection.

Finally, I understand (i believe) that pin 1 is power for the lamps and pin 17 is the ground (common) line for the back lights.

Please understand that I am trying to understand this, and I think I am finally on the right page.

Thanks,

James

 

[mikewazowski]

NO is normally open and NC is normally closed. You use one of those pins along with the Common pin to switch your equipment.

 

[jbowers726]

NO is normally open and NC is normally closed. You use one of those pins along with the Common pin to switch your equipment.

Okay,

So if I understand right, I only need to pick one of these plus the common wire (which is ground), so in theory I have the option to have it come on when the button is pushed in or pushed out?

Normally open (means lights work when button pushed in?)
Normally closed (means lights work when button is out?)

Sorry, I am really trying