New Member - Looking for Advice

[drummer12345]

Good evening. I am a new member, both to the Forum and fairly new to GMRS.

I do have my GMRS license and have been using handhelds for a bit. Looking to upgrade to a mobile unit for our 2014 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2-door. It will mainly be used for trails, and, following Hurricane Helene, another means of communications when the cell towers go down again.

Ove the past couple of weeks I have been reading up on this Forum. I have seen a lot of information from member mmckenna.

Looking through the information, this is what I am thinking for a set-up. I am completely open to suggestions for improvements.

1. Radio - Kenwood TK-8180K (450-520MHz, 30 watt)
2. Antenna Mount - Larsen NMOKHFUD (theantennafarm.com)
3. Antenna - Larsen NMO450CHW (theantennafarm.com)
4. Antenna Mount - TAF JPGM-4 JW (theantennafarm.com)
   1. With this mount and the antenna, the antenna will be about 1" taller than our AM/FM radio antenna
5. Radio Mount - Quadratec JK-CBMU (quadratec.com)
   1. Something like this
6. Hand mic mount - something that mounts to the passenger dash grab handle
7. Programming Software - KPG-89
8. Programming cable - KPG-46 programming cable (bluemax49ers.com/)

I have read that the TK-8180K take a standard UHF connector. Is that correct? I haven't yet seen any recommendations on specific brands/models for the connector.

Again, open to any suggestions that more knowledgeable folks have.

Thank you.

 

[Josh]

Good morning:

Looking at your list, the antenna mount will work fine for a Jeep but #5 seems to come with the NMO and cable. You wouldn't need a second one.

The radio, being a commercial version requiring the cable and software to config won't be able to set up "on the fly" like the consumer level GMRS radios are (PL, etc). But you'll have a better radio overall. Yes it will have a UHF connector on the back. The only other consideration is where you'll be tapping power from if you haven't already routed power from the battery into the passenger area.

Good luck!
-Josh

 

[drummer12345]

Thank you for your response Josh.

For #5, I am unsure if the radio mount comes with the NMO and cable. Unfortunately, the description on Quadratec isn't the best. For $50.00 though....... Open to other ideas. I 'like' this location for the radio, however it will impact the forward movement of the passenger seat. I've seen the remote face plate option for the TK-8180K, which may be a good idea, but I'd need to wait a bit to get it based on the cost.

It sounds like hooking the power directly to the battery is the preferred method. I have seen several references to 'dirty power' if connecting to existing wires.

Several years ago I had an adapter on my motorcycle battery that would turn on when the engine was running, then turn off shortly after I turned the engine off. Not sure what that is called. Would something like that be ok to use, or should I just get in the habit of turning off the radio power?

Any recommendations on a specific UHF connector, or just fine one on Amazon?

 

[Josh]

I have a Kenwood NX700, which is very similar to the 8180 in terms of size and look... basically identical. I have it remoted with the head centered behind the shifter. The radio is in the hiding place in the back. I ran a #10 wire from the battery to the back and the negative is connected to a stud going into the frame. It's worked very well, however, I mounted my antenna to the 3rd brake light (and I use VHF, so it's a half-wave antenna being used approx 39". In my previous car, I had a charge guard setup as well- it turned on the equipment when the vehicle starts and powers it all of after a programmable amount of time, or disconnects automatically if the battery voltage dips too low. It's a pretty good investment, especially if you're running a lot of equipment that could drain the battery.

UHF connectors vary in quality significantly and there are a lot of options for connecting them to RG58. If you're good at soldering and go with the traditional PL259 with the RG58 reducer, Amphenol makes a good one, other brands with a teflon insulator are good too from the standpoint of not melting when doing the solder work.

I really like the version Radio Shack used to sell where you simply take the clean cut end of the cable and stick it into the connector, and turn a set screw into the outer jacket to hold it in place and ground it. Not sure how easily those can still be obtained.

-Josh

 

[drummer12345]

I have a Kenwood NX700, which is very similar to the 8180 in terms of size and look... basically identical. I have it remoted with the head centered behind the shifter. The radio is in the hiding place in the back. I ran a #10 wire from the battery to the back and the negative is connected to a stud going into the frame. It's worked very well, however, I mounted my antenna to the 3rd brake light (and I use VHF, so it's a half-wave antenna being used approx 39". In my previous car, I had a charge guard setup as well- it turned on the equipment when the vehicle starts and powers it all of after a programmable amount of time, or disconnects automatically if the battery voltage dips too low. It's a pretty good investment, especially if you're running a lot of equipment that could drain the battery.

UHF connectors vary in quality significantly and there are a lot of options for connecting them to RG58. If you're good at soldering and go with the traditional PL259 with the RG58 reducer, Amphenol makes a good one, other brands with a teflon insulator are good too from the standpoint of not melting when doing the solder work.

I really like the version Radio Shack used to sell where you simply take the clean cut end of the cable and stick it into the connector, and turn a set screw into the outer jacket to hold it in place and ground it. Not sure how easily those can still be obtained.

-Josh

The charge guard looks pretty nice. Found one on Amazon. That is much nicer than what I previously had on my motorcycle; it didn’t have a setting to run power XX time after the engine was shut off.

I see the Amphenol PL259 on Amazon. While I don’t solder, my co-worker is an engineer and does. Could be a good opportunity for me to learn.

Thanks for your advice. I just made the purchase of the 8180 from used-radios.com. They offer free programming up to 16-channels to get me going.

 

[DeoVindice]

The TK-8180 supports operator-selected tones (OST) which you may find useful for selecting repeaters on the fly. Excellent choice on that radio. If you decide to look for portables, TK-3180s use the same programming software so you won't need to build an entirely new codeplug.

While they're a bit pricey, you may enjoy a Magnetic Mic hang-up clip. They're quite a bit easier than fumbling with a regular clip, especially on rough roads.

 

[drummer12345]

While they're a bit pricey, you may enjoy a Magnetic Mic hang-up clip. They're quite a bit easier than fumbling with a regular clip, especially on rough roads.

Those look nice. Seems pretty straightforward to install. We do hit some rough road trails down here.

Once I get comfortable with the TK-8180, I'll take a look at the TK-3180. I like easy programming!

 

[mmckenna]

TK-8180K in the 30 watt version has the FCC Part 95 certification required for GMRS. The other TK-8180 models do not. Looks like you've got that on your list.

KRK-10 is the remote head kit. They've recently become very expensive on E-Bay. Might be worth calling a Kenwood dealer to see if they can give you a better price. The KRK-10 kit includes a 23 foot long remote cable.
Or, shop around on e-Bay and see if you can find a radio/remote kit package. They do pop up periodically.

RFIndustries makes good UHF connectors and they are what I usually purchase at work. But they are crimp style and unless you are going to invest in the crimp tool, you're better off going with the solder on type. Amphenol makes good stuff. Be careful with Amazon as there are a lot of cheap connectors sold there. Since you are putting so much effort and time into this, pay the extra for the good stuff.

I'll second what @DeoVindice said. Running UTV's off road, as well as my personal and work trucks, as well as the police cars at work, I always use the MagnetMic products. Makes life much easier when you need to keep your eyes on the road/trail. No fiddling with trying to find the hang up clip, just get it close and it sticks. The microphone will not come loose, even on the roughest trail. Trust me, I tried.

Magnetic Mic - The Ultimate Magnetic Police Radio Mic Clip

Magnetic Mic is a universally-compatible mic clip for police and CB radios. It uses a super strong magnet to make hanging your mic faster, easier and safer. It's the microphone holder that lets first responders stay focused on what matters.

magneticmic.com

If you are going to run that Larsen antenna, I'd recommend adding the spring:

Black Spring for Antennas Larsen SpringB

Larsen Black spring

theantennafarm.com

You'll need to cut the bottom of the whip to make up for the length of the spring, but it'll help with long term survivability of your bracket if you give it some flex.

You are correct on the power. You should take your radio power from the following source:
Positive: Come directly off the positive terminal of the battery. Install a fuse or circuit breaker near the battery, then run to the radio.
Negative: Come off the body ground close to the radio. Do -not- run your negative lead all the way back to the battery.

You should carefully consider your future needs for radios/accessories while running the power. The hard part is running the wire. The wire itself is pretty inexpensive. Consider upsizing now to make your life easier in the future. On my personal vehicles, I upsize the wiring and install a fused distribution block behind the seat. That'll let me add additional radios/accessories by simply adding a new fuse.

I'd also recommend adding an external speaker for the radio. The internal speaker on the head works pretty well in a quiet vehicle with the windows rolled up, but will be working pretty hard in a jeep. An external speaker will give you much louder and easier to understand audio.

Good luck, sounds like a nice setup. You've really done your homework on this. It'll pay off in the long run.

 

[drummer12345]

@mmckenna - I was hoping that you would respond. I have read a couple of dozen of your posts and selected a lot of the set-up based on your recommendations. The sales guy at used-radios.com even knew your username when I made the purchase.

If you are going to run that Larsen antenna, I'd recommend adding the spring:

I was wondering about adding a spring. When you say to cut down the antenna, is that to keep the height consistent?

On my personal vehicles, I upsize the wiring and install a fused distribution block behind the seat. That'll let me add additional radios/accessories by simply adding a new fuse.

That is a good idea. Not sure what else I would add, but I'm sure I'd think of something.

Do you think a six block with 16 gauge wire is sufficient? I'd need to figure out where to mount a block. Being a 2-door, there isn't a lot of available space.

I am waiting to hear back from my engineer co-worker about the crimper. I know that we have soldering capability.

Any other changes you would recommend?

 

[mmckenna]

The sales guy at used-radios.com even knew your username when I made the purchase.

Oh, crap. Hopefully that didn't cause any issues.

I was wondering about adding a spring. When you say to cut down the antenna, is that to keep the height consistent?

Exactly. The length of the antenna makes it resonate at specific frequencies. Changing the length will change that, and increase SWR. So if you add the spring, the antenna whip needs to be shortened from the bottom. Usually the antennas will come with a "cut chart" and that chart will have a length for no spring and a length for the spring being installed. I'll have to look later on tonight and see if that's online.

That is a good idea. Not sure what else I would add, but I'm sure I'd think of something.

GMRS sometimes leads to amateur radio. CB and/or scanner might be in your future also. Never hurts to have some extra capacity.

Do you think a six block with 16 gauge wire is sufficient? I'd need to figure out where to mount a block. Being a 2-door, there isn't a lot of available space.

No, you'd probably want something like 12 gauge, or maybe 10 if I wanted to dream big. 16 gauge is kind of small for this. The risk is voltage drop. Just make sure you get wire that is specific to vehicle use. You want something very flexible and designed for the heat, vibration and risk of gas/oil exposure. SAE J1127 is the spec for battery wire used in vehicles, but finding that in 12 gauge may be difficult. I usually use a 6 gauge for my mobile installs using SAE J1127 rated cable. But that's for bigger installations with larger radios than you'll be running. 6 gauge would be overkill for this.

I am waiting to hear back from my engineer co-worker about the crimper. I know that we have soldering capability.

Any other changes you would recommend?

Pay close attention to wire routing. You need to keep it away from heat, sharp edges, chemicals (oil, gas, brake fluid, etc). You want it well secured so it doesn't flop around. Fuse it close to the battery. Anywhere you run through the firewall, make sure you have a grommet. Cover all the wiring with an appropriately rated split loom tubing, and it'll look factory.

Invest in good wire terminal crimpers, don't use the cheap ones. You'll thank me later:

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=YYBDFAT4GRHR&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qZ2Hu37c6GIaNgj7WE_-zm0kPK5CQZ3rTXHXYP0UT4uVVWS0HMJxOak_6AjaBV_EfhZvN26M4zSleDSdm96yd2_3jGgBuy9usiUK3pNqO7jTez-cfjSf-Rqb0DCEkHemY7DebpQViYJyk2jp6oN_-m05BztuJ_X_C3-Y3hg2W3owY8z06DPEQY9AwL1GhqkxV-nF2YfKaw25nEqWEjsfs6qf87V7D6VNPvc4JclPjPYaoOa9f7d9hP37BJM0yV81rgthtBDoR3Qj5Vwc7hP4aiZ1iA6Vyp4EPvix9fGlDUo.mRAqH2odjCSfztYR0-yWUoIYknrKAz7mqIxSVDU7rKY&dib_tag=se&keywords=full%2Bcycle%2Binsulated%2Bterminal%2Bcrimpers%2BKlein&qid=1730250258&s=hi&sprefix=full%2Bcycle%2Binsulated%2Bterminal%2Bcrimpers%2Bklein%2Ctools%2C209&sr=1-4&th=1

 

[Josh]

The KRK-10 remote kit... haven't checked eBay but in 2010 or so when I bought mine, Ameradio was the place to go Kenwood KRK-10 Control Head Remote Kit for NX-700 NX-800 But it was $76 then.

 

[mmckenna]

The KRK-10 remote kit... haven't checked eBay but in 2010 or so when I bought mine, Ameradio was the place to go Kenwood KRK-10 Control Head Remote Kit for NX-700 NX-800 But it was $76 then.

List price in 2020 was $107, a lot less with contract pricing. That's a pretty good price, above.

On e-Bay, they are selling for over $200. I have no idea why people pay e-Bay prices like that.

 

[drummer12345]

The KRK-10 remote kit... haven't checked eBay but in 2010 or so when I bought mine, Ameradio was the place to go Kenwood KRK-10 Control Head Remote Kit for NX-700 NX-800

I opened the installation instructions. To confirm, with this remote unit, I remove the display head unit from the 8180 and install it on the remote base, so I have all the controls on the remote?

 

[drummer12345]

But they are crimp style and unless you are going to invest in the crimp tool

Is this the correct style crimping tool? It shows RG58.

https://www.amazon.com/KingBra-Coax-Crimp-Tools-Quality/dp/B07GNH3L3H/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.EzH16BN0KL1O4S9bEMnnzRQ931hOdBghJeJyqfKuvbyzcyZF5hf8szqUbQ5GKZvVKcg7CVeIgeS2OsUf7ENioSa6gf2qIUXdnuoD3ojxYsCoBHMizKosihcH_Za0Z_DJvAdCc031FeI1SCMGe7xxMwGL3odTglD20NccjVGEMw42kVqwSeyShfa_P6toXFu0eIod__lbQVg286KwrQnqkoLNdtGGKm-sL3h9l0Ya0gAW6aFg3_p_vMAUd0Y7Q5vCKZ4At7Fq5JB27VCTmZvX9-u30ky0BsGIdilEP6gvJLs.euaw7cW1bZMnHnflXAagG3pOrznBeqvKV58N5NGh1Lk&dib_tag=se&hvadid=580617845242&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9009994&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8667143774447773041&hvtargid=kwd-366143746797&hydadcr=29010_14560060&keywords=pl-259%2Bcrimp%2Btool&qid=1730295124&sr=8-9&th=1

 

[Josh]

I opened the installation instructions. To confirm, with this remote unit, I remove the display head unit from the 8180 and install it on the remote base, so I have all the controls on the remote?

Yes, it's easy to do... don't think it required any tools. Just be mindful of the ribbon cables. The control head with function just like it was on the radio.

 

[mmckenna]

Is this the correct style crimping tool? It shows RG58.

Probably.
Compare the crimp diameter requirements of the connector to what the tool says.

Something to add:
get yourself one of these: Marine Heat-Shrink Tubing Assortment With Case, 42-Piece
and a heat gun.
Put two pieces of it over the coax cable before you do anything. One should be slid all the way to the NMO mount and over the cable entry. Shrink that, and it'll help keep moisture out of the mount, and act as a strain relief.
Do the same with the connector end. It acts as a strain relief and will help with durability down the road.
You can use this same stuff over all your electrical connections.

The "marine grade" part of it means it has a hot melt adhesive on the inside. When you heat the tubing up to shrink it, the adhesive melts and flows over the connection sealing everything.

 

[drummer12345]

After some back-and-forth with The Antenna Farm via e-mail about the connectors, I gave them a call today. John was great. Explained the differences between the connection types and recommended soldering to save money on the tool. Confirmed all the other selections were great choices.

Thanks for all the advice.