BC125AT: Owners manual Instructions CONFLICT

[T_Chris_T]

I just got a new Uniden BC125AT scanner; obviously I don't want to damage it.
I found a CONFLICT in the charging instructions; and want to get some clarification if possible.
Sorry if this has been covered and I missed it - feel free to point me in the right direction.

The owners manual says THIS is one spot.
Charging the Ni-MH Batteries
The scanner has a built-in circuit that charges the included Ni-MH batteries when a USB cable connects it to a computer - NOT to a USB hub or to an AC or DC adapter that provides USB charging power. (So it implies it can ONLY be charged when connected to a COMPUTER)

A LITTLE FURTHER DOWN IT SAYS THIS (which seems to contradict the above instructions)
1. Be sure the scanner is turned off. It will recharge only if it is turned off, even with the USB cable connecting it to a computer.
2. Connect the included USB cable to the scanner’s USB port.
3. Connect the other end of the USB cable to the computer's USB port or to an AC or DC adapter that provides USB charging power.
(this implies it can be charged when power by ANYTHING)

ALSO It says this:
NOTE: If you connect to a computer's USB port, the PC will prompt you for the drivers for your scanner.
To download and install these drivers, go to BC125AT < UnidenMan4 < TWiki.
4. The scanner displays Charging while it charges the batteries and Charge Complete when the Ni-MH batteries are completely charged.

I've never downloaded any drivers..?? but it seems to have charged on my computer - very confusing

 

[KevinC]

What it’s saying is you can charge it via a computer, but not through a USB hub or you can charge it via a AC or DC USB adapter.

 

[pb_lonny]

I have also found that the newer ones won't charge while in use, my previous one did.

 

[T_Chris_T]

What it’s saying is you can charge it via a computer, but not through a USB hub or you can charge it via a AC or DC USB adapter.

OK - so If I understand. I can use an adapter that plugs into the wall; and only will charge ONE item..... but not one of these things that plugs into the wall and has MULTIPLE places to plug in USB cords.?

 

[T_Chris_T]

I have also found that the newer ones won't charge while in use, my previous one did.

Yeah - my new one says "it has to be turned off to charge"

ANYONE have any idea how long a charge will last..??
Will it last for an entire 5 hour Cup race; or should I carry some back-up batteries??

 

[KevinC]

OK - so If I understand. I can use an adapter that plugs into the wall; and only will charge ONE item..... but not one of these things that plugs into the wall and has MULTIPLE places to plug in USB cords.?

No, it’s saying not to use one of these things…

 

[T_Chris_T]

yeah that's what I did a poor job of trying to describe.
Thanks for the photo to verify and excuse my ignorance.
Sometimes I'm going to have to learn about this "close call" stuff.
Hope it don't interfere at the car race. I hear concessions stands; etc also "radio" to each other and it sometimes bleeds over and is very annoying.

 

[pb_lonny]

Around 5 - 6 hours, depending on the amount of traffic.

 

[n1chu]

So, I don’t own that particular scanner but wonder why a hub is not recommended… and just to further complicate things, is it a passive or active hub they are relating to?

 

[KE5MC]

I think your passive/active question sets the stage for a blanket hub not recommended. An inexpensive inline USB meter displaying volts and current helps monitor the charging process across various end devices, cables and charging devices. Showing what works and doesn't...
Mike

 

[KE5MC]

No, it’s saying not to use one of these things…

View attachment 127069

To confuse the situation the attached picture is my PC setup with hub expander that does work with my SDS100 using Sentinel and charging, but using the Hub USB port is not how I usually charge the radio. I just know it does if I want it too. Different radio and setup... Might make a difference to the OP, not sure.
Mike

 

[donc13]

USB is a standard. They carry 5v at (up to) 5,10,15 and 20 Watts of power (1amp,, 2amp, 3 amp and 4 amp).

If the hub isn't a powered hub (has its own power supply) then that power from a computer USB port gets divided by the number of ports (in use) on the hub.

Thus, may or may not be able to charge a battery.

 

[wtp]

first, always carry extra batteries, or radio as the need arises.
second, get a smart external charger, many here advise not charging in the radio.

 

[popnokick]

+1 for wtp's suggestion. When I read all the info about USB charging, / not charging / drivers / recognition of the device by a computer... I decided to use NiMH rechargeable batteries and an external "smart" charger. I rotate the batteries through the 125 so when the pair in use are discharged they go into the charger, and the fully charged "fresh" set go into the radio. Rinse and repeat as needed.

 

[n1chu]

USB is a standard. They carry 5v at (up to) 5,10,15 and 20 Watts of power (1amp,, 2amp, 3 amp and 4 amp).

If the hub isn't a powered hub (has its own power supply) then that power from a computer USB port gets divided by the number of ports (in use) on the hub.

Thus, may or may not be able to charge a battery.

The individual ports on the hub are set up in parallel, each receiving the same as what the hub is getting from whatever it’s plugged into. So it’s not divided as you say amongst the ports. But if what I say here is true, why would there be the need for an active hub, one you have to plug in? And why, when I plug in a hub in my 2021 F-150, does the truck recognize it and tell me to unplug it? (It’s an active hub that’s not plugged into AC so I figure it’s seen as a passive hub. It works, keeps my SDS100 charged, but I keep getting the “Unrecognized hub, please disconnect” warning.)

 

[donc13]

The individual ports on the hub are set up in parallel, each receiving the same as what the hub is getting from whatever it’s plugged into. So it’s not divided as you say amongst the ports. But if what I say here is true, why would there be the need for an active hub, one you have to plug in? And why, when I plug in a hub in my 2021 F-150, does the truck recognize it and tell me to unplug it? (It’s an active hub that’s not plugged into AC so I figure it’s seen as a passive hub. It works, keeps my SDS100 charged, but I keep getting the “Unrecognized hub, please disconnect” warning.)

You missed the part where I said the power available is divided based on the number of ports on the hub IN use.

The power available on the USB port the hub is attached is limited by the original port's hardware. Thus, a USB type 2 port that can only supply 2 amps of power (10 watts) to a 4 port hub with 4 devices plugged into it can only supply 0.5 amps to each device on the hub. A powered hub provides it's own 5v power at full amperage for each device.

My 2021 Honda has 2 USB ports, one has 1.5 amps max, the other 1amp max. A passive hub will not increase the amount of power available.

 

[jaspence]

The best way to charge any rechargeable AAA or AA battery is an external charger. I had a Pro 95 case melt when there was a short in one of the cells being charged. A good charger charges each battery individually and will also condition each cell for longer life. I use one from Ikea that charges AA and AAA. It can charge from 1 to 12 cells at a time. Chargers that charge in the radio charge in series and do not condition or give even charge to each cell.

 

[R8000]

Chargers that charge in the radio charge in series and do not condition or give even charge to each cell.

The only benefit using AA and AAA rechargeable batteries is, they are easily available in retail stores.
When they go bad, you buy another set.
Not the end of the world when a battery dies with AA and AAA vs a proprietary battery pack.

 

[jaspence]

If you like to spend extra money on batteries R8000, fine. If you want to charge batteries to have stand-bys, then you can't use the radio and charge at the same time. I am a volunteer with my OEM. I have both scanners and HT radios. One of my professional radios has a battery put in service in 2008. It costs $108 for a replacement, and it is maintained by the manufacture recommendations because of the cost and not being readily available at the corner drug store when it decides to die during an emergency.

 

[n1chu]

You missed the part where I said the power available is divided based on the number of ports on the hub IN use.

The power available on the USB port the hub is attached is limited by the original port's hardware. Thus, a USB type 2 port that can only supply 2 amps of power (10 watts) to a 4 port hub with 4 devices plugged into it can only supply 0.5 amps to each device on the hub. A powered hub provides it's own 5v power at full amperage for each device.

My 2021 Honda has 2 USB ports, one has 1.5 amps max, the other 1amp max. A passive hub will not increase the amount of power available.

Thank you. I believe I missed your meaning but thanks for the clarification. The hub I’m using is an active hub, I just didn’t plug it in to the AC outlet available, making it a passive hub, out of fear I would do something detrimental to the vehicle. I’m relatively sure if I did plug it in nothing would happen as the AC should only power the hub. I’m only recharging one thing at a time, So I don’t think I’d need to… (I have a couple other power cords plugged in and only use them one at a time. The hub is buried so plugging in the other cords saves me the need to fish around for the hub each time I need a different cord).