Yaesu: Power - Yaesu FTM-200

KK4JUG

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I'm still learning my new Yaesu FTM-200. So far, I love it. The screen is bright and crisp, albeit somewhat small. Gotta question, though.

The radio is connected directly to the battery. It's an AGM battery with a couple or three years on it but still performing very well. If the radio is on and I crank the car, the radio shuts off because of the low voltage then comes back on automatically like nothing happened. Previous radios have always shut off and stayed off 'til I physically turned 'em back on. I think the Yaesu has some type of electro-mechanical switch. My question is, am I harming the radio by allowing it to turn off and back on without any physical intervention, save turning the ignition on and starting the car?
 

N4KVE

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This is just my personal view, but I NEVER crank my car when my radio is on. I turn on the radio after the the engine is running. There can be a voltage spike the moment the key is released. Now my radio turns on automatically using the ign sense wire, but I have a timer set to eight seconds figuring the engine will crank less than that. Just a habit I formed decades ago.
 

Alliance01TX

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KK4JUG

I concur with the above opinions of awaiting for the engine to be ON & would strongly recommend (if not already) that you have both Positive and the Negative fused properly. I use #12 AWG with PowerPoles at my car battery / Radio and have used, in the past, a RigRunner (4004USB) in-front of the radio (Radio is in a Pelican case under my back seat area to deploy if needed) ) for extra protection and for an extra 12VDC power & USB charging point too...

You might want to have the battery (take radio out of circuit first) "Load Tested" as if the AGM is consistently dropping enough to make the radio reset due to low-voltage (~ 11.5VDC or lower) that might be the early-warning that either its not taking a full charge from your cars charging section and-or you might have a battery that is starting to have issues...

One other note: I learned that when I went from a stock lead-acid (factory install) battery and replaced with a AGM Battery the Battery Tech did-not "reset" the Battery Management System (BMS) , so the car was still charging at a lower than needed rate (voltage/amps), versus an AGM that typically takes a tad more voltage - thus, I was not getting a true full-charge and did experience a like situation, especially if starting at night as lights come on automatically in my car and more load on the battery & charging circuit too.

Different cars/trucks have various types of "Battery Management" names and systems - some claim it will auto-magically reset after NN miles - in my case that did not happen and took it to a known good local shop and they had the proper tool & experience and reset it for me free...Again, different cars and systems so just an fyi to ponder. Now I have the AGM at around the proper adsorption voltage of ~14.3 VDC and float voltage of ~13.7 VDC typical.

My point of view.

Bill
 

KK4JUG

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Both the negative and positive lines are fused. The AGM battery is original equipment (2016 Kia Sorento) and the management system seems to be working properly.

I've never dealt with an ignition sense relay but that seems to be the way the radio is working now.
 

robertmac

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Depending on make of vehicle, the Negative Wire should not be attached to the Negative post. Some vehicles state the negative wire should be attached to the engine block or where the wire from the negative post is attached to the vehicle.
 
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