I wanted to keep my mobile installations simple (quick removal). so I opted to power my Anytone D578UVIII Plus DMR radio from a cigarette lighter plug. But I’m finding that power source a bit low… I can operate on any power setting below the 2 Highest power settings, but no higher. This has caused me to look for a better power tap. If I were to go to the fuse block located inside the cab (kick panel, passenger side) I only find those micro-mini fuses and haven’t found a fuse tap that will fit the fuse block. (There are some but they are with a 90 degree bend, preventing insertion into the fuse block.) My other option is the larger fuse block found in the engine compartment. This fuse block might be a better choice for adding a fuse tap but then I’d have to feed the power cord into the passenger compartment. Has anyone successfully tapped into the fuse box inside the cab? If so, what fuse tap did you use?
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Powering the Anytone D578UVIII Plus from my 2021 F-150?
- Thread starter n1chu
- Start date
Usually on Fords there are some empty spare fuse sockets on the internal fuse block. The owners manual will have them labeled as spares. I've wired up to these in the past and had no problems using the adapters from amazon. Of course it's always best to wire your rig directly to the battery but sometimes it more trouble to do that than its worth.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-5004...8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-5004...8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Thanks for replying. I’ve resigned myself to going directly to the battery. I believe there’s an internal shutoff that is programmable on the radio. I will use that instead.
slowmover
Active Member
AnyTone AT-D578UVIII PLUS AnyTone AT-D578UV III Plus Tri-Band VHF/UHF/DMR Mobile Transceivers | DX Engineering
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If this is the same radio then one should go to BATT (fused) as appropriate as it’s a 15A draw radio at peak.
12-AWG; I’d prefer 10-AWG assuming 10’ TTL to get past heat & termination/insertion losses
ANCOR Marine-Grade or equivalent.
K0bg on WIRING
Slightly overbuilt re best quality 12V power is cheap, inspires confidence on-air, and shouldn’t ever be cause for concern in & of itself.
Getting thru firewall is:
1). Search. Someone else has done it.
2). Take time routing, secure run often, and cover in flame-resistant split-loom.
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I have a 2021 F150 and put radios in it a few years ago. I went out and snapped a few pics this morning that may help you.
I ran an 8 gauge wire and fuse that I got in a kit a Pep Boys, directly off the battery.
...through this grommet. I used an awl to poke a hole in the grommet and then a ballchain/magnet to retrieve the wire behind the glove compartment. I don't recall needing to do much removal of panels/pieces to get to the wire in the cab.
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Then I ran the 8 gauge to under the rear seat where it is interrupted by a relay. Running wires in these trucks is a breeze. Panels pop off like legos.
I used the fuse panel by the front passenger area to handle the relay switching. I added an "add-a-fuse" that I got at Auto Zone. Circuit #2 is ignition switched with the exit delay where you need to open a door after turning the truck off to switch it off. The second, lower Add-a Fuse" in the photo is connected to a constant circuit, into a toggle switch, that closes a second relay. This lets me manually toggle a switch if I want to power the radio on while the truck is off.
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I actually wanted an Anytone 578 but having a remote head was too high on my priority list so I went with two XPR4550 (V/U) instead. Not sure where you plan to put your 578...I know they have a bluetooth mic that doubles as a remote head now. That didn't exist when I did this install. The hardest part of the install, by far, was getting wires into the cubby for the head units, but that part probably doesn't apply to your install.
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My radios draw a little bit of current even when "off" so I am glad I have the relay remove power completely. You should put a meter on the Anytone to see what it draws when "off". You may want to add a relay to save your battery. These trucks seem to have enough parasitic draw as it is with all the electronics. I'm about ready to stick a solar panel on mine to keep it topped off, but that's another project.
Hopefully some of this is applicable and helps you out. Feel free to ask me any questions.
I ran an 8 gauge wire and fuse that I got in a kit a Pep Boys, directly off the battery.
...through this grommet. I used an awl to poke a hole in the grommet and then a ballchain/magnet to retrieve the wire behind the glove compartment. I don't recall needing to do much removal of panels/pieces to get to the wire in the cab.
. Then I ran the 8 gauge to under the rear seat where it is interrupted by a relay. Running wires in these trucks is a breeze. Panels pop off like legos.
I used the fuse panel by the front passenger area to handle the relay switching. I added an "add-a-fuse" that I got at Auto Zone. Circuit #2 is ignition switched with the exit delay where you need to open a door after turning the truck off to switch it off. The second, lower Add-a Fuse" in the photo is connected to a constant circuit, into a toggle switch, that closes a second relay. This lets me manually toggle a switch if I want to power the radio on while the truck is off.
. I actually wanted an Anytone 578 but having a remote head was too high on my priority list so I went with two XPR4550 (V/U) instead. Not sure where you plan to put your 578...I know they have a bluetooth mic that doubles as a remote head now. That didn't exist when I did this install. The hardest part of the install, by far, was getting wires into the cubby for the head units, but that part probably doesn't apply to your install.
. My radios draw a little bit of current even when "off" so I am glad I have the relay remove power completely. You should put a meter on the Anytone to see what it draws when "off". You may want to add a relay to save your battery. These trucks seem to have enough parasitic draw as it is with all the electronics. I'm about ready to stick a solar panel on mine to keep it topped off, but that's another project.
Hopefully some of this is applicable and helps you out. Feel free to ask me any questions.
slowmover
Active Member
“ . . Not sure where you plan to put your 578.”
Looking handy:
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Looking handy:
L-MAX Low Vibration Mount With Multi-Device Options
The L-MAX will hold up to 8.2 lbs. If you have multiple devices that you want to mount on one mount with little movement, this collection may be for you. This is collection of extension plates and adapters for All HT's, remote head. brackets, smart-phones and tablets. Please check to see if you...
www.lidoradio.com
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Be careful going to the battery as regards your ground/negative location; Fords have a battery charge control circuit and you'll mess up the battery charge if you connect directly to the battery negative post. There's a common ground point a little way away from the battery that you need to use for negative.
Thanks for the tip. Do you have further on the negative post is should be using? Its location?
Wow! You went the extra mile for me! Thanks for the pics-they are very helpful. My radio mount is attached to the passenger seat floor bolt and extends up and slightly over the center console so I won’t need to route the power cord all the way to the back seat. (I expect you did due to your use of relay switching. I won’t be bothering with that but the relay switching is definitely the way to go… if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right the first time! Your use of 10-12 gauge wire is also noted and the power cord I intend to use is 12 gauge. (As for parasitic drain on the battery as mentioned in another post, and the suggestion to attach the ground lead to a negative post away from the battery is also noted and will be included in my install… although I’m at a loss understanding how that would eliminate parasitic drain.) I will keep your offer to consult with you going forward and thank you for that.
Location may vary depending on the location of the battery, but here’s the Ford service bulletin:
I am using the same type of mount, although maybe not the same manufacturer. It attaches to the passenger seat floor bolt with a post that elevates the radio up and slightly over the center console. It does a good job with little or no vibration… the only thing I find wrong with the way I have configured the mount is it gets in the way of the console’s optional fold-over writing surface. The shift lever folds down and out of the way of the writing surface. But I’m left handed so I never use the option anyway! Thanks for the input.“ . . Not sure where you plan to put your 578.”
Looking handy:
L-MAX Low Vibration Mount With Multi-Device Options
The L-MAX will hold up to 8.2 lbs. If you have multiple devices that you want to mount on one mount with little movement, this collection may be for you. This is collection of extension plates and adapters for All HT's, remote head. brackets, smart-phones and tablets. Please check to see if you...www.lidoradio.com
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Perfect! Thanks again. I was aware of a parasitic drain on the battery, even without adding aftermarket equipment such as ham gear, as the vehicle needs power when turned off to do housekeeping downloads of off-hour updates/upgrades to firmware and on board electronics such as the numerous computer boards. (I remember to connect a trickle charger/conditioner to my battery for those times the vehicle remains dormant for extended periods of time.)
To sum it up;
My Anytone D578UVII Plus is now powered appropriately with the BT-01 remote hand mic and Bluetooth “hands free” PTT button. (The State of Connecticut’s cell phone law dropped the exemption status afforded amateurs that we held prior to the distracted driving fervor. Apparently the feds suggested the state may loose federal funding if it didn’t follow the federal suggestion on their interpretation of what constitutes an exemption, and the state folded… they didn’t even hesitate, but oh well, half the cops still think an amateur is exempt!)
Thanks again to all, I got some solid input for this.
My Anytone D578UVII Plus is now powered appropriately with the BT-01 remote hand mic and Bluetooth “hands free” PTT button. (The State of Connecticut’s cell phone law dropped the exemption status afforded amateurs that we held prior to the distracted driving fervor. Apparently the feds suggested the state may loose federal funding if it didn’t follow the federal suggestion on their interpretation of what constitutes an exemption, and the state folded… they didn’t even hesitate, but oh well, half the cops still think an amateur is exempt!)
Thanks again to all, I got some solid input for this.
I am not an authority on Connecticut law and I would check locally about this, but the way I read the 2024 Connecticut General Statutes Title 14, Chapter 248, Section 14.296aa subsection (b) which prohibits use of a hand-held mobile telephone or a mobile electronic device while driving contains an exception in subdivision (4) which states "(C) the use of a hand-held radio by a person with an amateur radio station license issued by the Federal Communications Commission in emergency situations for emergency purposes only". Of course, that clause about "emergency situations for emergency purposes only" may cause some issues. I am not an attorney and I am not providing legal advice.
Yes, as I understand it. (My research is slightly older… it removed the amateur exemption and changed the phrase “communications hand mic” to an all encompassing “electronic device” and further, did not include the exception for emergency use.)
The suggested federal exemptions listed were limited to just three… police, fire, and military, any use, emergency AND routine. The inclusion of amateur radio usage only during emergencies seems redundant as the FCC regs allow for any means necessary during an emergency, and includes CB, GMRS, and FRS, even though they are not specifically listed. It’s a sticky situation as a case in California some many years ago eluded to… a couple of hikers got into some trouble when one incurred a broken leg and their cell phone had no coverage. But the amateur radio they had with them had the capability of transmitting on the public safety portion of the amateur band. A call was made and the rescue was completed. But the police dept. filed a complaint with the FCC concerning unauthorized use of a police frequency and the FCC levied a fine and loss of amateur license. The amateur radio licensee appealed the action, stating there were no other alternatives in that particular situation but I never did learn what the final outcome was. (I believe the appear was declined, at least once.)
Thanks for the most recent update on the Ct. Regulation.
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