Pro-2004 Displays Wrong Frequency

[cdmandus]

Hello All,

I don't post here much and I tend to lurk for now but I have a Pro-2004 scanner that is acting weird. I punch in a frequenct like 460.050 and the dislay shows something like 460.0516. I sometimes move off of the channel and when I go back, sometimes it shows the right frequency I punched in (460.050) but sometimes it shows the wrong one like 460.0516. Has anyone else experienced this? I also heard it could be a cold solder joint problem, but it has shown up in the last few months, it has been fine before that. I've also realigned it early in 2003 and it had worked fine since until the last few months. It was made in 1987, December I think. Any ideas?

Chuck

DE KA3WRW

 

[Chris-M]

I have a PRO2004. Bought it new and it's a great scanner!

Fortunately I've never heard of that problem. Hope you get
it figured out. Definitely an aggrivating thing to have happening.

Do you have the service manual for the scanner? Maybe you can
find one and take it in to a specialist. That's what I'd do.

There are service manuals on EBAY from time to time.

 

[jmp883]

Displaying Wrong Frequency

Check your owner's manual to see if you can manually set the frequency steps. All scanners that require the entry of the frequency via keyboard will automatically round off the frequency based on frequency steps established by the FCC.

Newer scanners will allow the user to manually change those steps. For instance the BC780 will allow the user to set the frequency steps at 5 KHz, 7.5 KHz, 10 KHz, 12.5 KHz, 25 KHz, 50 KHz, or 100 KHz. The user can also choose the auto mode, where the radio will automatically select the proper step based on the frequency entered. If the automatic mode doesn't work for you, try one of the manual modes. Either way, this should solve your problem.

Joe P
Emergency Services Dispatcher
Volunteer Firefighter
Scanner Buff

 

[pro92b]

This is a known problem with PRO-2004's made in 1987. The defect is not bad solder joints, but rather faulty copper plating in the plated-through holes in the PC board. The result over time is intermittent loss of contact in one or more of the top to bottom connections in the plated holes.

My PRO-2004 worked for 13 years before developing this problem. In the past two years I've had to repair it twice for bad plated holes. The bad news is that finding the poor connections is very time consuming and I ended up shot-gunning it. That is, I soldered top and bottom where component leads go through the holes. I also put wires in holes that had no component leads. It all took a long time, but the radio works as new now.

G&G has the PRO-2004 on its short list of unrepairable scanners and the PC board quality defect is the reason why.

 

[cdmandus]

Thanks for the relpies, All. I was toying with the 2004 and it seems like when I switch it off, it doesn't remember what I programmed into it, everything goes back to zero. I'm wondering if it could be the memory battery too so I'll try a new one and see what happens. I'll have to try out the suggestions here as well.

 

[DaveH]

The PRO-2004, despite that it is dated, was a very solidly built scanner with good features, and well worth keeping going, for most owners I have heard of.

If a new battery doesn't solve the memory loss problem, check the battery connections on the PCB; there has been at least one report of broken wires.

Now I have a question. Does anyone know a good source of replacement speakers? The top of the radio is flat and I placed a glass of beer (my own home-brewed..) on top, and some got spilled, and ran into the speaker grill which faces upward. Even after drying the sound became muffled. I'd like to get something that fits the internal plate it's mounted on. Meantime I use an outboard computer speaker inside, and my trusty Motorola box speaker when in the car.

Now, if I can only get around to ordering a new EL backlight that Lindsay was raving about....

Dave

 

[Chris-M]

re: backlight

Now, if I can only get around to ordering a new EL backlight that Lindsay was raving about....

Dave

I ordered and received my EL backlight and installed it the same day.
It took me about an hour. I also took some digital pics while I did the changeout. I didn't consult any repair manuals since at the time I didn't have one. It's not a difficult task. Now my backlight is so bright, that even on dim it's almost too bright! 8)
Recently I found a repair manual on EBAY and bought it; should be here soon. I plan on having my PRO2004 for a long time.

 

[bwhite]

Are your digital pics and procedure for replacing the EL available?
I'd like to see what I'm getting into.
Also, looks like the Ebay source for the ELs is gone, any idea where to look now?
Thanx

 

[Chris-M]

re backlight

Sure, I can put the pics I took on my server so you can see them. It's not that hard! Just take your time.
There is ONE left right now on EBAY! Get it quick! Only 1.5 days left and for $4.99 (about 8 bux with shipping) you can't go wrong. It says there are 3 available so if you miss the auction just send a message to the seller and I'm sure he'll get you fixed up.
This is the guy I bought mine from:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...;item=5742430566&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

I'll post here when I get my pics set up and the link to them.

Chris

 

[Chris-M]

pictures

I took a few pictures when I performed my backlight replacement.

http://n5cwm.dynip.com/backlight.html

There is no specific procedure that I can give you. I do have a PRO2004 repair manual on the way that I bought on EBAY last week. I basically just methodically took my scanner apart until I had access to the backlight.
Remove the top and bottom covers. The four front panel screws need to be removed to get access to the back side of the LCD display.
There are some wires that connect the front panel board to the main board. Be gentle when handling the scanner when it's apart. The old backlight is held in with an adhesive so be careful pullling it out. It slides out from behind the LCD display. I used shrink tubing when I reinstalled mine just like the factory did. There is a piece of black square foam that is visible in the first three images. It's there to keep dust and glare out.
I reinstalled mine. The LCD does not need to be removed, since the backlight is very thin and just slides out after you've cut the wires going to it. Cut them in the area where the factory shrink tubing is before you slide the old backlight out. I wasn't sure if it mattered which wire went where (orane and white) on the new backlight. You can see in my images where the wires are connected and the colors.
If you are in the Houston area I'll do it for you! It's very easy.

Chris