Pro 96 low audio output

[BaLa]

My Pro 96, has very low output thru the speaker/headphone jack.

I just bought a Speaker Mic from someone here at RR. And the internal speaker in my Pro96 is actually louder than the Speaker Mic.
As well as a speaker I have in my car for my 396t.
I also noticed, that while messing with it, I did something to the jack or connector and it got loud for a couple seconds but it went back down to 'normal'.
I don't think it matters any, but I'm using a connector like this.

http://images.belkin.com/F8V234-WHT/FUL1_F8V234-WHT.jpg

The Speaker Mic works great on my 396t, so that can be ruled out, which is also the reason why I think it has nothing to do with the connector.

Any ideas?

 

[fmon]

The circuit from CN3 does not have a resister. The earphone jack does, which reduces the output purposely to prevent potential ear damage.

Some have used a paper clip wrapped around the antenna jack to the earphone jack to bypass the resisters. Or, one could bypass them inside the radio.

 

[feedbak]

When you say a paper clip wrapped around the antenna jack, do you mean just the outermost of the BNC connector?
or
Do you mean the innermost (where antenna plugs in) of the BNC connector?

 

[fmon]

Metal to metal. A jack is something which receives a plug of sorts, in this case the antenna BnC is the plug. The earphone jack receives the earphone plug.

The circuit above reflects the system without earphone plug. This allows full circuit power to feed the speaker. When earphone is plugged in, the speaker circuit disengages and the two "politically correct" resisters engage between ground and the metal ring on the earphone jack which reduces full power to earphone and supposedly saving your eardrum (and a whining law suit). The paper clip bypasses the two resisters (and your law suit). :roll:

 

[BaLa]

cool thanks..
I figured out what happened when it got loud. the other end of the splitter was touching the connector of my antenna.


I'm not sure what I need to do inside the radio to make it work?
which part of CN3 needs to be connected to the antenna jack

 

[BaLa]

Ok So I figured it out,
Didn't want to do the outside thing....

I don't have a soldering iron, and never used one so I wasn't exactly comfortable doing that.

I do plan on getting a Hot Glue Gun to glue the cable in there, to where I don't have to worry about it coming loose.
It doesn't move a whole even when pulling on it.

 

[feedbak]

Wish I had the courage to open mine up....working up to it I guess.

 

[rescue161]

I'd be careful doing that as you can short pin 2 to ground when you connect/disconnect the speaker. R122 looks like a protection for that and you're bypassing that when you run a wire straight to the antenna connector. I would probably desolder R121 and put a jumper there. That way, you still have the protection from R122 when you're plugging up the speaker.

If you're dead set on using a paper clip or piece of wire to the antenna connection, then I'd at least advise you to turn the thing off before you connect/disconnect the speaker.

 

[BaLa]

Wish I had the courage to open mine up....working up to it I guess.

It's not a big deal.
Firt time I opened it up, I just did it to clean the keys out...

Now, my 396t I wont open it up, for a while anyways..

I would probably desolder R121 and put a jumper there.

never used a soldering iron..
or a desoldering iron?
I just didn't want to do the outside mod...

this makes me look like an idiot now, the only 'jumpers' I have ever seen are the ones that 'used' to be found in a computer motherboard and computer parts.

 

[rescue161]

A jumper just makes a short between two points, so instead of the resistor there, you'll have a small wire. I can't tell from the pictures, but if the board where R121 is at is not double-sided, then you could (shiver, especially if you can't solder all that well) flow solder on the opposite side to put solder between the two points where R121 connects at the board. This would be the same thing as removing R121 from the circuit.

I honestly think you'll be fine with the way you have it set up right now; just don't connect/disconnect the speaker while it's on.

 

[fmon]

Top of main board above and bottom view below. R121 does not need to be removed, instead bypass it with jumper. Ie, solder to pad next to CN3 then to other side. Or solder across on bottom. The black line in bottom pic is the jumper.

 

[feedbak]

It's not a big deal.
Firt time I opened it up, I just did it to clean the keys out...

Now, my 396t I wont open it up, for a while anyways..



never used a soldering iron..
or a desoldering iron?
I just didn't want to do the outside mod...

this makes me look like an idiot now, the only 'jumpers' I have ever seen are the ones that 'used' to be found in a computer motherboard and computer parts.

Is all there is just the 4 screws on the back?

 

[rescue161]

Thanks Frank, that confirms what I was saying earlier. Where did you get the schematics from?

 

[rescue161]

I meant to say "board layout", but I'd still like to have a set of schematics for this thing. Is there a service manual in PDF somewhere?

 

[BaLa]

Is all there is just the 4 screws on the back?

To get the back of yes..

 

[fmon]

To get the back of yes..

Thars two in the batt comp also for a total of 6.

 

[feedbak]

Thars two in the batt comp also for a total of 6.

So that is all you have to do to jumper it ?
Remove the 6 screws and do as per above?

 

[rescue161]

Yep, that should do it.