Problem with connectors ?

[k8niv]

Hey everyone, I bought some PL connectors awhile back, went with the Astatic brand PL connectors, there like 5.00 here each, since I have a handy cap hand I have to get someone else put them on, so I have a friend put them on and after a few months he has to do this again......the other day he went to take them PL connectors off a jumper I had and said he couldn't get them off with out messing them up.....guessing this is the cheaper brand of connectors ?......

What brand do you all use ?....

And is it best to solder them on or go to using a cramping tool these days ?...

This does get old, everytime I hang a wire up off the ground and have to leave the coax up in the air keep having a issue with the connectors, is there a permanent fix for this ?...

 

[jeepsandradios]

I use crimp for all connectors now. Simple, efficient.

As for issues if the connector is outside and waterproofed Ive not had issues with any.

 

[bharvey2]

I'd say that a properly installed crimp on would be the most reliable. I've soldered plenty but it takes practice to get them right. It's pretty easy to heat one up too much a mess up an installation even though it looks fine externally. I'd steer clear of the twist on ones.

With regard to weatherproofing, nothing about PL connectors is waterproof. They need to be waterproofed after being installed. I usually do one layer of teflon plumbers tape followed by vinyl mastic tape followed by Scotch 33+, each layered with a 50% lap and each of the layers extending past the previous layer. The teflon plumbers tape makes removal of the other tape much easier if needed. Others may disagree.

 

[mmckenna]

Crimp connectors are almost exclusively used across the industry. There are some that require soldering the center pin, but not all of them.

For any of the flexible cables, I have used only crimp connectors for a very long time and never had an issue with them. The investment in the crimpers is something to consider, plus some skill/practice. If budget isn't a challenge, I'd recommend going that route.

Probably more important is what the comfort level is with the person who is doing the installation for you. If they do better with solder connectors, then stick with that. Better connectors might help, but usually it's the skill of the person installing them that matters.

 

[jwt873]

For HF, I use the 'standard' solder PL259 connector for RG8/9913. but I cheat. I don't solder the braid. I just fold it back and screw the coax into the connector's threads. They 'bite' the coax and braid tightly.

I used to solder the braids through the little holes, but I find there isn't any difference in performance. Plus with soldering if you're not careful you risk melting/distorting the center dielectric.

I've got two runs right now (one to my Yagi and another to an inverted vee). The Yagi has been up 14 years, the vee for 8. No issues. I waterproof all my connections with Coax seal. Coax Seal 104 - Hand Moldable Watertight Coaxial Cable Seal Tape

For LMR400 VHF/UHF work, I only use N type crimp connectors.

 

[k8niv]

Years ago, I used to fold the braid back on the jacket and screw the body of the PL up on it, but didn't think then it was getting the right connection, but that's what I used to do too......years ago back in the early 80's.....

But now a days have to depend on someone else do all this, and he solders to braid in the small holes of the PL connector...it sux, but what can I do.......

 

[AB4BF]

After you have cut the braid to length, before you insert it into the PL-259, tin the braid with your soldering iron, then insert it. It will take a lot less heat through the holes and make an excellent connection. Also, I cut the center wire about an inch longer than needed. As it sticks out the center post I heat it up and let the copper suck the solder down and trim the excess with a cutter. Easy Peasy.

ETA, An Elmer showed me this years ago...