I've seen several types of ribbon cables that were indeed nothing more than a friction fit into their sockets with no kind of mechanical mechanism to release.
In the OPs photo, that type cable does have a mechanical release at one end at least. The other end could be soldered but likely has a duplicate mechanical release as well.
For that type flat ribbon cable, I've found that many fail after an unknown amount of proper disconnects and reconnects.
I saved one once by adding a sliver of the thinnest scotch tape I could find to the non contact side of the cable. That gave it just enough extra thickness to make a connection that lasted.
But... more times that I can count, once the cables start failing, only a new cable of the same length ad contact spacing and pitch would fix the device.
I was working on Davis Vantage Pro 2 weather console displays at the time. They use a similar ribbon cable between the RF/Data board and the large LCD display board.
Remove the ribbon cable on either end of that Davis console enough times and it would finally start displaying garbage or simply nothing.
And that was releasing the cable retention's first of course!
I finally found the correct ribbon cables with the correct number of contacts and pitch from Mouser. The length was a tad longer so I opted for a ribbon even a bit longer so I could fold it. That's always worked like a charm for me in the Davis consoles.
I don't really advise the scotch tape trick as adding even a fraction of thickness to the ribbon cable would likely damage the mechanically released connector at each end of the cable.
I also once cut an OEM Davis cable a hair shorter on each end. You could see by eye easily where the mechanical contact mechanism was applying pressure to the ribbon cables contacts. I cut my cable back so only fresh uncompressed contact surface was left.
This trick also worked but only one time. Cut off too much contact surface and you will get into a no contact area plus may bring the part of the cable that makes it thicker for easier handling into play. Force that into the mechanical retention socket and latch it shut and you can almost guarantee permanent damage to the connector soldered to the board(s).
In the end, it was definitely best to find the correct cable with the correct number of conductors and contact spacing and pitch.
If you can find one the exact length, fantastic. If you can only find one a bit longer, try that and make sure it's long enough to be folded on one end to reduce the length plus you also need to make sure the folded area will not add to much thickness to the cable making assembling the radio correctly impossible without putting a lot of undo pressure where the ribbon cable lay.
These cables are very cheap at Mouser and probably DigiKey as well and they both have no minimum orders.
I doubt you will find one of these type ribbon cables that is soldered at one end. They are designed to where they really can't be soldered unless a special part is mechanically attached to one of of the cable by the equipment manufacturer.
New sockets with retention mechanisms can also be found although that can be tricky and some are OEM specifically made to a device manufacturers specs. You may be able to salvage a good retention mechanism from a connector body of the same make and size though if the original retention part was broken. Believe me, the retention mechanisms can be broken very easily if you are the least bit unsure how to release some of them! I've broken my share but was lucky to have save a ton of salvaged spare parts boards I could remove the retention clip from.
In short, the clamp/unclamp contact cycles for the type of ribbon cables in the OPs picture do not seem to be very great.
I've had many many that could only handle maybe 5 to 10 reconnects before the cables contact ends simply would not make a good contact again. I've also seen some that handle a small amount of current through a few of the ribbon cables contacts. Those seemed to be the ones that failed first. Likely due to no longer being able to handle the amount of current needed to pass through those contact points. I was able to temporarily work around some by adding soldered bypass wires from connector to connect if there was room inside the device for my small gauge wire until I could get a new ribbon cable.
The ribbon cables that use friction fit sockets are usually made onto a almost clear brown plastic material. They are force fitted into a compression socket and are found on a lot of small LCD display modules like in cell phones or other smaller devices where there may not be room for a normal socket connector with a mechanical release mechanism. Honestly, as long as you have the tool to push these friction fit ribbon cables back into their sockets without kinking them, they seem to be able to handle many more reconnect cycles.
I probably missed some important steps here or just info but this is what I've found after many years of repairing modern day electronics since they started using these types of ribbon cables along with mechanically latched connectors.
I could not begin to count how many devices I've repaired by using stock off the shelf ribbon cables from Mouser over the years!
Of course if you do need to purchase a cable a bit longer and fold it to get the length correct, don't go hog wild and buy cables way longer than the original. Data signals may not like the increased length.
