Shortwave wire length.

eagle2046

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One thing about portable shortwave radios, make sure you have diode protection on external ports on your radio ( some have 3.5 mm external ports ), otherwise connect the long wire to the whip antenna as most portable’s have diode protection on the whip antenna but not all radios have diode protection on their external dedicated 3.5 mm ports.
 

Boombox

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One thing about portable shortwave radios, make sure you have diode protection on external ports on your radio ( some have 3.5 mm external ports ), otherwise connect the long wire to the whip antenna as most portable’s have diode protection on the whip antenna but not all radios have diode protection on their external dedicated 3.5 mm ports.
This is a very good idea. The Tecsun PL880 is an example of what you're talking about. And being that the two antenna ports connect after the diode protection, you may as well just use the whip antenna and clip a wire to it, and save the hassle of worrying about the EXT antenna jack frying your RF amp transistor.
 

KB2GOM

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This is a very good idea. The Tecsun PL880 is an example of what you're talking about. And being that the two antenna ports connect after the diode protection, you may as well just use the whip antenna and clip a wire to it, and save the hassle of worrying about the EXT antenna jack frying your RF amp transistor.
Let me preface this by saying that I am not trying to yank anyone's chain here, but here's the question:

Do we know for sure that there is diode protection on the whip antenna but not on the antenna port? That's seems so counter-intuitive to not protect the port where you might be tempted to hook up a really long antenna.

I ask because: (1) I haven't look inside my PL880 and (2) I do use the antenna port for connecting longer antennas.
 

eagle2046

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The Tecsun PL-880 does not have diode protection on it's external antenna input, so beware. While the internal telescopic whip antenna includes a reversed pair of 1N4148 diodes for static protection, the external antenna input completely lacks this built-in protection, making the RF front-end vulnerable to static charges and strong voltage spikes Static drain for outside long wire antenna.
 

K6GBW

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An easy fix for this is to just go to C.Crane radio and look for their Shortwave Reel Antenna. I has a clip to attach it to the radio antenna and or a plug for those equipt with it. The reel makes it tidy to use and the wire is 23.5' long, which is all you really need for broadcast listening. I use one with a shortwave radio I carry when traveling, or at least I used to before all the stations started getting shut down.
 

EAFrizzle

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An easy fix for this is to just go to C.Crane radio and look for their Shortwave Reel Antenna. I has a clip to attach it to the radio antenna and or a plug for those equipt with it. The reel makes it tidy to use and the wire is 23.5' long, which is all you really need for broadcast listening. I use one with a shortwave radio I carry when traveling, or at least I used to before all the stations started getting shut down.

I made one out of a small collapsible rod and reel for camping. Easy way to flick the wire up in a tree. Amazing what a difference even a 10' wire can make for SWBC.
 

Boombox

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Let me preface this by saying that I am not trying to yank anyone's chain here, but here's the question:

Do we know for sure that there is diode protection on the whip antenna but not on the antenna port? That's seems so counter-intuitive to not protect the port where you might be tempted to hook up a really long antenna.

I ask because: (1) I haven't look inside my PL880 and (2) I do use the antenna port for connecting longer antennas.
The only schematic I've found of the PL-880 shows no diode protection on the EXT jack, but diode protection on the whip.

And at least one PL-880 user on a shortwave subreddit (who seems to know how to work on radios) has also said this, presumably from looking at the radio itself, as well as the schematic. He had to replace his PL-880's RF amp FET, or was going to do that, being that his radio went inexplicably deaf above 15 MHz.

Now, why it would go deaf above 15 MHz and not below it also, that's a good question. One would think the RF amp transistor would work equally on both ends of the SW spectrum. But the guy did say the lack of diode protection on the EXT jack could be the culprit.

As for why Tecsun wouldn't protect the EXT antenna jack? Seems counterproductive, but my guess is that a lot of FET's get zapped when someone walks across a carpet, grabs the radio, and the static discharge goes to the whip and zaps the RF amp FET. Maybe that happens more than static on the EXT antenna going into the EXT jack. But that's just a guess.

Anyway, the schematic shows no protection diodes on the EXT jack, protection diodes on the whip. I'd just clip a wire to the whip. Both the EXT jack and whip go through the same circuitry -- at least according to the schematic.
 

eagle2046

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Those reel antennas work pretty well. I use them on Sangean 909X2 and my Malahit DSP SDR and other radios. I live in an HOA ( uh bad ) They made me take my Discone down. My Diamond Discone antenna was on the top of my garage on the first floor, so I did take it down. Mounted it in my attic, slightly higher than the garage mount, works great for my Icom R-7000. For my Kenwood R-5000 I set up a simple long wire in my attic about 40 feet long, also works great. The reel antennas are a good alternative as an option.
 
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saioke

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I tried using about 15-20 feet of speaker cable on my PL-330 and it didn't seem to make a difference clipping it onto the telescopic. Maybe it's because of my attempt to use it indoors but, I would expect at least a bit of improvement. Is it because there's no grounding to the wire? I would assume the radio would act as a ground though. Was thinking of buying one of those reel antennas but I'm not sure it would do me any good if some speaker wire doesn't.

I've ran the radio through my tram 1410 discone before. It done well on SW despite being rated for 25mhz. But that discone is coming down one day, because I bought it for 400mhz+ scanning and it's just worse than any other antenna I've tried for the same bands. I think I'll put it on fb marketplace for 20-30 bucks.

Currently use an MLA-30 for shortwave which is okay, but it's very directional and I'll often get one-sided conversations on all of the ham bands and I won't get stations south/north of me. So I'd be interested in a better alternative, including a wire. But I couldn't get them that high unfortunately.
 

saioke

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Saioke, how are you running your wire inside? Just straight line or different angles?
I've ran it straight at an angle to a corner of the room. I've also strung it around horizontally up near the ceiling, and even on the floor, to make almost a square. I just haven't seen any improvement at all, maybe because I have a metal roof? Not sure, but my indoor scanner antennas do alright for 700+mhz p25. I was thinking of threading the wire through the wall and throwing it up on the roof but I figured I should be getting some improvement indoors at least.

My MLA-30 is mounted outside, about 16-17 feet up in the air mostly because I've heard it supposedly loses its null points being up high, but I personally don't think the null points are affected since I can still only pick up stations in NY for example, if I aim it N/S.
 

saioke

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Can you run it around your house and come in a window? Or out a window into a close by tree?
Horizontally? I don't see why I couldn't do that, just need to buy more wire lol. I have grounding wire in my garage though. It's pretty thick but it might work. Would it be better to go around the house or just sling the wire up on the roof to the other end? I live in a 1-story home though, so wouldn't be up that high, about 10-12 feet.

Unfortunately, no trees in my area.
 

Boombox

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I tried using about 15-20 feet of speaker cable on my PL-330 and it didn't seem to make a difference clipping it onto the telescopic. Maybe it's because of my attempt to use it indoors but, I would expect at least a bit of improvement. Is it because there's no grounding to the wire? I would assume the radio would act as a ground though. Was thinking of buying one of those reel antennas but I'm not sure it would do me any good if some speaker wire doesn't.

I've ran the radio through my tram 1410 discone before. It done well on SW despite being rated for 25mhz. But that discone is coming down one day, because I bought it for 400mhz+ scanning and it's just worse than any other antenna I've tried for the same bands. I think I'll put it on fb marketplace for 20-30 bucks.

Currently use an MLA-30 for shortwave which is okay, but it's very directional and I'll often get one-sided conversations on all of the ham bands and I won't get stations south/north of me. So I'd be interested in a better alternative, including a wire. But I couldn't get them that high unfortunately.
The PL-330 has two stages of SW gain (two FET RF amps) and some filtering in front of the DSP chip, so the radio has a lot of gain, even off the whip.

I noticed a definite improvement with my 25+ ft indoor, second story antenna, and even more with my 60 ft outdoor wire -- both clipped to the PL-330's whip. So it might be that your length of wire wasn't enough to really improve signals -- especially if you already have a lot of strong signals on SW in your region (my region, in the PNW US, is a relatively low SW signals area).

Longer than 20 feet would probably show an improvement. I'm not sure grounding would make a difference. I've never noticed a good difference in reception with any of my radios when grounding them. I've read comments by others who swear by grounding. So YMMV.

If you use a much longer wire, and happen to get some overload or blocking on your PL-330, either shorten the wire, or clip a 100-200 ohm resistor between the wire and the whip. I use a 150 ohm resistor if and when that happens. It gets rid of it really well on the rare occasions I get overload and / or blocking (usually from extra strong CBers or other super strong SW transmitters).
 

bearcatrp

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Horizontally? I don't see why I couldn't do that, just need to buy more wire lol. I have grounding wire in my garage though. It's pretty thick but it might work. Would it be better to go around the house or just sling the wire up on the roof to the other end? I live in a 1-story home though, so wouldn't be up that high, about 10-12 feet.

Unfortunately, no trees in my area.
Try slinging it over the roof. Let it dangle on the other side or tie it off on something. Everyone’s area is different so trying things is part of the hobby. That height should be fine. Post back your results.
 

K6GBW

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For receiving you can get away with a lot. You don't really need the super high antennas like you do when transmitting. An advantage of low antennas is they are usually quieter.
 

saioke

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Try slinging it over the roof. Let it dangle on the other side or tie it off on something. Everyone’s area is different so trying things is part of the hobby. That height should be fine. Post back your results.
I'll try this when I get some time, thanks! But I'm wondering, would it be worse to angle the wire? Like, going through the wall, up 90 degrees, then another 70-90degrees up to the roof? Or does that just not matter for receiving?
 

K6GBW

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The wire going through the wall can present problems if you have a stucco exterior. Stucco has chicken wire underneath, so that can act as a bit of a choke. To receive shortwave you don't really need to overthink it. You can try simply stretching out the wire in your house as most roofs are made of wood and shingle and are RF transparent. If that doesn't work then outside and make it horizontal or however is convenient. The waves are coming down from the ionosphere and after being refracted their polorization is all over the place. You might have less noise keeping the antenna away from the house, but experiment. Every installation is different. I had to reorient my dipole a few times till I found a spot that really worked well.
 

bearcatrp

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I'll try this when I get some time, thanks! But I'm wondering, would it be worse to angle the wire? Like, going through the wall, up 90 degrees, then another 70-90degrees up to the roof? Or does that just not matter for receiving?
Mine comes out the house, runs along side my house about 10 feet, then angled up a couple feet to the 1st tree, then strung along a line of trees about 50 feet, then a 90 degree turn for another 30 feet. Height is about 8 feet high. Is your wire plastic coated? Just run it out the best you can then see how it works. Tweak it from there.
 
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