Stryker Cb question

[slowmover]

For power on my Dodge I used a BLUE SEA MBRP fuse at BATT and 10-AWG ANCOR wire under split loom sheath.

 

[ur20v]

Speedtech Lights, or STL, is junk. As mentioned earlier, quality public safety warning equipment is virtually immune to this sort of problem. Time to upgrade your lightbar to a Whelen, Federal Signal, Tomar, Star Signal/Star Warning Systems, or Sound-Off Signal... Code 3 PSE was bought out by ECCO a while back, so they're no longer on the reliable list, sad to say.

 

[Shawnie671]

View attachment 136223

I’m on a President Texas 1800 on a larger Breedlove mount atop my private vehicle. It might be a coin toss between the two antennas highlighted.

Base load antenna and 6.5-7.0’ whip tip height.

The farther out the truck drivers hear you, the better. Tall antenna helps that. DSP thrn ensures a good match with both TX & RX range. As a driver I know the cars and trucks will start getting stupid ahead of reaching an OVERSIZE in transit. Hearing such I start to amend my placement in overtaking traffic several miles back (before the obstruction can be seen).

Focus on what’s best for radio performance, first, and let lightbar problems be adjusted afterwards.

You “may” need a different lightbar type. What is current brand/model & number?


I would also re-think radio mount location:
Installation Notes
.

I really appreciate your advice. I’m currently running a speed truck light. My antenna is a little Will magnetic. Let me see if I can find a picture of my set up to post so you can see where my lightbar and antenna is located. I’m trying to take everyone’s advice and check on everything everyone is suggesting. Yes, for me, distance is necessary. Like I said, I’ve been running a cb for years, I hold a current CDL. On the semi trucks, I never seemed to have issues. But this little pickup truck, I’m having a hard time with distance between equipment. Thank you again for help you offer.

 

[Shawnie671]

With Skip the way it is . . two miles needs Export wattage. Midday it’s hell getting past those in the pay of Evil screwing up AM-19. 4W won’t reach a half-mile on the Interstate.

I agree with experimenting with power. But I strongly advise best antenna and antenna mount as in my posts above, first.

The lightbar can go on a stakehole mount far back on the bed if nothing else works.

After antenna install is to bond the vehicle parts for best results:

Bonding

.

Yes I’m looking up the antenna set up you mentioned. My lightbar is mounted with brackets that clip on the door frame of back doors so it directly connected to truck. Do you think if I mounted it on backrack it would help?

 

[Shawnie671]

Speedtech Lights, or STL, is junk. As mentioned earlier, quality public safety warning equipment is virtually immune to this sort of problem. Time to upgrade your lightbar to a Whelen, Federal Signal, Tomar, Star Signal/Star Warning Systems, or Sound-Off Signal... Code 3 PSE was bought out by ECCO a while back, so they're no longer on the reliable list, sad to say.

I agree, STL isn’t great. But I lost my husband of 29 yrs almost a year ago and money is a bit tight right now. I would love to get a wheels soon as I can get back up and settled in life financially. Thanks for advice.

 

[Shawnie671]

This type work to your pickup will reveal to you how bad are 95% of pickup truck CB radio systems.

Ol’ Granny Frobisher in a minivan pilot car with an Export and a hard-mount antenna can talk circles around them all with an install follows k0bg guidelines.

I’ve run across this many times with pickups that fade out almost immediately. Not a problem of radio and/or power, but of a poor antenna system.

Determination to have a top shelf radio system is an extremely satisfying experience on completion. Quiet power straight from battery and antenna stuff as above

Hear, and Get Heard.

This is an upgrade to your vehicle. Nice clear Stryker audio punch is the feature for which you paid extra. Put it to work, as it’s not currently getting out as it should.

That radio — with the right install — commands respect. Big trucks can’t compete with a pro level install on a pickup or van as they can’t mount the antenna in the center of the mass of metal.

Do it right and you won’t hear another radio as good for weeks at a time (save base stations using amateur gear).

Be sure to add DSP speaker or control module if the radio isn’t the V2 released last year (NRC circuit & amber lighting option).

Stryker SR-65 mic also recommended.

.

Thank you. Yes I do believe that it’s something with the antenna. I thought this forum would be the perfect place to find those answers and suggestions to try. DSP? please explain. I’m not sure egsy that is. Please forgive my being uneducated on this stuff. I’m trying to learn. Thanks again.

 

[Shawnie671]

I agree, STL isn’t great. But I lost my husband of 29 yrs almost a year ago and money is a bit tight right now. I would love to get a wheels soon as I can get back up and settled in life financially. Thanks for advice.

WHELEN… sorry my phone kept changing the word. LOL

 

[Shawnie671]

This type work to your pickup will reveal to you how bad are 95% of pickup truck CB radio systems.

Ol’ Granny Frobisher in a minivan pilot car with an Export and a hard-mount antenna can talk circles around them all with an install follows k0bg guidelines.

I’ve run across this many times with pickups that fade out almost immediately. Not a problem of radio and/or power, but of a poor antenna system.

Determination to have a top shelf radio system is an extremely satisfying experience on completion. Quiet power straight from battery and antenna stuff as above

Hear, and Get Heard.

This is an upgrade to your vehicle. Nice clear Stryker audio punch is the feature for which you paid extra. Put it to work, as it’s not currently getting out as it should.

That radio — with the right install — commands respect. Big trucks can’t compete with a pro level install on a pickup or van as they can’t mount the antenna in the center of the mass of metal.

Do it right and you won’t hear another radio as good for weeks at a time (save base stations using amateur gear).

Be sure to add DSP speaker or control module if the radio isn’t the V2 released last year (NRC circuit & amber lighting option).

Stryker SR-65 mic also recommended.

RF Bond examples: Hood at rear and both door hinges. Horizontal surfaces have precedence. Bed to cab. Cab & bed at four corners to frame. Exhaust system after cat converter. Etc.

• View attachment 136241

View attachment 136242

This will increase antenna system performance and should help cut stray RF.

Could you possibly explain further? I’m not sure I’m fully understanding this. Thanks.

 

[slowmover]

I really appreciate your advice. I’m currently running a speed truck light. My antenna is a little Will magnetic. Let me see if I can find a picture of my set up to post so you can see where my lightbar and antenna is located. I’m trying to take everyone’s advice and check on everything everyone is suggesting. Yes, for me, distance is necessary. Like I said, I’ve been running a cb for years, I hold a current CDL. On the semi trucks, I never seemed to have issues. But this little pickup truck, I’m having a hard time with distance between equipment. Thank you again for help you offer.

Wow, really nice work vehicle!

Me? It’d be the permanent mount antennas I linked pics above. Roof center.

Lightbar somewhere else. On that rack as far away from roof center antenna as possible.

DSP = Digital Signal Processing. A filter CB’s don’t have built-in until just this past year. Voices stand out clearly with its use. No substitute for the difference it makes.

I’ve had a WEST MOUNTAIN RADIO CLEARSPEECH DSP SPEAKER since 2014. See review linked above for effectiveness (changes everything for better, but $225 these days).

Latest 955 has DSP built-in ($425). Or, highly similar (but no warranty) ANYTONE NT5555v2 ($250). Called NRC.



This radio is “menu-driven” (most adjustments are set & forget), but it is different than traditional CB (as you have with the 655). See reviews this site and elsewhere.

The Little Wil antenna has gotta go. They’re really awful compared to something good. Not up to the task you need done.

There’s two reasons you see us recommending permanent mount antenna:

1). Strong grip to sheetmetal both sides means the second half of the antenna (your vehicle) is acting as it should: getting that signal waaaay out there.

2). No coax draping roof and getting pinched coming in window or door (can damage radio).

Third, is that the tall antenna recommended simply performs better. Both transmission and reception. 5’ minimum, but 7’ (means 13’ clearance on my pickup) is easy to live with (slender steel whips can take strikes pretty well).

A SIRIO 5000 on their mag mount will get you by until a permanent mount is done.

This is the American distributor. I’ve bought from this site several times with zero problems.

Performer 5000 + PL-145 mag mount pkg.

Are you a human?

I recommend getting a piece of, like, memory foam and using a piece of something hard & round the coax connector can fit thru cut into one end of foam (encasing it)

This way it can enter vehicle thru least-used door with window shut against it (I tape over foam with black duct tape). But window cannot crush coax.

Still want to be able to open/shut door, so route coax in such a way it won’t bind or pull on anything door opens or shuts.

I recommend an external speaker for the same reason: performance. If the radio has DSP, then below is bombproof.

This is how I mounted a KENWOOD KES-5 under the drivers seat (used; eBay about $15; military & EMT/Fire/Police spec). I used speaker wire and an adaptor from the 10’ original wire to extend it to my radio.


Used this to plug into radio (Amazon), or a shop can solder a 3.5-mm plug for you.

Antenna & speaker will do wonders with that 655 you have. LIGHTBAR moved far away from new antenna should help.


The new (DSP-version) 955 will have a more commanding audio presence than the Anytone Q5N2 (above pic). I’d be happy with either.

A). Re-locate lightbar rearward. (Rack needs good DC ground and woven copper strap RF Bond (also called “ground”; but not the same meaning).

B). Sirio antenna on mag in use till matching permanent mount done. (RF bonds per link; hood, bed, door hinges, cab corners, etc).

C). Inexpensive external speaker installed (shown). Adjust seat as you use it. Speaker can go under seat or in front firing into footwell. Just don’t interfere with seat movement for your use. You’ll be able to hear your radio on side of road from 40-yards away.

D). Power from battery. Negative to a seat bolt or other DC ground (shortest run possible). Removes most vehicle noise.

Antenna system means the most for any installation. The radio is just a component we plug in to a system.

Systems (not components) are what really matter: antenna, coax, power.

Upgrade to better radio & lightbar as you can afford it. Don’t get halfway there and stop.

I’m one who as a truck driver really appreciate the hard nature of your job. Women can be excellent pilot car operators as the Mama Bear syndrome kicks in. That Oversize jockey has his hands full. (Am sorry for your recent loss).

My experience is that a pilot car WITH A GREAT RADIO SYSTEM has a much easier time in dealing with traffic and the prime mover.

A better radio rig WILL get more respect.
(Antenna being #1).

.

 

[slowmover]

If you don’t have one, an inexpensive SWR meter is how to tune the antenna to the vehicle

Astatic PDC2 - 100 Watt Power & SWR Meter

https://support.strykerradios.com/h...287174-Tuning-Your-Antenna-for-the-Lowest-SWR

 

[slowmover]

FWIW, with a great antenna system and DSP I can hear better and farther than those around me.

I have an earlier heads-up on road problems than others. Miles earlier.

Move lightbar and get better antenna + speaker. Plan new DSP radio or get speaker with it ASAP.

The road is getting worse, not better.
CB is a vital tool to me to help get home things get totally wonky.

My “expensive” radio system pays for itself 2-3X yearly in avoiding jams and maybe getting that next load I couldn’t otherwise (falling behind on an earlier delivery and being too late for that particular re-load).

Best systems + DSP is a world 99% of CB users don’t realize even exists.

.

 

[jeepsandradios]

Does no one use a true CB any longer ? My cobra is still 4 watts, has FCC acceptance and does what I need.

 

[slowmover]

Does no one use a true CB any longer ? My cobra is still 4 watts, has FCC acceptance and does what I need.

Skip is so strong (and the agents of Evil so prolific) that less than 35-40W is flat difficult to get heard in daylight hours. Things are above projections.



Do as you will, but an RM ITALY KL-203 is what many of us pair to a single-final CB to get heard on AM-19 The Travellers Channel. Be sure that antenna and power systems have no flaws.

Power is a crutch for big trucks and their terrible antenna mounts. Put your effort into the antenna SYSTEM. Power alone won’t fix a bad antenna choice, mount, or location.

On a JK or similar, needs to be on the hood.

— And I’d start over using the AT Q5N2 pictured above as DSP is a revolutionary change.

.

 

[Shawnie671]

Wow, really nice work vehicle!

Me? It’d be the permanent mount antennas I linked pics above. Roof center.

Lightbar somewhere else. On that rack as far away from roof center antenna as possible.

DSP = Digital Signal Processing. A filter CB’s don’t have built-in until just this past year. Voices stand out clearly with its use. No substitute for the difference it makes.

I’ve had a WEST MOUNTAIN RADIO CLEARSPEECH DSP SPEAKER since 2014. See review linked above for effectiveness (changes everything for better, but $225 these days).

Latest 955 has DSP built-in ($425). Or, highly similar (but no warranty) ANYTONE NT5555v2 ($250). Called NRC.

View attachment 136276

This radio is “menu-driven” (most adjustments are set & forget), but it is different than traditional CB (as you have with the 655). See reviews this site and elsewhere.

The Little Wil antenna has gotta go. They’re really awful compared to something good. Not up to the task you need done.

There’s two reasons you see us recommending permanent mount antenna:

1). Strong grip to sheetmetal both sides means the second half of the antenna (your vehicle) is acting as it should: getting that signal waaaay out there.

2). No coax draping roof and getting pinched coming in window or door (can damage radio).

Third, is that the tall antenna recommended simply performs better. Both transmission and reception. 5’ minimum, but 7’ (means 13’ clearance on my pickup) is easy to live with (slender steel whips can take strikes pretty well).

A SIRIO 5000 on their mag mount will get you by until a permanent mount is done.

This is the American distributor. I’ve bought from this site several times with zero problems.

Performer 5000 + PL-145 mag mount pkg.

Are you a human?

I recommend getting a piece of, like, memory foam and using a piece of something hard & round the coax connector can fit thru cut into one end of foam (encasing it)

This way it can enter vehicle thru least-used door with window shut against it (I tape over foam with black duct tape). But window cannot crush coax.

Still want to be able to open/shut door, so route coax in such a way it won’t bind or pull on anything door opens or shuts.

I recommend an external speaker for the same reason: performance. If the radio has DSP, then below is bombproof.

This is how I mounted a KENWOOD KES-5 under the drivers seat (used; eBay about $15; military & EMT/Fire/Police spec). I used speaker wire and an adaptor from the 10’ original wire to extend it to my radio.

View attachment 136279
Used this to plug into radio (Amazon), or a shop can solder a 3.5-mm plug for you.
View attachment 136280
Antenna & speaker will do wonders with that 655 you have. LIGHTBAR moved far away from new antenna should help.


The new (DSP-version) 955 will have a more commanding audio presence than the Anytone Q5N2 (above pic). I’d be happy with either.

A). Re-locate lightbar rearward. (Rack needs good DC ground and woven copper strap RF Bond (also called “ground”; but not the same meaning).

B). Sirio antenna on mag in use till matching permanent mount done. (RF bonds per link; hood, bed, door hinges, cab corners, etc).

C). Inexpensive external speaker installed (shown). Adjust seat as you use it. Speaker can go under seat or in front firing into footwell. Just don’t interfere with seat movement for your use. You’ll be able to hear your radio on side of road from 40-yards away.

D). Power from battery. Negative to a seat bolt or other DC ground (shortest run possible). Removes most vehicle noise.

Antenna system means the most for any installation. The radio is just a component we plug in to a system.

Systems (not components) are what really matter: antenna, coax, power.

Upgrade to better radio & lightbar as you can afford it. Don’t get halfway there and stop.

I’m one who as a truck driver really appreciate the hard nature of your job. Women can be excellent pilot car operators as the Mama Bear syndrome kicks in. That Oversize jockey has his hands full. (Am sorry for your recent loss).

My experience is that a pilot car WITH A GREAT RADIO SYSTEM has a much easier time in dealing with traffic and the prime mover.

A better radio rig WILL get more respect.
(Antenna being #1).

.

Thanks. I appreciate your kind words. I’m not sure where else I could put lightbar. I try to keep vehicle looking low profile. Maybe I should have gotten the Tahoe instead. That way I could space out antenna and lightbar better. Do you think a bed or hood mounted antenna would work?

 

[Shawnie671]

Does no one use a true CB any longer ? My cobra is still 4 watts, has FCC acceptance and does what I need.

I’m just asking for help and suggestions on interference between my lightbar and Cb. I don’t have anything crazy, just a styker Cb. These people are educated and knowledgeable so I thought it best to ask their opinions.

 

[slowmover]

Thanks. I appreciate your kind words. I’m not sure where else I could put lightbar. I try to keep vehicle looking low profile. Maybe I should have gotten the Tahoe instead. That way I could space out antenna and lightbar better. Do you think a bed or hood mounted antenna would work?

Any way possible that lightbar could go on the BACK RACK?

 

[Shawnie671]

Any way possible that lightbar could go on the BACK RACK?

My previous vehicle had the light bar mounted on top of the back rack and I still have the problem. The light would light up when I spoke on a CB. It just drives me crazy. I really wish there was a simple solution. Lol but I’m gonna try everyone suggestions and look into everything.

 

[slowmover]

It’s a double-edged sword of adequate power versus proximity.

Better antenna (and bonding) will be first right step.

 

[Shawnie671]

Thanks. I appreciate your kind words. I’m not sure where else I could put lightbar. I try to keep vehicle looking low profile. Maybe I should have gotten the Tahoe instead. That way I could space out antenna and lightbar better. Do you think a bed or hood mounted antenna would work?

Ok. Yes I’ve looked them up. Any preference of which one? Pros/cons?

 

[jhooten]

Slow,

It is a Denali. I'll bet a dollar to a Donut it has a motorized sunroof. Ain't no way to put the antenna in the center of the roof if so.

Shawnie,

Nice truck. Yes, even though you may loose the air deflector put the lightbar on the rack. If for no other reason than better visibility.

Get rid of the little will. They are the worst antenna Wilson makes and I've seen the loading coil fail running much less power than the 300 watts Wilson claims they will take. Call me crazy but even with a stock, legal power, Uniden 510, 980SSB or 148GTL I use a quarter wave stainless steel whip fed by RG8X or LMR240.