Three noise reduction tools that I can't live without, and how I make the most of them...

mayidunk

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
157
In spite of the usual things we do to reduce and eliminate local noise, we still find ourselves plagued with having to deal with high noise floors, noise induced by local sources, and just having a hard time being able to make out what someone is saying! Aside from the digital noise reduction (DNR) tools that have quickly become rather standard in todays HF receivers, especially SDRs, there are three tools that have proven time and time again to be the most effective in enabling me to pull those hard to hear voices out of the dirt.

The first one is the JPS ANC-4 (now the Timewave ANC+) Antenna Noise Canceller. Here is a brief description of what this does taken from Timewave's ANC+ User Manual:

"The ANC-4+ is an rf device which is designed to provide cancellation of locally
generated noise from signals received by a primary antenna. This unit is employed
right at the antenna connector of the receiver or transceiver to cancel locally gener-
ated noise, such as power line noise, computer noise, TV-generated interference,
etc., before it gets into the receiver and affects the receiver AGC circuits. This
will allow the reception of signals well below the noise level induced by the local
interference."


The second tool is the MFJ-616 Speech Intelligibility Enhancer. This tool is basically a four band EQ that allows you to enhance and contour the frequencies in the vocal range (300Hz, 600 Hz, 1200 Hz, and 2400 Hz) that our ears are most sensitive to. What makes this stand out from other EQ's is the high "Q" of the filters used, and the steepness of the slopes of the EQ curves (I'm guessing they're on the order of 24 dB/Octave), allowing for more aggressive adjustments.

I have fairly bad hearing from years of too loud stereos, I can no longer hear much over 6-7 kHz. (If I jingle my keys, I can barely hear them!) I can listen to music without really missing anything as I can still hear all the fundamentals well enough. However, hearing people during normal conversation can be a problem, especially if the ambient noise level is higher than normal. I can hear them speaking, I just can't make out what they're saying! This has proven to be more of a problem when listening to voices on the radio. Unless they're loud and clear, I miss parts of what they say. The higher the background noise, the less I can make out what they say.

The MFJ-616, with its aggressive tone controls, has done more to enable me to hear what people say than any other noise reduction tool I have ever used. Such that, if I were stranded on a desert island with only a basic radio, and the choice to bring only one noise reduction tool, the MFJ-616 would be my first choice!

Finally, the third tool is the RF Gain control. Before doing anything else, I'll first tune to the band I want to listen to, tuning to where there are no signals. With the RF Gain set to maximum signal, I will then get the S-Meter "bouncing" at mid-point, turning on a preamp or attenuator if needed to do so. Then, I adjust the ANC-4 to get the lowest S-Meter reading I possibly can. If the indicator gets too low, I just turn off an attenuator, or turn on another preamp, and continue adjusting until the indicator bottoms out. I will then try to get the S-Meter to settle at below 1 S-Unit, with a slight bounce, using the preamp(s), and the attenuators built into the receiver. Doing all of this ensures that I have the best baseline S/N to work from. Unless the best baseline S/N is properly established, you won't get the maximum benefit out of all of your other noise reduction tools and methods!

After that, I will then tune to the frequency I wish to monitor, and proceed to use the RF Gain control to minimize the noise, while maximizing the signal. Then, if it's still too noisy, I'll turn on the digital noise filter, and set that to where the noise is further reduced. Then, I'll adjust the RF Gain a bit more to further reduce whatever noise artifacts are left over from the DNR without degrading the signal. (It can be a fine line to ride!) After all that has been accomplished, I will then use the MFJ-616 to fine tune the resulting sound.

A word about DNR settings. I've found that the FT-710's DNR is smooth up to level 7. After that, it gets more agggressive to where you get that "underwater" sound. However, I've also come to realize that if you let the DNR do its thing at these more aggressive settings, it will quickly differentiate the noise from the signal, and will begin to make the signal more and more intelligible! When it's really noisy, I love setting the DNR to its highest level, and listen to it suddenly bring out the voice so it's very clear against all the noise and warbeling! I've learned to not judge the DNR setting immediately after turning to it. It needs to settle down a bit, before you can accurately determine whether or not the setting will be enough!

There you have it. The ANC-4 is very effective at reducing locally induced RF noise, especially impulse noise. The RF Gain control enables you to further reduce RF noise, as well as artifacts left by DNR. And, finally, the MFJ-616 is really effective at lifting voices out of the noise, and fine tuning them so they're more understandable.

The ANC-4 controls what signals are coming into the radio, the RF Gain control helps you to further control that signal while it's still inside the radio, and the MFJ-616 helps you control that signal as it comes out of the radio!

While the ANC-4 and the MFJ-616 may be expensive, to me they're worth their weight in gold! On the other hand, the RF Gain control doesn't cost a thing, and is also very effective at increasing the S/N, even if you have no other tools you can use! I've heard of how old Hams used to turn the RF Gain all the way down, turn the volume all the way up, and then use the RF Gain control as their volume control!

Hey, whatever works!

Happy DXing!
 

KB2GOM

Active Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
742
Location
Rensselaer County New York
In spite of the usual things we do to reduce and eliminate local noise, we still find ourselves plagued with having to deal with high noise floors, noise induced by local sources, and just having a hard time being able to make out what someone is saying! Aside from the digital noise reduction (DNR) tools that have quickly become rather standard in todays HF receivers, especially SDRs, there are three tools that have proven time and time again to be the most effective in enabling me to pull those hard to hear voices out of the dirt.

The first one is the JPS ANC-4 (now the Timewave ANC+) Antenna Noise Canceller. Here is a brief description of what this does taken from Timewave's ANC+ User Manual:

"The ANC-4+ is an rf device which is designed to provide cancellation of locally
generated noise from signals received by a primary antenna. This unit is employed
right at the antenna connector of the receiver or transceiver to cancel locally gener-
ated noise, such as power line noise, computer noise, TV-generated interference,
etc., before it gets into the receiver and affects the receiver AGC circuits. This
will allow the reception of signals well below the noise level induced by the local
interference."


The second tool is the MFJ-616 Speech Intelligibility Enhancer. This tool is basically a four band EQ that allows you to enhance and contour the frequencies in the vocal range (300Hz, 600 Hz, 1200 Hz, and 2400 Hz) that our ears are most sensitive to. What makes this stand out from other EQ's is the high "Q" of the filters used, and the steepness of the slopes of the EQ curves (I'm guessing they're on the order of 24 dB/Octave), allowing for more aggressive adjustments.

I have fairly bad hearing from years of too loud stereos, I can no longer hear much over 6-7 kHz. (If I jingle my keys, I can barely hear them!) I can listen to music without really missing anything as I can still hear all the fundamentals well enough. However, hearing people during normal conversation can be a problem, especially if the ambient noise level is higher than normal. I can hear them speaking, I just can't make out what they're saying! This has proven to be more of a problem when listening to voices on the radio. Unless they're loud and clear, I miss parts of what they say. The higher the background noise, the less I can make out what they say.

The MFJ-616, with its aggressive tone controls, has done more to enable me to hear what people say than any other noise reduction tool I have ever used. Such that, if I were stranded on a desert island with only a basic radio, and the choice to bring only one noise reduction tool, the MFJ-616 would be my first choice!

Finally, the third tool is the RF Gain control. Before doing anything else, I'll first tune to the band I want to listen to, tuning to where there are no signals. With the RF Gain set to maximum signal, I will then get the S-Meter "bouncing" at mid-point, turning on a preamp or attenuator if needed to do so. Then, I adjust the ANC-4 to get the lowest S-Meter reading I possibly can. If the indicator gets too low, I just turn off an attenuator, or turn on another preamp, and continue adjusting until the indicator bottoms out. I will then try to get the S-Meter to settle at below 1 S-Unit, with a slight bounce, using the preamp(s), and the attenuators built into the receiver. Doing all of this ensures that I have the best baseline S/N to work from. Unless the best baseline S/N is properly established, you won't get the maximum benefit out of all of your other noise reduction tools and methods!

After that, I will then tune to the frequency I wish to monitor, and proceed to use the RF Gain control to minimize the noise, while maximizing the signal. Then, if it's still too noisy, I'll turn on the digital noise filter, and set that to where the noise is further reduced. Then, I'll adjust the RF Gain a bit more to further reduce whatever noise artifacts are left over from the DNR without degrading the signal. (It can be a fine line to ride!) After all that has been accomplished, I will then use the MFJ-616 to fine tune the resulting sound.

A word about DNR settings. I've found that the FT-710's DNR is smooth up to level 7. After that, it gets more agggressive to where you get that "underwater" sound. However, I've also come to realize that if you let the DNR do its thing at these more aggressive settings, it will quickly differentiate the noise from the signal, and will begin to make the signal more and more intelligible! When it's really noisy, I love setting the DNR to its highest level, and listen to it suddenly bring out the voice so it's very clear against all the noise and warbeling! I've learned to not judge the DNR setting immediately after turning to it. It needs to settle down a bit, before you can accurately determine whether or not the setting will be enough!

There you have it. The ANC-4 is very effective at reducing locally induced RF noise, especially impulse noise. The RF Gain control enables you to further reduce RF noise, as well as artifacts left by DNR. And, finally, the MFJ-616 is really effective at lifting voices out of the noise, and fine tuning them so they're more understandable.

The ANC-4 controls what signals are coming into the radio, the RF Gain control helps you to further control that signal while it's still inside the radio, and the MFJ-616 helps you control that signal as it comes out of the radio!

While the ANC-4 and the MFJ-616 may be expensive, to me they're worth their weight in gold! On the other hand, the RF Gain control doesn't cost a thing, and is also very effective at increasing the S/N, even if you have no other tools you can use! I've heard of how old Hams used to turn the RF Gain all the way down, turn the volume all the way up, and then use the RF Gain control as their volume control!

Hey, whatever works!

Happy DXing!
What a wonderful write-up!

Based on your recommendation, I was just fooling around with my IC-706MKIIG, listening to some hams on 7235. I turned down the RF gain until the signal was just popping up above the threshold. It worked! The noise did not completely vanish, but the signal was much, much more pleasant to listen to.

Sadly, most portables do not have an RF gain control. My Satellit 800 (a luggable) has an attenuator, but it is not robust enough to do the job.

Anyway, well done!
 

mayidunk

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
157
Thank you for the kind words! I checked out your websites; very nice photos, and what an excellent public service you're providing for those commuters in Troy! I'm sure local PS and EMS folks are grateful for that repeater. Nice!
 

mayidunk

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Messages
157
Caution: Extremely tedious wall of text just ahead! Rules of thumb, and much approximation are in use, so just roll with it...

In my initial post, I kind of insinuated that any combination of preamp and attenuator setting would work to get the S-Meter to bouncing at just below S-1 when setting the baseline S/N. In fact, I try to avoid using any of the preamps unless I have to, but that doesn't mean I won't use them. However, I won't hesitate to use an attenuator if the input is higher than S-1.

The goal, for me anyway, is to try to keep the background noise from bouncing the S-Meter past S-1 if at all possible.
So, knowing that a change of 1 S-Unit equals 6dB of change (until you hit S-8), I can roughly figure what I can do to achieve my goal.

On the FT-710, each attenuator will decrease the signal by 6 dB, or 1 S-Unit. All three together decreases the signal by 18 dB, or 3 S-Units. Each preamp will increase the signal by 10dB, or approximately 1.5 S-Units. Adding both preamps will increase the signal by 20 dB, or approximately 3 dB. So, between the attenuators and the preamps, I have a +/- 3 S-Unit swing from the zero point of the noise floor coming into the radio.

As I've already said (a million times...), my goal is to try to keep the background noise from bouncing the S-Meter past S-1 if at all possible. Sometimes I can achieve that, sometimes I can't. And, since Yaesu recommends keeping one preamp turned on to achieve maximum S/N, I have to constantly fight wanting to keep the preamps out of the mix because it's pounded into me that very amp in the chain will increase the noise along with the signal. So I struggle with whether to keep the preamp in, and add an attenuator, or just keep them both out of the signal chain.

What's a poor boy to do?

I know, I'll add 16 dB going into the radio, and subtract what I can't use with the attenuators! Okay, stop wincing... I don't have an outdoor antenna, instead I use a Compactenna SW (How many readers did I just lose?) which works absolutely fantastic as it receives signals from just above 30 Mhz, to well below 1.8 MHz easily, and just seems to be impervious to local noise... to a point. (Remember, rules of thumb... Approximations all over the place?!) However, it doesn't provide any gain. In fact, it decreases the signal level as a consequence of it's unique design. So, to compensate for that loss, I added a DXE RPA-2 Antenna Preamp to the antenna lead-in just before the radio. It adds 16dB of clean amplification to the signal. It's specs rival that of most high end receivers, so I don't particularly worry about overload.

So, along with the +/- 3 S-Units from the attenuators and preamps in the radio, I also have +/- 2.6 S-Units that I can play with from the antenna amp! And, the additional 2.6 S-Units will not affect the dynamic range of the signal into the IF, as it will appear as antenna gain to the front end! If I want to lose 2.6 S-Units, I simply turn off the antenna amp.

So, with all of this, I manage to get that S-Meter bouncing below S-1 most of the time without having to add internal preamps. Sometimes I have no choice, and have to add a preamp, but for the most part it's not an issue. Of course, I don't get that perfect S/N that Yaesu claims I'll get by keeping one preamp in the mix... But I can't help myself, it's drummed into my head! Anyway, I doubt I'd even hear the difference if I had to.

By the way, for those of you who have to have stealth antenna setups because of lease requirements, HOAs, or nosey PITA neighbors, the Compactenna SW really, really works! I have to keep mine in the house, so I have it on a magmount on a steel sheet for a ground plane. That steel sheet is also tied to the Earth ground as well, as it isn't quite the size recommended by the designer. Whatever, it works! However, this is by no means a budget set-up. It is decidedly spendy.

Heck, it's outrageously extravagant! What was I thinkin'???!!!

But, it keeps me at home, off the streets, and out of trouble, so I guess that must be worth it... to someone, anyway. Besides, it's the best way I know to get it all spent before check-out time...

Annyy-waaayyy!

So, there you have it folks. Yup! This is an endeavor that has no other end but to allow me to sit in front of this radio, and play. It serves no other purpose. It is decidely wasteful. I am a nasty, nasty man for wasting so much money for so little helpful return.

Let he who is without...

Annyy-waaayyy!!

If you've lasted this long, you need as much help as I do! But, I hope that this might be of some service to someone. As I alluded to at the beginning, this can likely be torn apart by someone with a good slide rule, and the right books at hand. I'm okay with that, I'm having fun! Wait until that guy runs into all this at the Goodwill after I'm gone! (And, no, I'm not even close to the check-out line, yet...) Imagine the look on his face when he sees all this, for $9.99! Each! He'll sell that slide rule, and those books real quick!

But, I digress...

Thanks for playing. ;)
 
Last edited:

KB2GOM

Active Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
742
Location
Rensselaer County New York
Caution: Extremely tedious wall of text just ahead! Rules of thumb, and much approximation are in use, so just roll with it...

In my initial post, I kind of insinuated that any combination of preamp and attenuator setting would work to get the S-Meter to bouncing at just below S-1 when setting the baseline S/N. In fact, I try to avoid using any of the preamps unless I have to, but that doesn't mean I won't use them. However, I won't hesitate to use an attenuator if the input is higher than S-1.

The goal, for me anyway, is to try to keep the background noise from bouncing the S-Meter past S-1 if at all possible.
So, knowing that a change of 1 S-Unit equals 6dB of change (until you hit S-8), I can roughly figure what I can do to achieve my goal.

On the FT-710, each attenuator will decrease the signal by 6 dB, or 1 S-Unit. All three together decreases the signal by 18 dB, or 3 S-Units. Each preamp will increase the signal by 10dB, or approximately 1.5 S-Units. Adding both preamps will increase the signal by 20 dB, or approximately 3 dB. So, between the attenuators and the preamps, I have a +/- 3 S-Unit swing from the zero point of the noise floor coming into the radio.

As I've already said (a million times...), my goal is to try to keep the background noise from bouncing the S-Meter past S-1 if at all possible. Sometimes I can achieve that, sometimes I can't. And, since Yaesu recommends keeping one preamp turned on to achieve maximum S/N, I have to constantly fight wanting to keep the preamps out of the mix because it's pounded into me that very amp in the chain will increase the noise along with the signal. So I struggle with whether to keep the preamp in, and add an attenuator, or just keep them both out of the signal chain.

What's a poor boy to do?

I know, I'll add 16 dB going into the radio, and subtract what I can't use with the attenuators! Okay, stop wincing... I don't have an outdoor antenna, instead I use a Compactenna SW (How many readers did I just lose?) which works absolutely fantastic as it receives signals from just above 30 Mhz, to well below 1.8 MHz easily, and just seems to be impervious to local noise... to a point. (Remember, rules of thumb... Approximations all over the place?!) However, it doesn't provide any gain. In fact, it decreases the signal level as a consequence of it's unique design. So, to compensate for that loss, I added a DXE RPA-2 Antenna Preamp to the antenna lead-in just before the radio. It adds 16dB of clean amplification to the signal. It's specs rival that of most high end receivers, so I don't particularly worry about overload.

So, along with the +/- 3 S-Units from the attenuators and preamps in the radio, I also have +/- 2.6 S-Units that I can play with from the antenna amp! And, the additional 2.6 S-Units will not affect the dynamic range of the signal into the IF, as it will appear as antenna gain to the front end! If I want to lose 2.6 S-Units, I simply turn off the antenna amp.

So, with all of this, I manage to get that S-Meter bouncing below S-1 most of the time without having to add internal preamps. Sometimes I have no choice, and have to add a preamp, but for the most part it's not an issue. Of course, I don't get that perfect S/N that Yaesu claims I'll get by keeping one preamp in the mix... But I can't help myself, it's drummed into my head! Anyway, I doubt I'd even hear the difference if I had to.

By the way, for those of you who have to have stealth antenna setups because of lease requirements, HOAs, or nosey PITA neighbors, the Compactenna SW really, really works! I have to keep mine in the house, so I have it on a magmount on a steel sheet for a ground plane. That steel sheet is also tied to the Earth ground as well, as it isn't quite the size recommended by the designer. Whatever, it works! However, this is by no means a budget set-up. It is decidedly spendy.

Heck, it's outrageously extravagant! What was I thinkin'???!!!

But, it keeps me at home, off the streets, and out of trouble, so I guess that must be worth it... to someone, anyway. Besides, it's the best way I know to get it all spent before check-out time...

Annyy-waaayyy!

So, there you have it folks. Yup! This is an endeavor that has no other end but to allow me to sit in front of this radio, and play. It serves no other purpose. It is decidely wasteful. I am a nasty, nasty man for wasting so much money for so little helpful return.

Let he who is without...

Annyy-waaayyy!!

If you've lasted this long, you need as much help as I do! But, I hope that this might be of some service to someone. As I alluded to at the beginning, this can likely be torn apart by someone with a good slide rule, and the right books at hand. I'm okay with that, I'm having fun! Wait until that guy runs into all this at the Goodwill after I'm gone! (And, no, I'm not even close to the check-out line, yet...) Imagine the look on his face when he sees all this, for $9.99! Each! He'll sell that slide rule, and those books real quick!

But, I digress...

Thanks for playing. ;)
Does the FT-710 have an actual RF gain control or just the attenuators?
 
Top