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Why CB is DEAD

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slowmover

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Wow very interesting. I pretty much gave up on the noise issue with my truck. Using a mag mount helped a lot but didn’t get rid of it entirely. My Truck just doesn’t like cb radios and I’ve accepted that lol


Don’t give up. Read & Reflect.
A few days, weeks or months aren’t important so much as the desire to tackle it again.


Where I started with big trucks and where I am now is like night & day. Just perseverance.

https://palomar-engineers.com/wp-co...-Mode-Noise-on-Coax-User-Diagnosis-Test-1.pdf


This guy didn’t give up. But maybe he should have read around for better advice.
28A4FB81-54E4-4036-B4E5-AE6C3B643FEF.jpeg

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W8HDU

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I really wish the fellow above would stop by our shop. I have (3) 15' Station Master antennas I would give him to mount on the car.
 

krokus

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... below is the sheetmetal remnant of pulling a radio chassis punch through on 5/8” (atop a connector center section for scale).

Drill a pilot hole and crank the punch. Done.
Beautiful, clean hole needing nothing more.

View attachment 130444

The hole punch is not the best way to make an antenna mount opening. They have a strong tendency to deform the metal, thinning it, during the process. Frequent poster @mmckenna, along with others that have solid reputations, strongly suggest a hole saw made for metal. (Not the ones commonly found in home improvement stores, which are meant for wood.) With a little bit of searching, you can see this advice in multiple antenna installation threads.
 

mmckenna

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I'm starting to think there is a real difference between vehicles and body thickness.
I've never had an issue using the chassis punch on a vehicle. That's usually been pickups/SUV's and a few American cars.

If you had to buy one tool to do NMO installs, the purpose built NMO hole saws are the way to go. Depth limitation is handy, and they are designed for that. High tooth count on the blade means less chance of boogering up the body. Shorter pilot drill depth means no holes where you don't want them. It's a tool designed for a specific job, and it does it well.

Since I do this frequently, I have a few options.
Favorite is the Laird NMO hole saws. They consistently work. Drawback is the price. It's a bit hard for hobbyists to justify blowing $50 on a hole saw for one or two NMO installs. It does a nice job, but the price will turn some off. Replaceable saw blades mean it can last a lifetime (unless you loan it to someone and never get it back….)
The chassis punches are nice. They don't make as much of a mess and are a bit more controlled. Not cheap for a good one. You still have to drill a pilot hole. It has its place in my tool box. Not the most frequently used tool, but it is an option. It's a great option if you need to "imbiggen" an existing hole. They make a super clean hole.

I did get in a jam once and needed a hole saw but didn't have the Laird on hand. I went to a Home Depot and found they had perfectly useable 3/4 hole saws. Made by DeWalt and designed specifically for metal use.
3/4" (19mm) IMPACT READY® Hole Saw | DEWALT
No depth limitation, so not my first choice. It did what I needed and kept me from having to stop the job. It's still in my work truck, but next to the Laird hole saw now.

Right tool for the job, but there are options and choosing the right one depends on the exact application. For most people, the Laird hole saws are your best choice. Less chance of screwing things up. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
Chassis punches are an option and a good choice for some installations. Not for everyone, though.
Hole saws designed for wood are not a good choice. The low tooth count/aggressive nature makes them prone to mistakes. No way I'd do that, but in my younger years I did. Glad I learned before really making a mess.

It usually comes down to the user, not the tool. Some people shouldn't touch tools. There's skill/experienced involved. User needs to be smarter than the tool, and that is not always possible for some.
Whatever, as long as it makes a clean 0.750" hole, you're probably OK. Just depends on the risk you are willing to take.

I still think my retirement side hustle is going to be roaming the country doing NMO installs for people that don't want to risk doing it themselves. I'll charge extra to do it late at night when your wife isn't paying attention. Might be willing to work for beer.
 

slowmover

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The hole punch is not the best way to make an antenna mount opening. They have a strong tendency to deform the metal, thinning it, during the process. Frequent poster @mmckenna, along with others that have solid reputations, strongly suggest a hole saw made for metal. (Not the ones commonly found in home improvement stores, which are meant for wood.) With a little bit of searching, you can see this advice in multiple antenna installation threads.


I understand the premise — appreciate it — and yet can say using a radio chassis punch was easy, clean and wholly “right tool”. I found sufficient others having used this I was satisfied (it was the tool they’d used multiple times). I had access to the underside as I also had to drill (4) holes for the reinforcing plate.

Were I not dropping the headliner on one side — working only from dome light access — I’d pony up for the Laird. That limiting factor of space to work the tool versus using a radio chassis punch as my truck has the rib centered across that opening.

I’d bet there are more uses of a multi-step Unibit type than anything else. At least there seemed to be in the forums I searched and videos I sought were of pickup trucks. I found that to be an uncomfortable choice.

Agreed about tools: some guys have no feel for them. Not being squared up during the cut, and/or not snugged up properly beforehand? I can see metal-stretch, then. I do not see it that this is an inferior choice. That’s tool steel and “the pull thru” could hardly be felt.

The main reason I posted what I did was to emphasize the job isn’t hard. It’s best to get on with it to have a proper antenna mount as permanent-type trumps the rest.

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W8HDU

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At the risk of starting more debate, the roof mounts for about a dozen antennas was a step bit. Hole was cleanly cut with nor deforming of the metal. The biggest problem in some of the trucks was to clean about 0.250" around the hole so the NMO mount would make a good contact to metal. The coating that is put on some vehicles can provide some resistance even to a firmly clamped NMO flange. I've seen it done with a punch, standard drill bit, saw, etc. Side note: and I've always drilled up, rather than down, as I saw one guy doing a police car and he cut into the headliner.

Is there a absolute way? Probably not. It's all opinion as to the tools one uses to get the job done. Sort of like some musicians like Fender, others Gibson. My focus was on the mounts electrical connection for ground plane.

Old joke ... when asked where to mount the antenna on a Jeep Liberty, the answer was ... on another vehicle.
 
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