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XTL 5000

W0RS

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Currently I have a HMN4044 hand control mic which I believe is a W3 but not sure, that I am using on a XTL-5000. I want to convert over to a O5 control head, which I believe is what originally was on the XTL 5000. Does anyone know what I would need to make the conversion, can I use the same tib, changes to software settings, cable, etc?
 

MTS2000des

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Simply change the CH type in CPS first to M5/O5 (it will warn you that doing so without the right hardware will cause issues), you will need a new TIB that supports GCAI and flex, install hardware, connect desired O5/CHIB and cabling for the new head and you're good to go. No "depot" or anything odd needed.
 

W0RS

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Simply change the CH type in CPS first to M5/O5 (it will warn you that doing so without the right hardware will cause issues), you will need a new TIB that supports GCAI and flex, install hardware, connect desired O5/CHIB and cabling for the new head and you're good to go. No "depot" or anything odd needed.
Thanks so much for your response! Since I have you here I am going to pick your brain 😁. Currently, as you can see from the photo’s, this is not an ideal install for me in a Acura 2013 suv. The biggest hurdle for me is the large cable and the fact that I need to stay close to a power source. Do you per chance know of a smaller cable? I think as I had already mentioned that I want to change out from the handheld control mic and go to the remote mount of the control head…..

Any suggestions would be great!

ThanksIMG_20240721_180855539~2.jpgIMG_20240721_180817877.jpgIMG_20240721_180707684~2.jpg
 

W0RS

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Thanks so much for your response! Since I have you here I am going to pick your brain 😁. Currently, as you can see from the photo’s, this is not an ideal install for me in a Acura 2013 suv. The biggest hurdle for me is the large cable and the fact that I need to stay close to a power source. Do you per chance know of a smaller cable? I think as I had already mentioned that I want to change out from the handheld control mic and go to the remote mount of the control head…..

Any suggestions would be great!

ThanksView attachment 166249View attachment 166256View attachment 166257
Is there a way that I could plug the control hand mic into the RF deck, this way I would not need the cable, but then I need to figure a way for the speaker to work ?
 

MTS2000des

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You can certainly plug the remote head directly into the brick, but you will still need to make sure your accessory lead is switched properly and connected properly to a switched B+ source or you'll be dealing with a dead car battery in a week or so. Without proper switched ignition, the radio brick never properly "sleeps" and thus draws 1amp or so of juice. Not gonna kill the battery if it's driven daily but leave it for a week and it will run it down.
 

vagrant

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You can certainly plug the remote head directly into the brick, but you will still need to make sure your accessory lead is switched properly and connected properly to a switched B+ source or you'll be dealing with a dead car battery in a week or so. Without proper switched ignition, the radio brick never properly "sleeps" and thus draws 1amp or so of juice. Not gonna kill the battery if it's driven daily but leave it for a week and it will run it down.
Do you mean when the radio is left on, or are you saying it continuously draws 1 Ah of juice when using a remote head and powered off?

I use/prefer my XTL5000 with the W3 control head and the ignition switch line directly connected. It does not suffer that power draw when off. When on it pulls around 0.68 Ah, so I use a Lind Shut Down Timer to protect the battery if I neglect to shut it off. To extend the W3 HHCH from the brick, I just used an old 25 pin computer cable. I also use the W3 HHCH version with my XTS5k VHF/UHF radios in their XTVA's in the shack. Must be the uniformity for me.
 

MTS2000des

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Do you mean when the radio is left on, or are you saying it continuously draws 1 Ah of juice when using a remote head and powered off?

I use/prefer my XTL5000 with the W3 control head and the ignition switch line directly connected. It does not suffer that power draw when off. When on it pulls around 0.68 Ah, so I use a Lind Shut Down Timer to protect the battery if I neglect to shut it off. To extend the W3 HHCH from the brick, I just used an old 25 pin computer cable. I also use the W3 HHCH version with my XTS5k VHF/UHF radios in their XTVA's in the shack. Must be the uniformity for me.
We had 27 XTL5000s with W3s installed in admin and detective cars and were not wired with switched B+, even with the radio turned off, the batteries would drain in about a week or two of sitting (common with detective or pool/admin cars) and had to have them wired correctly, then the parasitic drain ceased.
 
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