Yaesu HAM + Jeep Aux Switches Gremlins

[eightsixeight]

I have a strange problem and looking for some troubleshooting ideas.
I've installed my HAM (Yaesu FTM400DR) and a GMRS (Midland MTX275) to one of my AUX switches, by running a dedicated cable from the auxiliary connectors in by the battery to the them (the Aux switches are an OEM set-up to allow easy installation of various Jeep accessories).

When Jeep key is in the Aux or Run (but engine off), both units run perfectly. However, once I start the engine, the HAM unit goes loco, with its LCD display getting garbage characters and locking up.

I've triple checked all the connectors, I've cleaned the negative connection, even redid some (on the HAM side),, moved the cable to another Aux, but the problem persists.

BTW, I have other things connected to the Aux switches and all work fine.

Any ideas?

 

[tweiss3]

With the car running, what is the voltage at the switch?

 

[AK9R]

Sounds like the radio isn't getting enough voltage. It's also possible that the wiring is picking up some RF hash from the engine while it's running.

Have you poked around the Jeep forums to see what they might say about using these AUX switches to power radios?

 

[eightsixeight]

With the car running, what is the voltage at the switch?

Engine off, 12.2V. Engine on, 14.2V

Sounds like the radio isn't getting enough voltage. It's also possible that the wiring is picking up some RF hash from the engine while it's running.

I have a GMRS radio on the same circuit and works fine. I also have a radar detector on another AUX circuit that's also running OK.

Both radios are in the back of the Jeep, very far from the engine.

Have you poked around the Jeep forums to see what they might say about using these AUX switches to power radios?

Yes, I'm asking anyone that's willing to listen . Nothing back yet.

BTW, this is for a 2024 JL Wrangler.

 

[wrr20891]

I wish I could give you an idea, but I'm running a 10 meter mobile on Aux 1 and a 2 meter mobile on Aux 2 in my Gladiator with no issues. Also have a 2 meter on Aux 2 in the wife's Wrangler with no issues.

Which Aux switches are you using? I went with 1 and 2 due to the higher capacity amperage on those two switches vs what is available for 3 and 4. I also used the wiring harness under the glovebox instead of using the one by the battery in the engine compartment. What year model is your Jeep?

 

[eightsixeight]

I wish I could give you an idea, but I'm running a 10 meter mobile on Aux 1 and a 2 meter mobile on Aux 2 in my Gladiator with no issues. Also have a 2 meter on Aux 2 in the wife's Wrangler with no issues.

Which Aux switches are you using? I went with 1 and 2 due to the higher capacity amperage on those two switches vs what is available for 3 and 4. I also used the wiring harness under the glovebox instead of using the one by the battery in the engine compartment. What year model is your Jeep?

I'm begining to suspect that my trusty Yaesu has some aging issues. Not sure where to begin to troubleshoot it.

I've started with Aux 3, and now it's on Aux 2. This is on a 2024 JL 392.

 

[prcguy]

I've also had several different radios and even 50w RF amps connected to my Jeep Gladiator AUX switches with no problems at all.

 

[WA0CBW]

What are you connecting the negative radio lead to?
Bill

 

[nokones]

The Aux 1 circuit is rated for 40 amps. You can run all your radios on the one circuit. You mentioned in the other forum that you have the radios in the back and you have the radios connected to the aux circuit in the engine compartment. What gauge wire are you running from the front aux connection to the rear? Have you measured the Amp draw on that circuit in the rear at the radio connection?

 

[prcguy]

What are you connecting the negative radio lead to?
Bill

Since the AUX wires were tucked up behind the glove box on the passenger side I sort of remember finding a grounding stud on the transmission hump maybe up near the firewall. Whatever I used was not far from where the AUX wires come out.

 

[eightsixeight]

I think the HAM unit itself just has some gremlins. All electrical works perfect, no blown fuses, etc. Just the Yaesu. This is the old DR unit which I think has some overheating issues which most likely compromised some components.

Unfortunately it is so well tucked away now that I can't pull it out. I can access it, but can't pull it out.

Anyway, now most jeepers are using GMRS, so I'll just use that.

Thanks all.

 

[nokones]

There is a chassis grounding point inside the foot well behind the kick panel.

 

[AK9R]

If you have a 12 volt battery that can power the Yaesu in receive mode, set up that radio on the battery next to the Jeep and start the engine. That might help narrow down whether the noise is due to the radio or the electrical system supplying the radio.

 

[jeepsandradios]

Have multiple jeeps including gladiator. My FTM400 as well as my Midland are both powered from the AUX wires inside the lower panel (not thru a switch just the aux batt and ign). My APX goes direct to batt. I've seen no issues with this install since 2020. For my JK I have horrible interfearance from my LED headlights. When on the FTM is basically useless. Its mostly an off road rig so never really cared.

When you turn on the Glad/JL key the lights go on. Do you ave all factory or did you add any auxillary LED stuff ? That normally seems to be the issue I've seen.

Something to check and try anyway.

 

[OhSixTJ]

Engine off, 12.2V. Engine on, 14.2V

I have a GMRS radio on the same circuit and works fine. I also have a radar detector on another AUX circuit that's also running OK.

Both radios are in the back of the Jeep, very far from the engine.


Yes, I'm asking anyone that's willing to listen . Nothing back yet.

BTW, this is for a 2024 JL Wrangler.

What engine do you have in your JL?

 

[nokones]

Have multiple jeeps including gladiator. My FTM400 as well as my Midland are both powered from the AUX wires inside the lower panel (not thru a switch just the aux batt and ign). My APX goes direct to batt. I've seen no issues with this install since 2020. For my JK I have horrible interfearance from my LED headlights. When on the FTM is basically useless. Its mostly an off road rig so never really cared.

When you turn on the Glad/JL key the lights go on. Do you ave all factory or did you add any auxillary LED stuff ? That normally seems to be the issue I've seen.

Something to check and try anyway.

When I swapped my OEM Halogen Headlamp assembly elements for after-market LED headlamp elements, both headlamp LED Elements came with two in-line little brass boxes. I assume they were either transformers and/or RF noise suppressors. These LED elements were not el cheapo stuff and cost a very pretty penny. I do not have any such interference issues.

I have all my Off-Road lights (Two Forward Light Bars, Ditch Lights, and Rock Lights), CB, Motorola XTL UHF radio (in the very near future a second XTL VHF radio), and my refrigerator wired with the Aux. circuits and grounded to the chassis grounding system. My radios are on the 40-Amp Aux 1 circuit; the two forward Light Bars on the 40-Amp Aux 2 circuit; the Ditch lights on the 15-Amp Aux 3 circuit; and the Rock Lights on the 15-Amp Aux 4 Circuit; and the Refrigerator on the dedicated hot Battery Plus 10-Amp Aux Circuit. My 10-Amp dedicated Ignition-Switched circuit is a spare at this time

Early in my build, I had some interference between the CB Radio and my Motorola XTL High Powered Remote radio when the CB radio was keyed up. After checking the VSWR on both radios, I had less-than-desirable VSWR on my CB Radio across the entire board in the upper twos. What that type of reading, it had to be an antenna grounding issue. In searching for the problem, I discovered that the Firestik Antenna Lug and Quick Disconnect assembly was incorrectly reinstalled by the Jeep Dealer when they installed my Mopar Heady-Duty Spare Tire Carrier Support Bracket. After correcting it, my VSWRs were 1.1:1 to 1.2:2 across the board and the interference between the two radios were eliminated. The point is always check your grounds and use only the factory chassis grounding points on all later vehicles with electronic modules and CAN-Buss system(s).

 

[prcguy]

I have an Icom 706MKIIG, a Yaesu FTM-400DR and a Harris XG-100M in my Jeep JT and swapped out my stock headlights for some higher end Oracle LEDs with switching power supply boxes in the headlight housings and I have no RFI on any band, lights on or off, engine on or off. It’s a very RF quiet truck.

 

[jeepsandradios]

Ya my Glad has good LED lights, my JK has el cheapo chineese $50 headlights....Those are the ones that are throwing noise. My LT is quiet as mouse... litterly...chasing one around inside for last week !

 

[eightsixeight]

After further retrospection, I suspect that the extension cables that I’ve made for the display and for the mic are not shielded and thus are prone to interference when engine is running.

I will use some cat 5 to replace them when I get a chance in the future and see if that solves it.

I’ve also extended the Midland GMRS mic cable and for that one I’ve use a CAT5 cable and got no interference.

The power supply can’t be the issue since the units run perfectly with the engine off, and one, the GMRS, works with the engine on.

 

[eightsixeight]

What engine do you have in your JL?

6.4 V8 - shes’s a 392