majoco
Stirrer
Hi Guys,
Has anyone properly repaired the VR5000 display? It started off with just one vertical line missing and over the course of a year or so lost more and more lines, both vertical and horizonal, and the last straw was when some whole words started to disappear. Not being able to see what was happening when a button was pressed rapidly made the thing into a paperweight. I can control it from a program called FTBCat which works reasonably well but there little or no feedback from the radio to the programme so you don't know if the commands are being interpreted properly. I know it's a pretty slow and limited programming system that Yaesu 'invented' and I can't see any way around it.
I have looked at the innards of the display and the connections are done by a pair of those flimsy elastomeric connectors - having had problems with those things in the past - albeit a lot smaller - I'm hesitant to start playing with this much larger version - I think there's 24 x 2 rows of connections that have to be perfectly lined up and you can't test it until the entire front panel is put back together.
I'm tempted to just sell it off for spares or try to buy another but from reading a lot of reports they all succumb to the same defect. Any assistance would be gratefully received.
Has anyone properly repaired the VR5000 display? It started off with just one vertical line missing and over the course of a year or so lost more and more lines, both vertical and horizonal, and the last straw was when some whole words started to disappear. Not being able to see what was happening when a button was pressed rapidly made the thing into a paperweight. I can control it from a program called FTBCat which works reasonably well but there little or no feedback from the radio to the programme so you don't know if the commands are being interpreted properly. I know it's a pretty slow and limited programming system that Yaesu 'invented' and I can't see any way around it.
I have looked at the innards of the display and the connections are done by a pair of those flimsy elastomeric connectors - having had problems with those things in the past - albeit a lot smaller - I'm hesitant to start playing with this much larger version - I think there's 24 x 2 rows of connections that have to be perfectly lined up and you can't test it until the entire front panel is put back together.
I'm tempted to just sell it off for spares or try to buy another but from reading a lot of reports they all succumb to the same defect. Any assistance would be gratefully received.