2010 Ford Explorer Install

[KG5HHS]

Hello,
I'm needing some help figuring out how to install all of my equipment in my 2010 Ford Explorer XLT. I have a havis console. I have the following equipment:
Trunk mount Motorola Astro Spectra W4 110watt radio w/ remote head
Feniex Storm Pro 100watt Siren
Grill lights X2, Dash Light X1, & Traffic advisor X1
I also have a 600watt amp with 2 10" subwoofers
I plan on controlling the lights and siren via Havis rocker switches (X2 4 slot switch panels) mounted in the console, i also plan on mounting the radio remote head in the console. Im wanting everything to be turned off when i turn the vehicle off. Is there something i can buy that i can just connect one wire to an ignition switch and wire everything up to that?

 

[hitechRadio]

ChargeGuard is the way I would go. http://www.havis.com/data/3-Power Management/Chargeguard/CG-X_NPR_2-12.pdf

 

[mmckenna]

Hello,
Is there something i can buy that i can just connect one wire to an ignition switch and wire everything up to that?

A big relay. Make sure you get one thats specifically rated for "continuous duty" and meets the current requirements. With all that gear, I'd be looking for something like 75 amps or higher.

Personally I use a device like hitech said. You can trigger them off the ignition and many of them have a timer that will keep the gear powered on for a settable amount of time after you turn the ignition off. Mighty handy if you want to use the radio with the ignition off.

 

[sfd119]

ChargeGuard is the way I would go. http://www.havis.com/data/3-Power Management/Chargeguard/CG-X_NPR_2-12.pdf

+1 for ChargeGuard. I use it to turn on everything in my vehicle.

 

[krokus]

A big relay. Make sure you get one thats specifically rated for "continuous duty" and meets the current requirements. With all that gear, I'd be looking for something like 75 amps or higher.

Personally I use a device like hitech said. You can trigger them off the ignition and many of them have a timer that will keep the gear powered on for a settable amount of time after you turn the ignition off. Mighty handy if you want to use the radio with the ignition off.

You could consider running the radio gear off of relay activated by accessory power. That way you could use that gear without the engine running, for short times. (Or the associated excessive drain of having your key to "run" and the engine not running.)

I would leave the lights and amp for the subs running off of a relay activated by ignition power. (Separate relays would be a good idea.)

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[mmckenna]

You could consider running the radio gear off of relay activated by accessory power. That way you could use that gear without the engine running, for short times. (Or the associated excessive drain of having your key to "run" and the engine not running.)

I would leave the lights and amp for the subs running off of a relay activated by ignition power. (Separate relays would be a good idea.)

Sent via Tapatalk

Right, the General Motors vehicles call this "Retained Accessory Power" or R.A.P. It works pretty well for this. I've done this on a number of vehicles. My work truck has this, I tapped off the unused sun roof circuit that was in the "A" pillar. I installed a 3 amp fuse in the "sun roof" slot and I was good to go.

Most Fords have this also, just find a circuit that works and tie into it. My 2011 F15 is set up this way. The retained accessor power triggers the "charge-guard". Charge Guard is used to feed the ignition sense leads on the two radios.

 

[cmdrwill]

The Astro Spectra needs power on the main unit all the time, This retains some settings like last channel, volume, scan lists.

Go with the charge guard for the green and orange leads on the Spectra.

 

[hitechRadio]

One nice thing is you can throw it in a console and not even have an ignition wire. It actually works pretty good in auto detect mode.

Choice of sensing modes: Automatic Detection, Battery Sensing (DC Rise), or Ignition.

You only would have to hook up ground, battery/line positive and out to equipment or load. 3 wires and your done, in auto mode. The relay is capable of 30amp load, sadly the version/s I have it is an open frame relay and not hermetically sealed from dust. It would be easy enough to change out, but Ehhhhh I cant see it from house!!! hehe.

You could also just install a bigger relay off the charge guard for your audio amp,,etc, if the current exceeds 30amps.

 

[KG5HHS]

Thanks for all the replies! They were very helpful. I have decided to go with the charge guard.

 

[12dbsinad]

Since you have the room and a console, what I like to do that makes connections and fusing easier, is to install both switched and hot-all-the-time fuse blocks inside the console. You can run a main feed from the output of the charge guard to a fuseblock, and the input from the charge guard to another fuseblock. This makes adding accessories easier and allows you to fuse each one neat and easily. For stuff that you don't need to fuse over 30 amps, I use BUSS ATC fuseblocks with a built in ground pad. They work well and are relatively cheap. Just food for thought...