2013 Escape

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appalachianscanner

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Could you show us the bracket on the Lido arm that allows mounting of both control heads?

I lied it was 3 bolts on each side of the amps bracket mounted vertically :lol:
I think I may get a large piece of split loom and cover the Velcro'd wires, too many to fit inside the arm's loom..



 

appalachianscanner

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Thanks everyone! I know I got the " Ur crazy for drilling holes in a new vehicle" look from most of my friends lol
 

W9WSS

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Westmont, DuPage County, IL USA
I've yet to own a car, new or old, without at least five, and up to 9 NMO mounts. My "new" 2009 CVPI should be here in a few days. I'll drive it for a few weeks, then it goes to the radio shop for it's mega-install. Complete with no less than 9 NMO's like the previous CVPI.

I bought my wife a brand new 2013 Ford Escape, and she's already asking when I'm going to have the P25 digital trunk-tracking scanner installed!
 

wxviewer

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Mar 7, 2010
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Gloucester County
Very nice install! I have the Titanium model and would like to know how you ran from the interior to the battery. Any pictures would be helpful! Thanks!
7 3
Bob-WX2I
 

appalachianscanner

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Added
LNA Preamp - Broadband Preamplifier for Seti Scanner Radio Astronomy Hamradio LNA 3000 | eBay
Red Map Lights - Nano Spot - Miniature Spotlights: Lighting: LED Lighting: Nano Spot - Mini Spotlights - FrightProps.com
Hardwired GPS power source
Heatsink on Premap

(Preamp Really helps with WVSIRN, VIPER, and STARS while mobile)


Silicone conductive paste between the heat sink and LNA.



Looks like I overtightened it a bit but it was already slightly warped, using an infrared thermometer the prepamp went from a balmy 103 degrees to just 6 degrees over the ambient temperature....so about 20 degrees difference! since connected via a double SMA male connector vs a jumper, the heat is also being displaced from the scanner. Heatsink was harvested from an old cpu motherboard.


Switch to the right controls the amplified speaker and the preamp..
The preamp's dont come supplied with a pigtail for attaching power so you'll need to solder some leads on. I used heatshrink tubing and hot glue before some friction tape and a quick coating of splice tape. Splice tape's low on adhesive so it wont be messy years later (melt).



2 Sided 3M Velcro was the best removable adhesive I could surmise, Also gave additional height to give more angle of movement.





Used a lighter socket to power the GPS from the harness, kept everything disconnectable so it can be later upgrade or modified without having to work inside the vehicle.

 

appalachianscanner

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Tapped it

Added a Discriminator tap, short pigtail of shielded audio cable to an audio jack for easy PC hookup with DSDPlus. All tucked away in the center arm rest console still, its almost the the level of Frankenstein lol

Disc tap was easy but super tiny soldering, spaced gold test pads still easier than tacking onto an IC leg..plenty of hot glue to hold everything redundant (since mobile) and further insulate the itty bitty wire that didnt fare well soldered. Used a 100K Ohm resistor and decode results are clean :)

There was actually room to do a jack on the vertical side (opposite the power and data), I drilled my access hole the same size as the standard radio shack audio jacks ones so maybe one day on a rainy day ill spiff it up...till then its just a cable out the hole with some glue. Need to do the speaker fix as well so there's definitely a project one day down the road.
 

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appalachianscanner

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Added a new amplified speaker, fits perfectly under the passenger seat positioned front left under the seat....controls on the speaker can be reached from the driver's seat (volume, on-off, noise-blanker switch) --


Installation: One zip tie in the supplied bracket center hole then folded the bracket up against the tubular seat frame and secured with two additional zip ties around each of the adjustment nuts and the tubular seat frame

Vibration insulated the speaker from the seat frame with adhesive backed felt , doubled it up to give extra padding, some two sided 3m foam tape would also work great here...seat operation is completely functional and there is a clip-in plastic bracket that aids as a standoff mount for a ABS sensor wire that makes a perfect shelf to stash the excess speaker and power wire.
 

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KB0VWG

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Apr 9, 2006
Messages
535
Location
Lyford, Texas
Me too

Its the basic included AMPS plate snapped in vertically, The bracket for the RH96 is mounted to one side of the snap slot using 4 small bolts, the Yaesu head is on the other (bottom) on 4 longer bolts. I used longer bolts with a nut behind the remote head bracket and on both sides of the AMPS plate (x 4) to stand off and keep both units relatively uniform as they are different depths. Ill try to get another pic for ya.

I would also like to see a picture of that as well. I have one but with a ft-7900 head mounted on it only.
kb0vwg
wqoi992
 

mnrick

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Sep 10, 2009
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Minnesota
Nice set-up. I just got rid of a 14 Escape that I had, it was a OK car but not enough space for us, particularly around the front seats/center console.
 
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