2014 Explorer Equipment Powering Suggestions

[Maddawg1787]

I am looking for some suggestions on how to power my equipment in my 14 Explorer (Limited). I have a BC396T with a small laptop to control it and a small dash cam powered by cigarette lighter. Currently the dash cam is powered by the cig lighter plug in front of the gear shift and has to be plugged in/out every time as the cig lighter plugs in Fords are constantly hot. The laptop is mounted with a No Drill Ram Mount and is currently powered by the regular 2 prong plug on the back of the center console. The 396T is ran off batteries for now but depending on where I go next will depend on what I order. I don't know wether to get a cig lighter plug for it or the hard wire kit. I also eventually plan to add a remote head that I have to replace the laptop and will need to power that as well.

I would like everything to be powered on with vehicle start and powered off with vehicle shut off.

I already have power and ground ran inside the vehicle for a stereo system. The amp for the stereo is located below the driver's seat. I am not sure if I can tie into that somehow. I am also unsure if I can incorporate the remote wire that turns on/off the amp on ignition on/off to assist in powering my other equipment on/off.

From browsing other installs and such I have found the following products.

West Mountain Radio - RIGrunner 4004 USB
APO3: Automatic Power Off 3 (bare wire leads) - Off Grid Options

Those products appear they will get the job done but I would like to know there is not a better and cheaper way to do it before I spend the money on these. I also do not know if the RIGrunner is able to power the laptop if I splice the wire.

Hope that all makes sense. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.

 

[sfd119]

I would ditch the APO3 and go with a Haavis Charge Guard. You won't need a remote wire to "tell" the Charge Guard when to turn on / off. Also the Charge Guard has surge / low voltage protection.

As for the Rig Runner, I have one in my truck that works great.

 

[SCPD]

He should be able to the power wire for the stereo amp without any problems correct?

After all that's a thick power wire coming from the battery.

 

[sfd119]

He should be able to the power wire for the stereo amp without any problems correct?

After all that's a thick power wire coming from the battery.

I do not know what gauge wire coming from the front is, nor do I know if OP plans on using it for both so I can't really comment one way or another.

 

[madrabbitt]

You really want to get the laptop off the inverter.
A lot of power and efficiency lost changing low voltage dc to high voltage ac and back down.
Best choice is locating a 12 volt adapter for your laptop while you're at it.

 

[SCPD]

Stereo amp power cable is really Thick... Not sure what size either 8 or 10 gauge..

I think if he just splices into that cable then fusing correctly it should be OK.

 

[WA0CBW]

Don't forget that the 396 runs on 6 volts. You will need a 12 to 6 volt adapter.
BB

 

[SCPD]

My bad... I was thinking of an amateur radio. Those run straight from the battery with a Fuze for safety.

 

[SCPD]

That's how I'm planning on running my wires to my Kenwood 71a

 

[mmckenna]

I'd be cautious about tapping into other wiring, especially for an amplifier.
The amplifier can pull varying amounts of current depending on the volume level. This might lead to variations in the voltage and could negatively affect your scanner and camera. Also, unless you know for sure you have capacity to spare on the existing cable, you would need to be careful about adding loads to it.

If you really want to be sure, run a new power feed from the battery for your radio gear. If your future plans are to add any additional radios, especially ones that transmit, you'd be much better off doing this now.
Without knowing exactly how much current you would be using, no one can recommend a cable/fuse size accurately.

I'd really recommend figuring out how much current you need, including any future needs, and sizing accordingly. Run a new dedicated positive lead from the battery. Fuse with an appropriate sized fuse AT THE BATTERY and run to a terminal block inside the vehicle. Run a negative/ground from the body (not the battery) to the same location. From that interior distribution block, power your equipment through individual fuses.

Providing clean power can help reduce interference on your scanner. Tapping off existing circuits can be problematic.

 

[madrabbitt]

...

I'd really recommend figuring out how much current you need, including any future needs, and sizing accordingly. Run a new dedicated positive lead from the battery. Fuse with an appropriate sized fuse AT THE BATTERY and run to a terminal block inside the vehicle. Run a negative/ground from the body (not the battery) to the same location. From that interior distribution block, power your equipment through individual fuses.
...

Thats exactly what i'd do. I like fusing at the battery and directly inside the vehicle in the event of a short, but bringing a single large power wire to a block you can wire off of does not take much time, and it makes things easier in the future.

 

[Maddawg1787]

I would ditch the APO3 and go with a Haavis Charge Guard. You won't need a remote wire to "tell" the Charge Guard when to turn on / off. Also the Charge Guard has surge / low voltage protection.

As for the Rig Runner, I have one in my truck that works great.

The APO3 doesn't need a remote wire either. The APO3 and the Haavis Charge Guard appear to do the same exact thing. Only difference is the price and the APO3 is 40 bucks cheaper. The remote wire comment was more about seeing if I could use that wire somewhere and not need something like the AOP3.

 

[Maddawg1787]

I'd be cautious about tapping into other wiring, especially for an amplifier.
The amplifier can pull varying amounts of current depending on the volume level. This might lead to variations in the voltage and could negatively affect your scanner and camera. Also, unless you know for sure you have capacity to spare on the existing cable, you would need to be careful about adding loads to it.

If you really want to be sure, run a new power feed from the battery for your radio gear. If your future plans are to add any additional radios, especially ones that transmit, you'd be much better off doing this now.
Without knowing exactly how much current you would be using, no one can recommend a cable/fuse size accurately.

I'd really recommend figuring out how much current you need, including any future needs, and sizing accordingly. Run a new dedicated positive lead from the battery. Fuse with an appropriate sized fuse AT THE BATTERY and run to a terminal block inside the vehicle. Run a negative/ground from the body (not the battery) to the same location. From that interior distribution block, power your equipment through individual fuses.

Providing clean power can help reduce interference on your scanner. Tapping off existing circuits can be problematic.

Thanks for all that info. I will look into this further as it will probably be the best option.

 

[SCPD]

Thanks for for setting me straight . McKenna! ... I never really thought of loads from a stereo amp..I'll make sure to just run a new power wire with a fuse at the battery.

Thanks again..

 

[Maddawg1787]

Here is the finished product for anyone that helped me with this. I did follow mmckenna's suggestion and ran completely new fused power from the battery to the inside. I also added some new or different items from my original post here.

Thanks for all the help!

http://forums.radioreference.com/pi...16539-2014-ford-explorer-limited-install.html

 

[mmckenna]

That looks good.
Any power issues?

 

[Maddawg1787]

That looks good.
Any power issues?

Not yet. Just got it all done tonight. Everything works as desired.

 

[mmckenna]

Sweet. Glad to hear it.