2018 Ford F150

[mmckenna]

I've always preferred dedicated antennas for each band. Diplexers add a bit of loss, plus extra connections. Put a 1/4 wave VHF and a 1/4 wave UHF up there and it would be pretty low profile and work well. If you don't have a sun roof, you've got plenty of real estate up there.

If you don't plan on using the CB that much, then put it up on the roof also. When you are not using it, just remove it and put an NMO rain cap over it. Would look a lot cleaner, in my opinion, then having a bracket NMO sticking off the hood.

While I was at it, I'd stick the scanner antenna up there also. You've got plenty of room, and you'll be routing cable anyway. It's much easier to route the coax from a permanent mount than from an exterior mount, under the truck and back up into the cab. Plus, you'd have to go with a well sealed NMO mount, like the NMO-HF's with good sealing if the underside is going to be exposed to the environment. Most NMO mounts are designed to be installed through the roof and the underside where the coax is connected well protected from the elements.
Anyway, the antenna will be happier with a ground plane under it.

 

[KG5HHS]

I have started the process of mounting everything. I copied mmckenna idea of using the strut channel. There is only about 5 inches available at the bottom and narrows going up.

Up to this point I have had no problems. I am now having an issue with the XTL5000 radio and mount. The back rest will go back up and lock into place. However, The back seat will not lift up all the way and lock, It stops about 3/4 of the way up. I can force it and it will lock into place, but I don't think that's a very good idea. I'm not really sure what to do as far as where else to mount this radio. It's pretty large. Under the front seats wont work due to the size and I don't want to mount it under the back seat as I frequently lift it up and store multiple bags when going to work.


The other issue is that the XTL5000 is right up against the back rest. I'm not sure if this will cause an issue with the radio becoming hot.

These radio's are not hooked up at this point as I am just trying to figure out the mounting part at this time. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mmckenna]

Well, you could gain 3/4" if you switched from plywood to metal. I used some metal brackets and mounted the radio mounting brackets to them. Drilling the holes in the right place let me move the RF decks as far back against the back wall as I could. You might be able to gain an inch or so. I only have a CDM-1550 RF deck back there on mine, and there's enough room. Moving the XTL deck back and inch or so might be enough. Never had clearance issues with mine.

Also, pay real close attention to cable routing. I know it's still work in progress, but make sure none of the cables get in between the seat back and the radio RF decks.

 

[KG5HHS]

Good point on the cables! I will definitely keep an eye out. As far as metal goes, I wouldn't know the first thing about where to start or where to get it. Unless it came as the exact piece I needed, I wouldn't be able to do any fabricating.

 

[mmckenna]

Good point on the cables! I will definitely keep an eye out. As far as metal goes, I wouldn't know the first thing about where to start or where to get it. Unless it came as the exact piece I needed, I wouldn't be able to do any fabricating.

Yeah, I happened to have a piece in my junk stock that I was able to use. I think it was a mounting bracket from a piece of rack mount equipment.

You could probably get a shop to bend up a piece of aluminum, maybe 3/16 or 1/4" thick pretty cheap. They may have a piece of scrap about the right size they'd make you a deal on. Aluminum is easy to cut/drill/tap/bend. Just put your mounts on, drill the hole and use a locknut. Plus it would be a great grounding point.

 

[KG5HHS]

I was able to find a local company that could cut and bend me a piece of 12ga sheet metal. It fits perfectly! I still have to mount the STL Vireo, Havis ChargeGuard, and the positive/negative distribution blocks. My tentative plan is to mount everything (So I know it fits). I will continue with the inside, mounting all equipment, Then move to the outside, Mounting lights/sirens and antenna's. Then run all cables/coax and lastly make the connections. I know running the cables and making the connections will take the longest. I am still searching for a manual or information on how to disassemble the center console where all the control heads (4 total) and speakers will be.

 

[mmckenna]

Very nice.
Maybe hit it with a can of primer and a coat of paint before you settle it all in place.

 

[halftime]

For small quantities, Amazon. But make sure you get the SAE-J1127 rated stuff. It's got the right jacket for automotive use, will resist oil/gas and is a very fine strand so it flexes easily. You can select from various lengths here:

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-WC0474-40-Welding-Battery-Copper/dp/B01JMNK1LS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Temco+6+gauge+wire&qid=1578435597&sr=8-3

Proper crimp lugs and heat shrink are the way to go. Get the marine grade heat shrink, it has a hot melt adhesive on the inside that seals the connection really well. Also works as a nice strain relief.

I spent a good part of January online working through this as well. BatterycablesUSA has the good jacket, crimps, and heat shrink. Cable can be ordered in specific lengths as well.

I appreciate all the discussion for the installs. A lot of good tweaks to consider. I'm waiting for a day of good, warm weather to run the wires and cables in a similar truck. @mmckenna thank you for the idea of the unistrut behind the seat idea. I included a switch to go either relay (switched) or direct to battery, USB charger, and Anderson Power Poles (connections on right side). The tough to see picture on the right is the clearance once installed. I welded an 1/8" plate to the strut for the support.

 

[halftime]

I am still searching for a manual or information on how to disassemble the center console where all the control heads (4 total) and speakers will be.

Did you find information on how to disassemble the center console?

 

[KG5HHS]

Did you find information on how to disassemble the center console?

Yes I did. I found a youtube video that showed how to remove the chrome pieces and from there, I just figured it out.

 

[KG5HHS]

It took a couple of weeks from start to finish, but I am now finished with most of this project. all wires have been ran and most of the lights are installed as well. I am just lacking the lights that go one the side (in between the cab and running board) for side warning. I am pretty happy with how everything has came out to this point.

I decided to use 12ga sheet metal that was cut and bent mounted to a piece of Unistrut to mount on to the existing bolts. Its not as clean as I would like it but given the space I had, This is what I came up with. All the wires are zip tied together to try to keep them as neat as possible. I have the charge guard that is connected via a fuse from the battery. I have everything ran through the charge guard (Except the main power for the VHF and UHF radio) Everything shuts down when I turn the vehicle off.


The XTL5000 is used for monitoring public safety, I also have the ability to transmit for the counties I work for. It is also used for VHF analog and P25 amateur radio. The XPR5550 is used for UHF analog and DMR amateur radio. The BCD436HP is used to monitor aviation mostly but I also have it programmed for most places I travel. The STL Light/Siren controller is fully functional. Once all lights are installed I will have Red/White lights in the front and both side, and only red lights in the rear. I will rarely use them as I am at the station 99% of the time that I am working, but in the rare occasion that I am not, I will have the ability to respond to calls.

 

[K4RBT]

You can get cut lengths of any size marine grade wire from West marine. I buy the lugs with the soft melt heatshrink attached. Easies to control when using a heat gun. I used to wait until I went to Richmond to go to the store there, but now days just order on line.

 

[n0xvz]

I was able to find a local company that could cut and bend me a piece of 12ga sheet metal.

I'm revisiting this thread for my own install in my 2018 F-250. Who did you use for the sheet metal? I'm probably only needing a piece as wide as two of the seat bolts since I'm only installing one radio.